bearing help please

[UniGeezer]

I just finished removing and cleaning my '07 kh bearings. They were really contaminated and gritty. (From that now infamous fall into the pond!) I soaked them in solvent, used a soft brush to remove all dirt and grit, then used my air compressor to blow out all remaining solvent and debris. Now I need to pack them with grease, but what kind should I use?

I have white lithium and standard auto axle grease. How much should I use and is it then normal for the bearings to have some resistance when you try to spin them in your hand?

I’m assuming they should because if they just spin freely and really fast as if they had zero resistance, that would not be good, right? Please advise asap as I would like to get them back on my Muni. Thanks!

[harper]

I’d use the axle grease, it’s more viscous and stays in place. Phil Wood’s grease is even better. I assume you have the seals off of the bearings. They just pop off and on with little effort. A very small screwdriver will allow you to pop the seal off with ease.

Pack it means just that. Push grease through until it oozes out the other side. Fill the entire volume if you can then wipe the surface and pop the seals back on. The grease will naturally make the bearings seem stiffer.

I don’t know if these bearings are special in any way. If not, bearings are cheap. Usually cheaper than servicing them.

[UniGeezer]

@harper

I’d use the axle grease, it’s more viscous and stays in place. Phil Wood’s grease is even better. I assume you have the seals off of the bearings. They just pop off and on with little effort. A very small screwdriver will allow you to pop the seal off with ease.

Pack it means just that. Push grease through until it oozes out the other side. Fill the entire volume if you can then wipe the surface and pop the seals back on. The grease will naturally make the bearings seem stiffer.

I don’t know if these bearings are special in any way. If not, bearings are cheap. Usually cheaper than servicing them.

Thanks very much for the reply! Yeah I went ahead and used axle grease and did what you suggested. Messy but for me, a good learning experience. They seem to be running nice & smooth again.

I’m wondering though if I should have put any red locktite on the ID of the bearing; Someone at UDC today said that every time you remove the bearings, a little bit of metal comes off, which can make the bearings loose, and that the locktite will prevent this possible movement. Is this true?

While the bearings are indeed pressed on, they don’t seem so terribly tight or friction-causing that it would strip the axle (the smooth part where the bearing sits) of any metal. I could be wrong here though.

And I didn’t put any new grease or that “anti-seize” on the splines; I remember reading in an older post that this is recommended to prevent creeks and to fill any small gaps that might be present where the cranks fit onto the splines.

[kington99]

@MuniAddict

I’m wondering though if I should have put any red locktite on the ID of the bearing; Someone at UDC today said that every time you remove the bearings, a little bit of metal comes off, which can make the bearings loose, and that the locktite will prevent this possible movement. Is this true?

While the bearings are indeed pressed on, they don’t seem so terribly tight or friction-causing that it would strip the axle (the smooth part where the bearing sits) of any metal. I could be wrong here though.

And I didn’t put any new grease or that “anti-seize” on the splines; I remember reading in an older post that this is recommended to prevent creeks and to fill any small gaps that might be present where the cranks fit onto the splines.

Any time you press anything on to a shaft some deformation will take place, that’s why the bearing is hard to press on. The loctite you need is called shaft and sleeve fixer or something along those lines.

Greasing the splines of the moment hub is less important because the ISIS spline has a taper on it unlike other splined hubs. I wouldn’t worry about it.

[elastoplastscavenger]

@kington99

The loctite you need is called shaft and sleeve fixer or something along those lines.

i have one called “bearing fit”, it is red - but in this fairly easy environment almost anything will do.

Tip for anyone out there - most locktite will liquify when heated to a couple of hundred C or so. I use an electric paint stripper gun, like an industrial hair dryer, to heat things that are “stuck” with locktite. usefull for big nuts and bearings etc.

just to emphasise: PACK bearings with grease. if you really want something to slide for a long time then too much lube is almost enough - OOhh errr
I would use Moly grease (molybdinum disulphide) which has stuff in it thats a bit like graphite so will lubricate for a long time, even after the grease has dried or most of it has been washed out. but im no expert and its what i have lying around - most grease will work just fine.

