Having just trashed some Shimano cranks and hatched a plan to get me a
Profile hub with cranks to match I’m wondering just what it takes to break
a set of splined cranks. Am I right in saying that these seem to be the
ones that go before the hub itself?
Chris - you broke a Profile crank doing what looks like a 5-6 foot drop.
Was this early on in their lifetime? Had they seen bigger drops? How’s
your replacement set holding out?
Kris - I imagine you’ve gone through a few sets by now. What sort of use
do you expect to get out of them before a breakage is acceptable?
If anyone else has bust a pair - what make were they and what were you
doing at the time?
I imagine the DM’s will come out tops given their price and the fact that
they’re made by DM. Just a shame you can’t buy an individual DM hub and
cranks I guess.
Cheers, Neil
Neil,
> Am I right in saying that these seem to be the ones that go before the
> hub itself?
The cranks do seem to go before the hub. I’m still on my original hub, but
third set of cranks.
> Chris - you broke a Profile crank doing what looks like a 5-6 foot drop.
> Was this early on in their lifetime? Had they seen bigger drops? How’s
> your replacement set holding out?
It think they were about four months old. I never thought I would actually
break a pair, but then I went and tried my first 5-footer (flat concrete
landing) and they bent quite a bit just from that one drop. That concerned
me, but I tried it again anyway, and it sheared off. The new dirt jumper
cranks I’m running now are bent at this point, but haven’t broken.
Mostly I attribute my breaking of cranks to poor riding style. Kris can do
way bigger drops on his and not even bend them.
Either way, they are definitely the thing to have if you’ve been bending
high end standard cranks. I’ve saved sooo much money since getting them.
And I’ve only been left on the side of the road once (and that was only
1/2 mile from the car.)
Chris
–
www.reeder.unicyclist.com
Titanium
Hi,
In my BMX catalogue, you can purchase a Titanium axle for your Profile cranks(for bikes). It probably be beneficial if they put a titanium axle on their MUni hubs. Especially if you could choose the axle material, for those people on a budget. Chromoly or Titanium. Maybe the crank arms themselves should have titanium and cromoly together (if this would be possible). It would save weight and gain strength, and even for those persons who are running those heavy Nokian 3.0 tires.
-Evan
Would Race Face ever get involved with MUni? North Shore cranks are bad!! A lifetime Warranty, not bad.
So how does Kris manage the drops he takes and does not mess up his parts?
Hi,
Re bent cranks:
DM ATU Hub:
The only time I’ve ever bent one was on a 9 foot drop onto flat ground
(hub slightly bent). Other than that they have been fine. I’ve broken 3
sets of crank arms, all at the weld at the bottom of the crank arm (by the
axle). It seems that over time the cranks get rusty on the inside and this
weld can weaken and rust until it breaks.
Profile Hubs:
I’ve been riding on Profile’s setup for about 4 months now, and with daily
use and hundreds of drops, and I have yet to bend the hub and my Profile
cranks are still perfectly straight. The only slight annoyance is that
because there’s no taper on the splines and they’re not pinch splines,
they do loosen very slightly. This does not cause any perceptible movement
but it does make them creak if they are not well greased. For anyone who
is aggressive enough to bend/break the regular crank arms, Profile also
makes a heavier set of dirt jumping cranks.
In general, I think that both these setups are redundantly strong for
almost anyone. Good technique in drops (ie rolling out of drops, or
dropping seat out in front) makes a HUGE difference to the forces put on
an axle and with good technique I doubt we’ll see many breakages of
these hubs.
-Kris Holm.
— Neil Dunlop <n.dunlop@kildrummy.co.uk> wrote:
> Having just trashed some Shimano cranks and hatched a plan to get me a
> Profile hub with cranks to match I’m wondering just what it takes to
> break a set of splined cranks. Am I right in saying that these seem to
> be the ones that go before the hub itself?
>
> Chris - you broke a Profile crank doing what looks like a 5-6 foot drop.
> Was this early on in their lifetime? Had they seen bigger drops? How’s
> your replacement set holding out?
>
> Kris - I imagine you’ve gone through a few sets by now. What sort of use
> do you expect to get out of them before a breakage is acceptable?
>
> If anyone else has bust a pair - what make were they and what were you
> doing at the time?
>
> I imagine the DM’s will come out tops given their price and the fact
> that they’re made by DM. Just a shame you can’t buy an individual DM hub
> and cranks I guess.
>
> Cheers, Neil
>
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I asked Profile whether they could make me a hub with a Titanium axle.
Unfortunately they don’t make the Ti version in a length that works for
the uni hub (they’re too short).
-Kris. — MUni <forum.member@unicyclist.com> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> In my BMX catalogue, you can purchase a Titanium axle for your Profile
> cranks(for bikes). It probably be beneficial if they put a titanium axle
> on their MUni hubs. Especially if you could choose the axle material,
> for those people on a budget. Chromoly or Titanium. Maybe the crank arms
> themselves should have titanium and cromoly together (if this would be
> possible). It would save weight and gain strength, and even for those
> persons who are running those heavy Nokian 3.0 tires.
>
> -Evan
>
>
> Would Race Face ever get involved with MUni? North Shore cranks are
> bad!! A lifetime Warranty, not bad.
>
> So how does Kris manage the drops he takes and does not mess up
> his parts?
>
>
>
>
> –
> Posted via the Unicyclist Community - http://unicyclist.com/forums
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