Biggest weight loss on your unicycle?

More weight means more inertia, especially weight in places that rotate when the wheel turns. When you’re going straight and not changing speed this isn’t always a bad thing and can make for a more stable and smoother ride. When your riding involves lots of speed changes and turns the additional inertia requires more effort to overcome.

24" KH guni.
My “before” uni had: Schlumpf hub, DT db spokes, a Velo 8 computer, 150/125 moments, Magura brakes, and 2" cut off of stock seat post. Everything else was stock.

All measurements done with a small digital food scale.
Totals based on all part weight separately and summed.

Muni before: 8126g (17.91 lbs)
Muni after: 6832g (15.06 lbs)
Total Savings: 1294g (2.85 lbs)

Duro 24x3 w/ slight wear: 1421g (3.13 lbs)
Panaracer Fire FR 24x2.4: 850g (1.87 lbs)
Tire Savings: 571g (1.26 lbs)

Odyssey Trail Mix: 566g (1.25 lbs)
Wellgo MG-1 Ti: 300g (0.66 lbs)
Pedals Savings: 266g (0.59 lbs)

24x3 stock DH: 425g (0.94 lbs)
24x1.5/2.5 Schwalbe A 10: 165g (0.36 lbs)
Tube Savings: 260g (0.57 lbs)

Stock 150/125 Moments: 585g (1.29 lbs)
Milled (too much? pics to come): 444g (0.98 lbs)
Cranks Savings: 141g (0.31 lbs)

KH seat clamp: 67g (0.15 lbs)
Woodman Deathgrip SL Ti: 11g (0.02 lbs)
Seat clamp Savings: 56g (0.12 lbs)

Total rotational weight savings: 1238g (2.73 lbs)

*** Note ***
I have not ridden this off-road yet. For all I know, I’ll hate the tire, the tube will pop, the seat post will not stay up, my titanium pedal spindles will snap, my milled cranks will break and cut my Achilles tendons leaving me on the trail to bleed.

Even with no problems, I don’t really know if the weight savings will be noticeable or not. So far I noticed it was lighter when I took it off the wall of my garage. :roll_eyes:


I’m still considering:

  • Removing 125mm pedal inserts
  • Non-adjustable seat post (KH? TryAll from my 20"? cut more off too?)
  • Plastic Magura lines
  • Seat modifications (cf base? drill/cut?)

Another serious answer:

I once changed the duro 24x3 (1750 gr) to a Schwalbe Big Betty 24 x 2.4 (800 gr).
Also changed the tube from the DH version (450 gr) to a standart tube (225 gr).

A total saving of 1175 gram on the spot you will notice most.

The feel of the uni was completely different, very light and nimble. Much easier to accelerate. So you will really notice 1+ kg weight loss on the tire.

But you can’t go very fast on a 24" anyway, so I changed the tire to a Gazzaloddi 24x3.0, and put the DH tube back in.
I think the grip and the cushion feeling of a large tire are more important then weight.

Yeah if you want any decent weight savings, different parts are the way to go. You wont take off much drilling things but the easiest mod is to cut the seatpost down if you can.

A heavier uni will absorb more impact on rocks and things, so the ride will be smoother. For riding distance on relatively flat surfaces this comes in handy, it also smooths out Muni trails. The trade-off is when you encounter uphill patches which will take more work.

When doing trials, flat and street type things a lighter uni means you might be able to jump higher, get faster wheel and uni rotations, etc. The whole thing will feel more nimble and take less effort, still doesn’t guarantee you’ll land the trick. :slight_smile:

We were just having this conversation over in this thread. Rotational weight is where it’s at but weight at the hub (Schlumpf versus aluminum hub on Impulse) on my two similar 36er setups is noticeable. The Impulse feels light as a feather climbing hills. Also, you can’t (not “recommended”) use a FOSS tube in a drilled rim. Finally, I’m on the list for the lightweight tire if/when it comes out. I’m a weight weenie.

Rotational weight is the real issue here- at least for uni disciplines like Muni and distance where the wheel will be travelling a long distance and undergo periods of forced acceleration and de-acceleration. It becomes even more of an issue when you have a geared hub and your wheel speed will be much greater than an un-geared machine.

I am a moderate weight weenie. Insofar as i will do things in my power to make changes to my unicycle that will directly effect the feel of the ride. The best way I have achieved this is by changing tyres, tubes- even going tubeless to change the weight of my wheel in my geared Muni. The difference in ride characteristics is instantly noticeable.

The type of weight reduction that is not so noticeable for these types of riding is overall weight. You will notice big differences weight in very hilly situations- but apart from that it is harder to qualify the changes.

An interesting example from my riding habits: I always ride with a camelback with a 2l water bladder in it. Thats 2 whole kgs of weight I put on my back for any ride I do- even if it is cooler weather or at night. I notice more of a difference changing the few 100 grams in the tyre than I did when I decided to ride with only 400ml of water in my bag.