[One_on_one]

It’s called Loctite 609 General purpose retaining compound.

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?pageid=419&layout=1

[Munivision]

Forget axle grease, axels spin at 1000s of rpm we are doing dozens. Phil Woods is the stuff or any bike grease from your LBS. I would be concerned about getting the Loctite into the bearings.
Hey, just finished a ride on Montano de Oro, overlooking Morro Bay. Nice, sometimes rocky descent and amazing views!

[spazdude222]

I have an issue. I’ve never cleaned my bearings before, and (obviously) need to. But I’m not sure how to get it all apart. I have an '05 Torker DX, and would appreciate any help you could offer.

[feel_the_light]

Why obviously ?

@spazdude222

I have an issue. I’ve never cleaned my bearings before, and (obviously) need to. But I’m not sure how to get it all apart. I have an '05 Torker DX, and would appreciate any help you could offer.

A little maintenance can go a long way. In Terry’s case, all in the wrong direction.

I would strongly suggest avoiding anything you have ever read about bearing maintenance on this forum ! I have never came across such a band of fools with such horrid “luck” keeping such a simple device turning in my life.

I have a dual sport 600 cc 300 lb motorcycle in my garage. It’s wheels are held by an identical pair of bearings as is found on my uni’s. It is 20 years old and has been ridden 26,000 miles , much of it through mud and water 2 feet deep. Like most of the dozen motor cycles I have owned in the last 35 years, I have not had to replace the wheel bearings. I have a 450 lb honda that has 78,000 miles on it. When I last changed the tires, I checked the bearings by turning them with my finger. Because they turned smoothly, my "maintenance " was done, and I reinstalled the wheel. I trust that wheel will go another 10,000 miles with no trouble.

The reason my bearings last is because I never sprayed them with wd40. That would penetrate the seal and damage the grease. I also never pry the seals off, because they were installed correctly at the factory and I don’t want to damage them.

In short, my bearings last because I do not ruin them by screwing them up. They are designed to be waterproof and go for 100,000 miles at 100 MPH carrying a load of 500 lbs each. And they don’t need no stinking maintenance!

Also, now that Terry has removed his bearings, he should throw them away. The correct way to install the bearing is to tap only on the inner race. Most pullers will remove the bearing by hooking the outer race and pulling it out. This damages the bearing, but that’s ok. A professional wrench never removes a bearing until he is ready to replace it. He knows that they need no “service”, and will pull the bearing off only because it sticks when turned with a finger. Then he drives a new bearing on using a tube that allows it to be pushed on by the inner race.

It is especially important to leave the bearings on a Torker alone. They are a unique size, and cost 30$ a pair. Most uni bearings are of a standard size that can be bought from any bearing supply for 2 $ each. If you want the bearings on your Torker to last 20 years, leave them alone ! Spray the uni off with a hose. Never blast a pressure washer at the bearings !

[UniGeezer]

@feel the light

A little maintenance can go a long way. In Terry’s case, all in the wrong direction.

I would strongly suggest avoiding anything you have ever read about bearing maintenance on this forum ! I have never came across such a band of fools with such horrid “luck” keeping such a simple device turning in my life.

I have a dual sport 600 cc 300 lb motorcycle in my garage. It’s wheels are held by an identical pair of bearings as is found on my uni’s. It is 20 years old and has been ridden 26,000 miles , much of it through mud and water 2 feet deep. Like most of the dozen motor cycles I have owned in the last 35 years, I have not had to replace the wheel bearings. I have a 450 lb honda that has 78,000 miles on it. When I last changed the tires, I checked the bearings by turning them with my finger. Because they turned smoothly, my "maintenance " was done, and I reinstalled the wheel. I trust that wheel will go another 10,000 miles with no trouble.

