Best MUni saddle

Alright, I’ve done the obligatory forum searching, found out most of the information I was looking for. But I decided it would still be worth my while to drop a line out there and see what bit.

I just got to thinking today what saddle arrangement I’d go with next, if and when my current Qu-Ax one breaks. I started out about an hour ago, vaguely knowing what existed, but not at all how it fit together. I now know vaguely how stuff fits together, as well. :slight_smile:

I am still having a bit of troubles figuring out all the different pieces that can go into a saddle and which to be used with what, and so on. So, basically. I would like a saddle 101 lesson as to what makes up a very good MUNi saddle, how brand A works with brand B, how important is the ability to tilt the saddle, carbon fiber vs stiffener, reeder vs deathgrip?

So, everything that you guys got about saddles and MUni. Oh, and also, will the Qu-Ax seat be upgradable at all, or will I just start from scratch? And remember, variety is the spice of life. Lotso answers are mucho better than just saying, “yeah, I agree THAT is the best nuff said”

I’m using a stock nimbus gel seat and I really like it. I’m thinking of upgrading to CF wath a deathgrip handle in the future though. those are awesome!

I like the nimbus gel more than the new Kh fusion becuase it’s firmer but comfier, insanely skinny, and barely chaffes.

Iam using a KH gel seat and it pretty nice,but recently i have made an airseat and no other seat compares to an airseat. I feel like i could go 1000 miles and not be sore.

Yeah, I just converted my fusion saddle to an airseat with a 12" tube in a sock, and it’s just awesome. I haven’t tried gel yet though. But I know i’m never going back to foam.

as far as i know all kh seat’s and kh clones use the exact same shape. If you arent doing much hopping droping and aren’t a weight weenie this base is all you’ll ever need.

stiffener plates give a nice feel, but still flex a little and weigh a ton. if you want a stiff unbreakable seat get the carbon fiber base you’ll save weight over plastic too. I like the kh style cf base over the miyata because it is narrower and the kh foam will fit.

Scott Wallis Designs Derail base. This base is deisgned after Zack Baldwin’s Direct connect idea. this base is the best money can buy, Scott’s quality of construction is as good as carbonfiber gets. it is the lightest and when paired with a thomson post, strongest way to go.

I have tried a few air seats which feel great at first because they are super cushy, but once you get a few miles down the trail, you may notice that comes at a cost. with air seats, your “sit bones” sink into the seat while your weight rests on your softer areas. feels good at first, but believe me it gets old (like a waterbed for your crotch). not only that, but you get bounced around by the seat where foam wants to absorb the impact.

the best seat I have felt without modification is the new kh dual-density pad. it’s thin, and dosent have the crazy concave that the original kh does. There is a layer of soft padding with firm padding underneath which is great because you dont sink into the seat as much.

my favorite way to go is buy one of the fatty kh seats, and shave the padding down to whatever shape is best for the style of riding i plan on doing. on my Muni right now i have it cut so there is no concave at all till it has to curve up to meet the handle. I still have some fine tuning to do (rounding edges, thinning the sides), but it feels great so far. I strongly suggest shaping your own seat out of the fatty foam pad to fit your body and style of riding. going this route severly reduces the need for an adjustable post.

Miyata handle feels nice to my hand compaired to other plastic handles, but the plastic isn’t very strong.

Kinport handle is strong, and fits miyata bolt patern, but does not fit the shape of your hand at all. the version without the hole is especially uncomfortable your fingers get jammed in the bottom of the cut out.

kh handle gets the job done, nothing super special.

Reeder handle is great, and you can use bike grips, it is heavy though. recomended only for use with carbonfiber bases, the torque this thing gives you will kill plastic bases. Will not fit any factory bolt patterns (you have to drill your base).