The issue is different for trials/ street/ flat riders. Overall unicycle weight becomes paramount because they are requiring to spin, lift and throw the unicycle around a lot.

@muniorbust: fancy posting a pic of your machined moment cranks?

Mark

A friend of mine milled my moments. I gave him a picture of KcTheAcy’s milled cranks from this post.
He took out even more material, which makes me nervous.
I don’t care much if they break, especially with Moments being $50 now, but I don’t want to get hurt.

Looking at the picture makes me more worried than in real life. But they’re still pushing the limits more than I’d like.
What do you think?

milled_moments.jpg

WOW! yeah he really went to town on them didn’t he! :astonished:

I guess we won’t know until you get out there and ride hard on them for a bit. Once I decide on what crank length I want to have on my new G26er (tossing up between 125 and 137mm but will test both out in the next few weeks) i’m going to do the same thing. I think i’ll get the machinist to leave an extra 2mm on each of the sides and maybe even a small cross beam in the middle of the cut away.

I hope they hold up for you!

Mark

I have a unicycle that was close to 9kg a few years ago and is now under 6kg. The only part that is the same is the hub… On another unicycle I just swapped a 1200g tire for a 1860g tire

light weight is great for most stuff but having that extra bit of momentum can help in other situations.

EDIT: thinking about the forces going into cranks I think you should be OK as long as you don’t do a bunch of crank grabs and dent one of the sides.

About feeling the light

I am not a very good uni rider. If I was much better, having a uni as strong, and much lighter, would be an advantage. The only advantage I could just buy.

At my skill level, I sorta enjoy my KH’s more for the pride of ownership in a quality product. The weight difference doesn’t seem to help me much. I bet I could ride a heavier Nimbus, Qu ax , etc. , just as well.

Still, no one can refute the fact that lighter is better. FTL can’t feel it really. I’m not that good and just wanted KH’s for the craftsmanship. For better riders, I am sure it is very important. Light is the only thing you can buy.

Also, even if you can’t feel it yet, light is always right. Especially if your wallet is heavy. Oh, so much then.

do you know how much weight you saved? this would be good if there was a small beam in the middle to prevent bending

I agree, a beam would make me feel more secure. Still, for all I know I’ll never be applying more than 50% of the force needed to break these. That’s what I’m hoping. It’s an experiment and as long as I don’t get hurt, I’ll be ok with failure.

Yeah, in the previous post I listed my savings.

I’ve seen at least one person milled around the ISIS hole to increase frame clearance. I could even remove more material there. My milling buddy’s milling machine isn’t very easy to set up, and he had to do all the work, so I didn’t push it.

I’ve lost 10 pounds (~4.5 kg) since I began riding again in April 2011!

Ideally it was all in your feet. (rotational weight) :stuck_out_tongue:

Ah, this thread again. Someone posts a thread just like this about twice a year.

So here I go again, using the search function like a fancy-pants. The definitive thread on reducing unicycle weight is right here:

I want my unicycle as light as possible

FANCY PANTS!!! Destroying it for the rest of the crew that wears boring dull pants.

As with most things, a compromise is a compromise, so going lighter is not often better, ie short cranks may be lighter but they may also reduce rideability.

The easiest and most effective way to lose weight is to get a lighter tube/tire, for example:
Duro DH 26 x 3", 1.5mm Tube ~450gm
Maxxis Freeride 26 x 2.2-2.7, 1.2 mm tube ~295gm
No diffence in rideability.

Duro 26 x 3" Wildife Tire ~1500gm
Maxxiz Ardent 26 x 2.4 Tire ~850gm
Some difference in shock absorption, but the Ardent is a noticeably faster tread.

You can do the same for cranks and pedals, lose upwards of 300-400gm by making careful choices, and still not negatively affect ride quality.

Frames are frames, not only is there little weight difference between steel and aluminum frames, but the weight is centralized so it is less likely to make a difference in how the uni rides.

Seat, seatpost, brakes, no big gains there, keep looking.

Hubs, this can be a big loser IF you can get a ti or al hub that fits your needs. I saw an ~ 500gm weight loss going from a chromoly spindled hub to a ti spindled hub; but the ti hub broke. The al hubs tend to twist when used hard. Oh well.

As to what really makes the biggest difference?

That “punk kid” made a very good point, conditioning and overall fitness mean a lot more than the sum weight of a unicycle’s parts. I spent all last week riding the Oregon in Oregon, a beast of a muni it is, but it was not that much of a hardship because I’m fit and conditioned for muni. But I will say, I am sooooo looking forward to getting back on my 29er :smiley:

Yup, old thread topics just seem to cycle around…

I got my KH 24 MUni down to 10.5 pounds.

The hub does rotate, but it has a relatively small diameter, and at the center of rotation so it would not have much inertia, having a similar effect to a heavier/lighter frame.

Something like cranks or pedals is getting further from the center so would have a larger effect.