The reason my bearings last is because I never sprayed them with wd40. That would penetrate the seal and damage the grease. I also never pry the seals off, because they were installed correctly at the factory and I don’t want to damage them.

In short, my bearings last because I do not ruin them by screwing them up. They are designed to be waterproof and go for 100,000 miles at 100 MPH carrying a load of 500 lbs each. And they don’t need no stinking maintenance!

Also, now that Terry has removed his bearings, he should throw them away. The correct way to install the bearing is to tap only on the inner race. Most pullers will remove the bearing by hooking the outer race and pulling it out. This damages the bearing, but that’s ok. A professional wrench never removes a bearing until he is ready to replace it. He knows that they need no “service”, and will pull the bearing off only because it sticks when turned with a finger. Then he drives a new bearing on using a tube that allows it to be pushed on by the inner race.

It is especially important to leave the bearings on a Torker alone. They are a unique size, and cost 30$ a pair. Most uni bearings are of a standard size that can be bought from any bearing supply for 2 $ each. If you want the bearings on your Torker to last 20 years, leave them alone ! Spray the uni off with a hose. Never blast a pressure washer at the bearings !

What the hell man? Why are you bashing me? I only removed, cleaned and repacked my bearings ONCE after it fell into a chemical laden man-made pond! The result was that the bearings once again turned smoothly after that, and served my needs until i got NEW bearings from UDC about a week later. I now have a good supply of these bearings for future use, so I won’t have anymore need to take them apart. I would truly appreciate you not flaming me calling me and others a “fool”!

[harper]

@MuniAddict

I would truly appreciate you not flaming me calling me and others a “fool”!

Yeah. We’re not fools. We’re clowns.

[maestro8]

@MuniAddict

What the hell man?

FTL put together a well-explained post, as opposed to the usual hit-and-run flame posts we see here, and you take it personal? This man made a great argument for not maintaining bearings, and not the common-sense time-is-money argument, and you take it as a personal attack?

In a way, FTL is right. A lot of users on these forums are backyard mechanics with little formal training or textbook knowledge of the subject, and yes, we’re lucky that we’ve avoided screwing up many of our machines.

When a slip of the screwdriver in inexperienced hands leads to a $1000 screw-up then, yes, it was foolish to pick up the screwdriver in the first place. Luckily, our mistakes cost much less to fix. You can’t bag on us for trying, FTL, but as you did, you can educate us.

WTH back at you, Terry. This is about bearings, not you. Take a chill pill.

[UniGeezer]

@maestro8

FTL put together a well-explained post, as opposed to the usual hit-and-run flame posts we see here, and you take it personal? This man made a great argument for not maintaining bearings, and not the common-sense time-is-money argument, and you take it as a personal attack?

In a way, FTL is right. A lot of users on these forums are backyard mechanics with little formal training or textbook knowledge of the subject, and yes, we’re lucky that we’ve avoided screwing up many of our machines.

When a slip of the screwdriver in inexperienced hands leads to a $1000 screw-up then, yes, it was foolish to pick up the screwdriver in the first place. Luckily, our mistakes cost much less to fix. You can’t bag on us for trying, FTL, but as you did, you can educate us.

WTH back at you, Terry. This is about bearings, not you. Take a chill pill.

First of all mind you own business! You always stick your fucking nose into shit when it’s about me. You take a fucking chill pill! My posts were about bearing maintinence too and what worked for me! If that’s ALL his post is about, then don’t dis me personally dammit!

[UniGeezer]

@maestro8

FTL put together a well-explained post, as opposed to the usual hit-and-run flame posts we see here, and you take it personal? This man made a great argument for not maintaining bearings, and not the common-sense time-is-money argument, and you take it as a personal attack?

In a way, FTL is right. A lot of users on these forums are backyard mechanics with little formal training or textbook knowledge of the subject, and yes, we’re lucky that we’ve avoided screwing up many of our machines.

