Cheap Unicycles: What to watch out for, and what to get next?

General
1

I have now had my cheap, Taiwanese unicycle for about 3 1/2 weeks. It cost
me $AUS120.

When I looked for a first unicycle, I realised that the cheap ones were going to
be of lower quality. However, I took that risk, because I didn’t want to pay
twice as much for the next model up, or five times as much for a high quality
unicycle, and then discover I couldn’t unicycle or I didn’t enjoy it. I also
planned to share the unicycle, and did not want to get a unicycle that was so
expensive that I was afraid to let others use it.

Therefore, I can’t complain when things go wrong with it, and, indeed, I have no
bad feelings towards it or the manufacturers.

However, I think it is worth outlining the problems I have had for two reasons.
The first is as a warning to other first time buyers; this is what you should
look out for. (Maybe some comments could be added to the FAQ?)

The other reason is that I am looking for assurance from more experienced
unicycle owners that the more expensive unicycles don’t suffer from the
same problems.

  • The Tyre: My tyre is rated at 32 psi which is too soft. As suggested in the
    FAQ, look for a higher presser tyre.

  • The wheel/spokes: Either the spokes were loose which allowed the wheel to
    buckle, or the wheel buckled which has since made the spokes loose. So far, I
    don’t think it is affecting my ride, but there are definite kinks in the
    wheel. Perhaps it has just been ill-treated; many first-timers have been
    giving it a go. Have other people had similar trouble?

  • The “quick-release” clamp for adjusting the height broke quickly, and was
    replaced free of charge by the bike shop that sold me the unicycle.

  • The adjustable shaft is not tall enough for me (5’11"), let alone some of my
    friends (up to 6’3"). My height is not extreme; “tall” aspiring unicyclists
    should be careful that their unicycle can be adjusted high enough.

I assume that it is possible to get standard unicycles with longer shafts
attached to the seat to suit taller people, without having to resort to the
expensive “custom” models. Is this correct?

  • The seat has been the most serious problem. It was fine initially, but after
    being dropped innumerable times, the protective bar across the front and back
    has been deformed so much, that is of no use. The concave curve of the seat
    has become more and more curved. Now it is almost unrideable (by an adult
    male, anyway).

I am left with the choice of looking for a new seat (One person tells me he
bought one for $AUS25; that’s 20% of the total uni cost that needs replacing
each month), or just writing the uni off, and buying a more expensive one (this
time with a higher seat, harder tyres, and maybe a bigger wheel) - it is only a
matter of time before I “outgrow” this unicycle anyway.

Having said that, this time I would like some expert advice BEFORE I fork out my
cash on a new unicycle.

How can I tell by looking what a good unicycle is?

Even harder, how I can I tell through a mail order catalogue?

>From the catalogues I have collected, I could buy any of the following
standard unicycles :

Miyata Flamingo (from $AUS275) Miyata Flamingo Expert (from $AUS415) Semcycle XL
(from $AUS325) Semcycle Pro (from $AUS485) Pave’ ???

Can anyone comment on these? I strongly suspect the more expensive models are
genuinely better quality, but I would need strong convincing before I outlaid
$485 on a “seat on a pole on a wheel”.

Sorry for the long ramble. I would appreciate any advice people can give me to
get a longer lasting, better value unicycle next time.

Regards

Julian

– Julian Orbach (julian@cs.uq.oz.au) – University of Queensland,
Brisbane, Australia

2

Re: Cheap Unicycles: What to watch out for, and what to get next?

The question, “What unicycle to get?”, may be answered by asking, “What do the
world’s best unicyclists use?” Secondly, what less expensive options or model
can the rest of us use?

Answer to the first question:

Every world champion unicyclist thus far, has used a Miyata Deluxe (Expert as
Julian mentioned it) or Miyata Regular as the standard unicycle in their
winning routine.

Most of them did have the head tube lengthened so they could use a short seat
post without the need for extension tubes. (A lot of the taller people would
have had to use two of the extension tubes.)

A custom bicycle shop can extend the head tube for about $50 US. The frame can
be custom painted for an additional $40 US approximately. (Most world class
unicyclists have their frame chromed plated after the head tube extension, which
costs approximately $200 US, provided a chrome plater can be found who will do a
quality job for that price.)

World class unicyclists who use a Miyata Regular, usually replace the 28 hole
rim with a 36 hole or more, chrome alloy rim for increased strength and beauty.
Some also replace the .080 (14 gauge) spokes with thicker .105 (12 gauge) spokes
or even thicker, again for added strength. (The replacement spokes are usually
chrome for flashiness.)

Some world class unicyclists bolt an aluminum plate on top of the plastic seat
under the foam and seat cover, or do something else to strengthen the seat for
the unusual stress placed on it by some particularly difficult skills, in which
most of the rider’s weight is placed on the front and back of the seat via the
hands and arms.

