Any thoughts on pressing on square taper type cranks as mentioned on
Unicycle Source’s page? Would you still put the 25-30 ft-lbs of torque on
the nuts after pressing them?
Seems the consensus is for Loctite Red on the tapers, and blue on the
retainer nut?
Says Joe Stoltzfus (known as Joe from Idaho), “My crank problems seem to
have disappeared. I have always had crank problems because I weigh 225 lbs
on a light day, and I jump and ride down mountains. I could expect a set
of new cranks on a new hub to be wobbly in one month, but I have been
riding hard on the new 175 mm Black Widow cranks for two months with no
sign of any loosening. They feel just as solid as the day I put them
on.*** I pressed them into place with a homemade press. ***I think the odd
orientation of the tapered seat may help. These are long cranks on a 3 by
26 in. wheel.”
George Barnes IV wrote: > > Hi all, > > Any thoughts on pressing on square taper type cranks as mentioned on > Unicycle Source’s page? Would you still put the 25-30 ft-lbs of torque > on the nuts after pressing them? > > Seems the consensus is for Loctite Red on the tapers, and blue on the > retainer nut? > > << paste from http://www.unicyclesource.com/Odyssey17248.html >> > > Says Joe Stoltzfus (known as Joe from Idaho), "My crank problems seem to > have disappeared. I have always had crank problems because I weigh 225 > lbs on a light day, and I jump and ride down mountains. I could expect a > set of new cranks on a new hub to be wobbly in one month, but I have > been riding hard on the new 175 mm Black Widow cranks for two months > with no sign of any loosening. They feel just as solid as the day I put > them on.*** I pressed them into place with a homemade press. ***I think > the odd orientation of the tapered seat may help. These are long cranks > on a 3 by 26 in. wheel." > > George C. Barnes IV President, ISU Unicycling Club > http://www.public.iastate.edu/~gbarnes/
I have used Loctite sleeve retainer (the stuff used to secure bearings on
the axle) on the taper and red Loctite on the nut. Red on the taper would
also probably work just as well.
I use a wooden block and a rubber mallet to crank on securely. Just tap
with the mallet, don’t bang on it like a sledge hammer. Then I tighten the
nut, but I have no idea how much torque.
It helps to make sure the taper, nut and threads are all clean of dirt,
grease and other goo before assemling everything with Loctite.
That has worked for me.
Or you can skip the Loctite on the taper and just use grease.
john_childs
>From: “George Barnes IV” <gbarnes@iastate.edu> Reply-To: "George Barnes >IV" <gbarnes@iastate.edu> To: unicycling@winternet.com Subject: crank >questions Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 21:57:27 -0500 > >Hi all, > >Any thoughts on pressing on square taper type cranks as mentioned on >Unicycle Source’s page? Would you still put the 25-30 ft-lbs of torque on >the nuts after pressing them? > >Seems the consensus is for Loctite Red on the tapers, and blue on the >retainer nut?