im disassembling my 36’er getting the crome sandblasted of and powdercoated. while i was doing this i wanted to upgrade the rim and hub. what would be the best hub to get? it is the old coker frame i belive those are 40mm bearings correct me if im wrong. i want to stay with the factory size bearings. also does anybody know whats up with the new coker handle? i thought that was comming out this month?
The original Coker hubs are pretty narrow too, but I’m not sure what the difference may be, if any. I think those original hubs are pretty good; mine’s fine after thousands of miles. There is probably a UDC hub that’s equivalent if you want to be safe and put on a new one.
No word on the new Coker handles but I’m chomping at the bit to try one out too. At this point they’re probably waiting for a container to arrive, and those things just happen when they happen. Hopefully they will announce when the things are available to order!
kdawg- I know the wisdom with 36er hubs is to go with wide ones for a strong wheel build but with KH dual drilled cranks out and about i would consider maybe going for an ISIS hub and just invest in a really well done wheel build. Unless of course you can get your hands on some of those sweet drilled Kooka cranks i have seen about on the forums.
The new nimbus rims look pretty nice and light as well,
mark
You want a UDC extra wide hub and nimbus nightrider pro rim.
Corbin
I agree, but the Isis hubs are usually 42 mm bearing sizes. You can machine put your 40mm to larger but if you want to go that route I strongly reccommend a kh schlumph hub.
ya i wanted to get the kh hub with the two hole cranks but those are 42mm bearings and i dont want to have my bearing holders machined. it would be nice if they made them with 40mm bearings, but my research here has come up with many people asking about them and many people saying it wont happen for cost reasons.
If you’ve got one of the original coker frames or one of the UDC radial frames it will work with the KH hub even though its designed for 40mm. Its what I’m going to do. I’ll be running a KH ISIS hub with the nightrider pro rim.
I’ve had my Nimbus ISIS trials wheel on the Nimbus round crown frame which is designed for 40mm for several months and its doing fine. As long as the holders aren’t machined you should be okay.
Nah, go for a Std Width hub with a good wheelbuild unless you’re particularly heavy.
The extra-wide hubs give a stronger wheel, but I’ve not had any problems with my UDC hub. It’s been used for thousands of Km’s both on and off-road.
If I was building a new wheel now, I’d build it with a Nimbus ISIS hub. Although I might wait until a lighter ISIS hub comes out 
I’ve just had to make the same decision - I wanted to upgrade my coker wheel and had to decide whether to play safe with a wide hub or go with the convenience of ISIS.
My old wheel is a steel rim with UDC super-wide hub, and has stayed very straight, presumably partly to do with the wide hub. But a few people I know have been riding normal width hubs (and one really narrow Suzue) with airfoil rims and had no problems. So I decided to go with a Nimbus ISIS hub and Stealth Pro rim. Roger (UDC UK) didn’t seem to think I was too much of a fool… I’m sure with Roger’s wheel build and sensible use it’ll be fine. I’m not really heavy, but at 12 stone I’m certainly a bit heavier than the likes of Ken and Sam W. But I don’t do anything really silly like hops and drops on the coker - strictly light xc - so my wheel gets a fairly easy life compared to some.
Rob
I am wondering why so many people are going for the dual drilled moments on their cokers. I would love these cranks but what is the point of the 150’s? If I had these cranks, I would only use the 125mm holes because riding a 36 with 150’s seems quite long.
How are all of you fitting the 42mm isis hub in a 40 mm bearing holder?
Just shoving it in will damage the bearing causing it to prematurely fail.
I agree with the others; an ISIS hub is the way to go, and the extra width of an extra-wide isn’t 100% required. I’ve switched to the KH hub on my Nimbus 36, and it has been fine – even with running a brake.
corbin
I think that is great advice, but the extra wide hub will run a brake better than a standard width hub. In general, you don’t run a brake, right?
But, having said that, I’ve had a brake rub with the extra wide hub going up really steep hills. I had to solve it by moving to a cable brake.
corbin
If that was directed at me, then yes, I’m just going to shove it in. I’ve been told by various trustworthy people that the cheap pressed bearing holders will bend enough - they’re not exactly a precision fit even on 40mm bearings after all. Obviously it’s not as good as proper machined holders but bearings are so cheap I’m willing to take the risk. If I keep killing bearings I’ll have to buy a new frame, but I’ve got nothing to lose by trying it (except £5 worth of bearings).
Rob
I further this, I ran 42mm on an old KH 03 hub in a 40mm nimbus frame for years, no problems. Ther is no shoving involved, the clamps just don’t close so close together when tightened. I know it’s not ideal but there’s hardly a lot on the line.
Bit of a threadjack, but…
Did you need longer bolts then? Are they easy to get hold of with that funny head or do people just use normal bolts?
Rob
I guess the obvious question is “What do you want out of your Coker?”
The Nimbus ISIS hub is great and so are the KH dual-hole cranks, but there are issues such as the bearing holder issue and width.
The extra-wide (or even just wide) UDC hubs are the standard for this application. They are cheap and the right part for the job. I really do like the idea of the dual-hole cranks, but my opinion is that they are overkill for this application.
Yes — it was to everyone in general who has done it. Thanks for the answers!
I believe the Nimbus 36" frame has machined bearing holders. I simply made a 42mm template out of cardboard, and then carefully dremmeled out the inside diameter of my holders until they perfectly fit the 42mm template. I used a wheel disk thingy to do the dremmelling (i can find out what, if anyone needs to know). I then put on some 42mm caps (pretty cheap on UDC), and that gave me the ability to put my KH Schlumpf hub into the frame. I’d recommend this route over pressing in the bearings, if you have access to a Dremal or some other rotary tool. It was fairly easy to do.
I had considered pressing it in without modifying the holders, which seemed possible, but it also put a lot of stress on the bearings. Just my 2 cents!
corbin
Cool, I figured that would be possible, as it’s such a little bit of metal to machine away, and it’s good to hear that someone has actually done it.
Joe