A less expensive option:

Rather than extend the head tube, the seat post can be extended. A good machine
shop can easily weld an extension to the seat post and maybe even grind the weld
down smooth for around $20 US. If the person who does the welding isn’t just
learning to do it, the weld, even when ground down smooth will be actually
stronger (heat treated to some degree) than the rest of the seat post. The
finished seat post can be painted with a reflective chrome finish paint (or any
color) or chrome plated (expensive). This is significantly better than dealing
with an (removable) extension tube or two.

These extra long seat posts may be available, ready made, from The Unicycle
Factory. Please see the FAQ for The Unicycle Factory’s phone and address.
(Available via ftp.mcs.kent.edu or http://nimitz.mcs.kent.edu/~bkonarsk/.)

The least expensive option:

Buy the Miyata Regular - painted frame. They keep improving it so fast, that
further description may be inaccurate (beyond “painted frame”).

Get a second seat post extension with the cycle if you may need it.

Absolutely no need to modify this unicycle as described above. Well maintained,
this cycle should last a lifetime (20 or more years) of normal use. (Of course
the tire may need periodic replacement. The (unmodified) seat will last a
lifetime, unless certain very advanced figures are performed on the cycle as
mentioned above.

Stay on Top,

Ken Fuchs <kfuchs@winternet.com

3

Re: Cheap Unicycles: What to watch out for, and what to get next?

The Semcycle XL (rigid, tubular frame) may be similar in quality to the Miyata
Regular (painted frame), but the XL doesn’t have the “superior” quality,
“unbreakable”, hub that the flexible, “top of the line” Semcycle has. The XL may
also have a chromed frame.

Try comparing what the Semcycle XL and Miyata Regular each have: (Each set of
part types [a-d] are listed in increasing order of quality or beauty [chrome
types]. Anyone in a bike shop should be able to explain the following
terminology. This checklist was designed to compare other unicycles as well.)

   ) Type of tire - One can always buy a better tire, although a high
        quality unicycle should come with a unicycle tire (round
        cross-section; relatively flat or smooth tread for flat
       surfaces [mountain unicycles should come with knobbies :^]

1.1 Type of rim
a) chromed steel
b) chromed tubular steel
c) alloy
d) chromed alloy

1.2 Type of spoke holes in rim
a) simple straight radial hole
b) simple straight radial hole with recess for spoke’s nipple
c) angle of holes matches angle of spokes
d) angle of holes matches angle of spokes; recess for nipple

2.1 Number of spokes (more is better, if all spokes are kept tight)
a) 28
b) 36
c) 40
d) 48

2.2 Thickness of spokes (thicker is better, but weighs a little more)
a) .080 in. (14 gauge)
b) .092 in. (13 gauge)
c) .105 in. (12 gauge)
d) .125 in. (?? gauge)

2.3 Spoking pattern
a) 3 cross
b) 4 cross
c) 3 cross interleaved
d) 4 cross interleaved

2.4 Spoke material
a) coat hanger :^>
b) normal (steel zinc plated)
c) stainless steel
d) steel chrome plated

3.1 Hub (Various types of heat treating add to the confusion here.)
a) cottered shaft, straight flanges
b) cottered shaft, dished flanges
c) cotterless shaft, straight flanges
d) cotterless shaft, dished flanges

4.1 Bearings (More info welcome here.)
a) unsealed roller bearings
b) unsealed ball bearings
c) sealed roller bearings (less prone to damage when jumping)
d) sealed ball bearings (jumping may cause flat spots on balls)

5.1 Bearing holders
a) bolted on C-bracket (may apply excessive vertical force)
b) snap ring (bearing may be minutely loose in all directions)
c) pressed in holder (bearing must be pressed in with equal force)
d) bolted on pressed in holder (same as c above, except the pressed fit may
be looser as bolts keep bearing from moving.)

5.2 Frame type (Which is better is quite controversial.)
a) flat pressed fork halves bolted together with seat post
b) same as a) with curved sections pressed in for greater rigidity
c) tubular one piece frame with rounded fork crown
d) tubular one piece frame with square fork crown (to put feet on)

5.3 Frame finish
a) amateur spray painted ;^)
b) baked-on enamel
c) powder coated
d) chrome plated

5.4 Seat post clamp
Z) A bolt for split forks
Z) welded on clamp with single bolt
Z) separate BMX type clamp with single allen wrench screw
Z) separate BMX type clamp with two allen wrench screws
Z) same as c), except one screw clamps top of head tube and the other
clamps around the seat post - two inside diameters

6.1 Seat post
a) has holes at 1 inch increments for height adjustment
b) same as a) with seat tilt adjustment
c) straight tube with no holes - very fine height adjustment
d) same as c) with seat tilt adjustment (not really needed)