Scott Wallis Designs death grip handle feels incredible (only ergonomic handle around), i don’t have much experience with this handle, but i have destroyed a carbonfiber rear bumper on concrete, so i would only use this handle in the dirt. No hole in this handle either, so if you have long fingers, they can get jamed in the top.

seatpost adjustment:
having an adjustable post is nice because you get to fine tune the nose angle on your seat. you will need a heavy steel rail adapter to use an adjustable (bike) seat post. the exception to this is if you are crafty or have a scott wallis derail base wich allows a thomson post to be directly attached to the base bypassing the rail clamps.

Tilting the seat nose-up lessens the amount of pressure pushing your balls into the front upcurve of the seat. a slight upward angle in the back is nessesary to cradle you in the seat somewhat so it dosen’t feel like you will slide off the back. with an adjustable post, you get to decide what the best angle is for you. Again, carving a good shape out of your foam can acomplish a satisfactory angle with a fixed post.

Any more questions?

Wallis all the way for Muni. His new bladder for the air seat plus the split seat cover is a big step up from the old mushy tube (not so good for long rides).


I love the standard KH Fusion saddles, super comfy just as stock. But A rail adapter will make a world of difference as well.

Re: Best MUni saddle

On Wed, 23 Aug 2006 04:19:53 -0500, onetrack wrote:

(good stuff snipped)

>Any more questions?

That was very informative, thank you.

Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict

“I’m slowly but surely stealing Wales and bringing it back to my house on the wheel, frame and cranks of my muni. - phil”

I’m also planning to make a gel/ tempur pedic memory foam seat. we’ll see how to works.

Just one, can I have your number so that whenever I have a question I can call you? :slight_smile: That was the most concise helpful answer to a question I have ever received.

I was wondering a lot of things that you answered directly, so thanks for not making me have to post them. And the foam carving idea is brilliant. I’ve been wondering the same type of thing, why you couldn’t just use a bike seat with some sort of front attachment to make you not fall out, never thought of the easiest thing, to just carve a piece of foam myself.

So, what advantage does the derail base have over the cheaper cf bases if I don’t care about the tilt option and I’m not planning on doing anything crazy enough to break any of the cf bases out there.

Also, I think I really like the Reeder handle. The DeathGrip is nice, but I think I’d prefer a bar. So, is there anything other than weight that makes the Reeder bad? And I’ve also read that the DG can get slippery when you have sweaty hands, and I sweat like a beast, so any reality to this? Basically, Reeder vs DeathGrip? Pros and cons…

About the Road relief, is that a god among saddles? And how useful for MUni is it? I doubt I’d ever spend that much on a saddle, but I figure it’s always good to know.

Anyone who weighs more than him wanna corroborate his opinion?

So, what about a custom fitted foam piece under a gel insert? And if so, what cover do you use? Will a fusion cover fit this, or would something more custom have to be used?

I guess the next advantage is that you can get a derail base that’s pre-drilled and SS threaded inserts are epoxied in place. With this setup, all you need to attach the seatpost, bumper and handle are screws. No drilling, no filing, no carriage bolts, no nuts… no mess, no fuss! You’ll be getting a ready-to-ride base, rather than a blank piece of material that needs careful reworking before it can be used… and if you mess up, well, you might end up with a less-than-optimal setup.

Think of the Reeder as a fishhook waiting to snag anything as it shoots out from underneath you. It’s weight makes it a bit of a weapon… and you could end up bruised as a result. As for the slipperiness of the DG, it’s a non-issue… you should be wearing gloves. If you aren’t you’re asking for a world of hurt.

It is the La-Z-Boy of unicycle saddles, where everything else is a misshapen, hard wooden barstool.

Alright, yeah, I wasn’t thinking of all the good of the Derail base. I guess that’s definitely in the running then.

What about the roadrelief for Muni, though, it’s still god? And what makes it so good, couldn’t it be copied by molding foam?

I’m not worried about weight of the Reeder at all, and I’m also not worried about hurting myself with it. And not to be rude (although most of you know that that’s my speciatly :slight_smile: )but what exact world of hurt am I headed for without gloves? I don’t and won’t wear them, so I’m just curious how going a maximum of 10 mph is going to rock my world if I fall?

