My unicycle just broke!! I thought that I would get more mileage than this, before it ever broke! A pedal broke off. Either a thread on the pedal broke, or a thread in the crank broke. Either way my practice session ended for quit some time now.
Finally was able to identify that the metal thread came of the pedal. That should be cheaper to replace.
OK. I got it to go back on, but it won’t go back on all the way. What do you think? Will it work this way, or are we talking new pedals, and new cranks?
To see if the pedal or crank is faulty, steal a pedal off a bike and try to thread it in(make sure to take a left pedal since the threads will be reversed). If this works then your pedal is broken if not then the crank is broken or the pedal and crank, in which case threading the uni pedal into a bike would prove which is the case. If you can see an issue on the threads of the pedal, you might be able to take a screwdriver or knife blade and straighten the threads out, but it is definitely worth upgrading from those stock pedals anyways so maybe not worth the trouble.
Yeah, that’s what I am thinking. I found a more durable upgrade, and it would definitely add some bling to my unicycles look. I know a thread came off the pedal, but I don’t know if the crank is damaged too. I don’t have any bikes. My neighbors don’t like me, and would probably prefer that I move. So, I can’t ask any of them.
Sounds like the pedal may have worked loose. Double check to make sure the left hand threaded pedal is on the left side and the right hand threaded pedal is on the right side. If they are reversed the pedals will work loose.
It’s definitely a boken thread broke off. Thread is not an acurate word. The corkscrew ridges on the bolt of the pedal came off. Here is a picture of it, if that helps. Anyway, it was still partially stuck to the bolt at one end of this shrapnel. That sucker stabbed me!
Oh wow! I’ve never seen that before. Usually a thread will wear away or turn into metal dust, but the whole thing detaching? Weird. Stock pedals must be getting cheaper and cheaper! You could maybe salvage that by fiddling with a small file or sandpaper to smooth the edge of the remaining thread, but probably time for those new pedals you said you were looking at.
I agree! I just need to find out if the crank is damaged too; or, do you think that I should replace the cranks?
Well having had this happen to me on other occasions I would say that looks like the pedal unscrewed to the point that the last thread from in the crank arm pulled out as you pushed down on the pedal. As the pedal does not go in very far, try threading it in from the back side of that crank. if that works the pedal thread is OK and the crank thread will have to be “chased” with a tap at your local bike shop. (Don’t need no stink’n neighbors) just us unicyclists.
ROFLOL I like your motto!
I’d just go to a bike store, they can probably help you out. They should have the proper taps and dies to clean up the threads, I think both the crank and the pedal should be useable.
I’ll stress again: make sure the crank and pedals are on the correct side. The left pedal has a left handed thread, the right pedal has a right handed thread. If the wheel is the wrong way around, the pedals will unscrew and if you don’t notice it early enough, exactly this will happen.
Yes, this is almost certainly the case. When a unicycle is ridden when the pedal is loose it cracks and breaks of the threads in the cranks… this generally happens when the unicycle is built the wrong way around. @Ravenkeep could this have been the case that the saddle has been rotated around and you have ridden the unicycle with your right foot on the left crank etc.?
I saw this once… when I put the left pedal on the right side.
Well, my peddles, cranks, and frame have left and right stickers on them. They are in the correct locations. Unless there was an error at the factory, and they marked them incorrectly.
The seat does twist around a lot, but not so badly that it faced the other direction.
I did follow the video instructions that the company provided. However, if I put the seat on incorrectly. I would have no way of proving that.
The factory stickers are probably correct, but to double check you can just look at the threads. Hold up a pedal vertically with the threaded side up. If the thread slants diagonally from right to left and downwards, then it is the right side thread. If it slants from left to right and downwards then it’s the left side thread.
That’s a good ideal. I will check that then.
I would closely inspect the threads on the pedal and then attempt to screw it in from the wrong side of the crank, with the pedal between the spokes. This will chase the threads in the crank and hopefully allow you to screw it in from the correct side. Be extra careful not to cross-thread anything when you screw it back in. Frequently, damaged threads will want to cross-thread and even when they don’t you will usually feel extra resistance as you turn them. Just be very careful and be sure that everything is at a 90 degree angle as you tighten things up.
Once you get it threaded on properly I’d back it off and apply some loctite before retightening and then make a habit of checking your pedals every week or so.
I also broke some Cranks and Pedals. Mostly i don’t check it before I ride and than it’s loose and broke. Yeah, not the best way. Before I go hardcore Muni than I checked it or for a Race. Nimbus Cranks are broke but it was an old one and Pedals,there was a cheap pedal round 15 euros. I’ve a better pedal and it’s never broke before.