7.1 Seat (style should fit the individual)
a) poorly designed - self destructs in 1 month of use
b) Schwinn / Semcycle design (does it have bumpers now?)
c) Wide Miyata type design without front handle
d) Narrow Miyata type design with front handle

7.2 Seat should be broken down further, but the author is getting tired and
sleepy [ 8^) -> :^O zzz -> 8^| -> :^O zzz -> 8^( ]

8.1 Crank arms
a) solid oak [ :^O -> :^o -> :^O ] author lapses into dream land (be
careful, the author seems to be getting cranky too :^)
b) steel cottered
c) steel cotterless
d) alloy cotterless

9.1 Pedals
a) rubber block, no spindle adjustment
b) plastic, no spindle adjustment
c) rattrap with spindle adjustment (eats shins 8^)
d) plastic with spindle adjustment

I thought unicycles were simple. Sigh.

Hope this is of some value to a few of you fellow unicyclists out there in
internet land.

Stay on Top,

Ken Fuchs <kfuchs@winternet.com

4

Re: Cheap Unicycles: What to watch out for, and what to get next?

Julian Orbach <julian@cs.uq.oz.au> writes:
> How can I tell by looking what a good unicycle is?
>
> Even harder, how I can I tell through a mail order catalogue?
>
> From the catalogues I have collected, I could buy any of the following
> standard unicycles :
>
> Miyata Flamingo (from $AUS275) Miyata Flamingo Expert (from $AUS415) Semcycle
> XL (from $AUS325) Semcycle Pro (from $AUS485) Pave’ ???
>
> Can anyone comment on these? I strongly suspect the more expensive models are
> genuinely better quality, but I would need strong convincing before I outlaid
> $485 on a “seat on a pole on a wheel”.
>
> Sorry for the long ramble. I would appreciate any advice people can give me to
> get a longer lasting, better value unicycle next time.

Ken Fuchs has already given you a glowing recommendation for Miyata. I can’t
compare with Miyata as they are not generally available in the UK, but I do
know Sems.

I was in the the same position as you about two years ago. Together with a
friend from work ( OK - I admit, he’s my boss :wink: ) we bought a cheap uni
(Pashley) and, in the course of learning to go a few yards on it, trashed it in
less than a month. We also had height problems - I’m 6’1, he’s 6’3 and
Australian (the poor Pashley never had a chance), and quick-release problems and
crank problems and… Time to buy a better uni!

We each bought 24" Sem XL Trainers and so did another friend who is taller.
After two years of HARD use every week (competitive unicycle hockey with a hard
ball takes its toll) I do not regret the choice, but I cannot claim that I
expect my machine to last for 20 years.

The Sem Trainer top to bottom:

Saddle - one of the more comfortable uni saddles - a bit of supplementary
padding advised. Vinyl starts to rip eventually. (The Semcycle’s rubber
saddle cover is more durable, but I have seen more than one Semcyle saddle
snap in half).

Seat post - the Sem Trainer’s long seat post is just long enough and the ability
to use a quick-release enables you to set the height to your taste and allows
shorter people to have a go. (The Semcycle cannot be used with a quick-release
because of its split stem design).

Frame - tubular steel and pretty strong, though the forks can start to splay
out with extreme treatment - can be bent back ( Sem Trainer works on the
‘stiff frame, flexible wheel’ theory while the Semcycle is ‘stiff wheel,
flexible frame’ )

Bearings - the bearings do take a battering, but they are accessible and easy to
replace. If you are gentle with it, they may be fine - I wouldn’'t know. :wink:

Axle - this may be the Achilles heel of the Sem Trainer. Each of our three Sem
Trainers has sheered its axle clean off (usually when coming to a sudden stop,
so it’s comparitively safe) though I have seen and heard of this happening to
other makes as well. Carlos Abrahams ( the Sem designer and builder ) has
recently released a new, shorter axle to combat this problem - to tell the
difference, the old, long axle has a clear half-inch gap between the
bearing-housing and the end of the crank.

Cranks - can work loose ( possibly contributing to axle-shear as mentioned above
) but they are OK if you keep them tight.

Wheel - I have had no problems with my wheel other than minor dents to the rim
though I did once see a Sem Trainer wheel explode into a U-shape from bunny
hopping on part the the wheel which already had a broken spoke or two.

Tyres - will wear out, choose your own.

All of this may sound like a damning testimony of disasters, but I still believe
that the Sem Trainer is a good machine - a good solid piece of kit as we would
say over here, and it is its very reliability which leads us to test it to its
limits and beyond.

Peter Philip of the LUNIs - London’s Unicycle Hockey Team (Taking a week or two
off to recover from surgery after riding my uni through a window)