Clicking noise on KH24

Have had this uni for 6 weeks and cannot figure out where the noise comes from. Its is louder when I really push on pedals, just cruising lightly… no sound. I have replaced pedals, tightened and loosened spokes and tightened and loosened the bearing mounts. When I first got this uni I had issues with the wheel being not centered and had it trued at a LBS. I have tried everything I can think of and still the clicking remains. Any more ideas out there… anyone else have this problem? HELP!!!

I had an klicking noise at my K1 devil then i removed the frame and noticed that the bearings were totally broken.
Maybe it are just your pants which hit the frame or ur shoes at the crank.

You didn’t mention tightening cranks?

Check your seat, make sure all bolts are tight and Seatpost clamp.

Make sure all your spokes have similar tension.

A noise like that can come from almost anywhere and can be hard to pinpoint.

Also shoelaces have been known to ‘click’ against cranks.

No shoe laces on shoes… wearing shorts… spokes all relatively same tension…seatpost tight… cranks tight… will look at bearings

Terry (muniadict) had a similar problem with his new KH36. Perhaps your bearings aren’t seating all the way in your frame?

I’d start with the cranks. classic clicky. then lube the post, check seat nuts, he’s checked everything else. the bearings shouldn’t be dead after 6 weeks. he’s in break in period… crank bolts is my guess.

Most likely crank bolts. Sometimes you need to remove the cranks, clean the mating surfaces, lightly grease and then refit.

On the other hand, my 700c sometimes makes ticking noises in certain weather conditions. Combination of temperature and humidity changes the tension on the spokes, and does somethign to the friction where they cross.

If you can’t feel anything happening and can only hear it, it won’t be doing any harm.

Final thought: is it your knees?:wink:

My votes is on cranks if it’s not the bearing holders. It was my first thought when you said it happens when you push harder. Six weeks is about right for the cranks needing a tightening.

Can out get the sound to happen when you’re off the unicycle? Often that will help you figure out where it’s coming from.

Not THAT old… Took everything apart today (again) including pulling the cranks. Cleaned all, greased what needed, and put all back together, and STILL the clicking remain. Cannot be felt, can’t find the noise statically. Really beginning to piss me off.

KH29 Clicking

There have been a few others who experienced this, I was one of them.

Get a small candle or piece of wax and rub it in the crossing of the spokes, where each one makes an x. The noise is caused by the spokes as they rub and the spokes flex. I might try this before you disassemble the whole uni. It worked on mine and never needed to be repeated.

Carey

You might try stress relieving the spokes.

Check Here:

under the section

“Seating and Stress Relieving the Spokes”

I did that with my KH 24 some time ago. I think it helped, but it was a long time ago.

Scott

stress relieving the spokes doesn’t take 6 weeks…

spokes would make a ping noise, cranks would creak… try swapping out the pedals?

So after all is said… still no luck… pedals - no (switched and switched back). stress relieve - no no change. wax on spokes - no no change. I swear I got the biggest lemon KH… Looked forward to it for a LONG time saved up the big bucks and not one but TWO problems with it. NONE on my SIX other unis ( Coker, Koxx, Sun and UDC brands). Really wondering if the expense was worth it.

Kris is a good man and stands behind his product… I am sure he’d at least try to right a bad situation…

Kal, its not time to go there. A click does not a lemon make. If you got six other unis you have time to figure out what is wrong with this one. I know its tough when you got a new toy and want to play with it.

First off I have to ask did you buy the uni new? I don’t see anywhere where you say anything about contacting the dealer.

Did the click start right form the beginning or develop over time.

Is everything on the uni brand new? or did you already have cranks or pedals anything like that.

Im really starting to lean towards your bearings. What have you done to check the bearings?

How is the fit of the bearing in the holders? Can you move the bearing on the axle with your hand? Can you wiggle the wheel while its mounted in the frame. Twisting and pulling in ways to check for free play in the bearing interface.

Try riding with the bearing holders looser or tighter than you normally keep them. See if it changes the problem.

When you cleaned and reinstalled your cranks did you check for any galling of the metal. Any spots that are shinier than others? Any sign of metal on metal movement?

What method do you use to R&R your cranks. Do you bash them on or just use the crank bolt to pull them down.

What if you stand on the pedals and bounce up and down, anything? What about standing on one pedal? And holding the seat out away from you.

Is the sound once per revolution or multiple times a revolution?
Is the issue getting worse getting better or staying the same?

Iffn it was me I would sit on the ground with the wheel pulled into my chest and using my arms and legs to hold the wheel, pull the cranks (with the pedals off) forwards and backwards to see if there is any play. Do the same thing with the wheel out of the frame. Kind of twist and move the cranks as best you can to again check for any free play.

With the wheel in the frame grab the tire/rim and push pull it every which way you can to find freeplay.

If you have tried some of this I apologize I can only go by what you have put in your posts. You haven’t given a lot of detail about exactly what you checked for or how you checked.

I can stand on my uni above the seat and pedal… Turns are a bitch… BUT what I am getting at is, my uni got quiet when I did this… It’s something inside my seat or seat post or other weight bearing device…
By standing I ruled out the rim, cranks, hub, bearings, and so on… Try atleast taking weight off the seat a bit at a time while your riding.

I know the lemon remark was maybe a bit harsh… just frustrated. The uni was/is all new. Noise was there from start, but had wheel alignment issues to begin with and dealt with UDC to fix (had wheel trued at LBS) Have thought of every way to try and track down the noise. On uni, off uni. Hopping the noise is there. Multiple clicks per revolution. Cranks look good (used an isis crank puller to remove and mallet to seat back on). Hub looks good, bearings are fine. I am a machinist and mechanical repairman by trade so its frustrating to me to not figure it out. One thing I found out today was that as I rode it more it seemed to get quieter. I have not contacted UDC or KHU, because I thought it would be an easy fix, but have dug and dug to no avail. With todays news of quieter, I am hopeful that maybe it is something wearing in?? I will update in a couple days to see if its getting better or staying the same. Finally getting some decent weather in Kalamazoo to really ride. Thanx for everyones advice and opinions

Kalamazuni,

My KH 29 also makes noise and it is irritating. I think that some of the creaking noise may come from the adjustable seat. Can you switch the seat with another unicycle and see if the noise goes away? I have cranked my seat adjustment bolts really tight and it seems to help. I have noticed that if the seat bumper bolt are loose it makes noise when I pull up on it.

If I idle there is enough flex in the system that one of the magura brake pads rubs. This problem shows up on a 29" but not a 24". I have cranked down the bearing holders tight, and I need to keep checking them because they will work loose. I may need to adjust the brake pad out to avoid it–The wheel is tight and trued up and I don’t see anywhere else I can adjust it to remove flex.

I would be happier if on assembly there was no obvious flexing, creaking and clicking. There are large forces applied to it when riding, and that is certainly be part of the problem. I may downgrade to a cheap fixed seat post and use it instead. Both the adjustable seat post and the bearing clamps appear to be weak points in the structure.