I mean seriously, if we’re worried about hurting ourselves, we shouldn’t be on ONE wheel. I REFUSE to use ANY kind of protection what so ever…

You don’t have to be going fast to hurt yourself. If you’re doing muni, theres no chance of really skinning up your hands on anything…unless you fall on a rock or something…however you’ll be wishing you were wearing gloves if you upd and land hands first on a few thorns or sand burrs which has happened enough times to me to make me wanna wear gloves.

I’ve been riding street with a reeder handle since it came out and Chris Reeder was making them. I have had plenty of nasty falls, and the handle has never been an issue. I rode without gloves most the time, grip was never a problem. The only thing I have against it is that it gets in the way for flatland tricks, but you won’t be doing any flatland on your muni.

You will have to do some modification if you go this way. You’ll have to (well, you should) cut it shorter so it doesn’t stick out much past your fist when you’re griping it. And you’ll have to drill your own mounting holes.

I have limited experience with the deathgrip handle, so I can’t comment too much other than how awesome feels in my hand. that said, I love being able to wrap my fingers around a bar.

Thanx for justifying my thoughts.

Since I’ve finally had experience with an air saddle, I might as well give you my opinion. Air saddles really really blow. I bought a fusion saddle and converted it to air with a 12 inch tube(which is plenty, but then again I haven’t tried a 20 inch). I had the tube like shaped perfectly too, I had about 3/4 of it in a couple layers of socks, and the rest of it was pushed down to fit the perimeter of the back of the seat. It looked perfect. No lumps or anything, it basically looked like foam.

I mounted the thing, and initially your like wow, this is very very comfortable, and think you could ride for miles. I took it for its first official test and after 40 minutes of riding I was disgusted at such a waste of time it was to make that seat. All I could think about was saddle soreness, and my ride was miserable.

Next one I want to try is the nimbus gel, I’ve heard a lot of good things about that. But for now my dx seat, or fusion seat stock are the most comfortable ones I have. The foam is much harder than air, yet I can ride for so much longer.

So, I’d say don’t go with air if you were condering it.

Personally I’m stock KH fusion seat all the way. The newest nice shaped one.

Airseats are rubbish, they’re spoingy and you lose control. You just end up spending the whole ride standing up for control and to stop being bounced off, where on the normal seat you’d have sat down for half of it. They feel nice to start with, but once you get to the point of actually riding long distances, something more stiff is the way to go.

I’d also really really recommend never having an airseat that doesn’t have any foam in, because you will only piss off the people you ride with when you have to fix an airseat flat half way through the ride.

Some people tilt them up for comfort using a rail adapter, I’ve got one with, one without and it doesn’t make much difference for me, have done 10 hour rides on both. Maybe the tilted up one is slightly more comfy.

I’ve ridden with a reeder handle and with similar home made handles on unicycles I’ve borrowed and found they were okay, but not so much better than stock KH that I bothered getting one. I think if you do big hops and drops they’d make a difference though. The only downside I found to them is that they have a tendency to hit you on every UPD and you get a bruise in the inner thigh from where they hit you. I think you’ve gotta be careful about how you mount them to avoid this.


I could see that maybe it’d be bad if I rode the other way around. But whenever I fall, I make a concerted effort to grab the back-right of the seat, as I’m going down, with my right hand and swing it around the right side of me back to the front. And since I’d have a right handed Reeder, my left leg would be well free from the fishook, and my right leg would just slide along it.

What about a Reeder and just a stiffner plate? And if so, what kinds of bases can I get stiffener plates from? And if only Miyata as UDC would suggest, how can I make that base more like a KH?

KH gel seat 2009

I would like to know if the Kris Holm 2009 gel seat could work for muni and cross country.I plan to ride with a kris holm 29 inch uni with t bar.I also wold like to know what the best setup is.Please include seat,pedalsand touring bar:)