When a slip of the screwdriver in inexperienced hands leads to a $1000 screw-up then, yes, it was foolish to pick up the screwdriver in the first place. Luckily, our mistakes cost much less to fix. You can’t bag on us for trying, FTL, but as you did, you can educate us.

WTH back at you, Terry. This is about bearings, not you. Take a chill pill.

First of all Misstro, mind you own business! My post was directed towards “feelthelight”, NOT YOU! He’s a big boy and doesn’t need YOU to answer for him! You always stick your f##king nose into shit when it’s about me. You take a f##king chill pill! I’m sick of you man, period. My posts were about bearing maintinence too and what worked for me! If that’s ALL his post is about, then don’t dis me personally dammit!

[Det-riot]

@MuniAddict

First of all Misstro, mind you own business! My post was directed towards “feelthelight”, NOT YOU! He’s a big boy and doesn’t need YOU to answer for him! You always stick your f##king nose into shit when it’s about me. You take a f##king chill pill! I’m sick of you man, period. My posts were about bearing maintinence too and what worked for me! If that’s ALL his post is about, then don’t dis me personally dammit!

Terry, i usually try to not moderate people, but you need to calm down. FLT had a diffrance of opinion and you overreacted a little teeny bit, and someone called you out. Then you EXPLODED, you seem like a reasonable man. Pop in to MR if you need to rant and be angry, try and leave it out of RSU

[Goats_On_Unicycles]

Yeah, man…
let’s start talking about bearings again and forget this…

I use thick grease and it works wonders for me.

[hobo_chuck]

@harper

Yeah. We’re not fools. We’re clowns.

I hate you. I really do.

You’re a disgrace.

NOTICE:THIS IS DIRECTED ONLY AT HARPER AND HIS COMMENT!

[feel_the_light]

I hope my advice helps spazdude, and others like him

I was directing my post at him, that’s why I quoted him at the start.

As far as the “band of fools part”, I have no idea why Terry is so sure that must include him. LOL ! He is surely one of the better riders on the board, (and I am not) LOL ! What I was trying to describe is how a person that knows little, may ask 5 people who know less what to do, and then start fooling around with something that ain’t broke until they fixed it.

Having said that, I think fooling around with stuff is a great idea. If I had 10$ for every 100$ of stuff I’ve ruined, I could buy a new Shlumph and hire Kris himself to paint it pink and Paris Hilton to bring it to my door. When it comes to foolish ruination, I doubt there are many here in my league.

That said, I have saved enough money to buy a house, then fixed it myself. Bought a van for 200 $ in '76 and drove it for 120,000 miles and 11 years. Have rebuilt motorcycles, boats, and computers. The only thing I won’t do myself is dentistry and broken bones. Gotta draw the line somewhere .

So IMHO the uni is a fine place to start. Don’t stop there. Buy a van that doesn’t run for a few hundred dollars, spend twice as much as that on your tool box, and I bet you will end up way ahead eventually, but not every time.
I wish there was a way to fool around and learn without doing something foolish once in a while. A good place to start is to try not to work on stuff that isn’t broke ! LOL

Another thing about uni bearings, there is another way to screw them up. Take the wheel off to check them. I would normally do this only at tire changes. Turn the outer part of the bearing with your finger about 20 times. It should have a nice smooth feeling, with some drag, cause it’s full of grease. Assuming it’s good, when you put the wheel back on, it is possible on most uni’s to tighten the caps to much. You won’t notice it riding until they really crap out.

The trick is that the caps don’t fit on all the way, on most uni’s. So if you tighten it down to much, the cap will squeeze the outer bearing out of round, and this will make the bearing fail soon.

So spin the wheel when the caps are loose, count the spins. Then as you tighten the caps down, notice at which point the wheel does not spin as freely. Back off the cap nuts a bit until it spins free again, that should be about right. If that seems to loose to you, use blue loctite on the nuts, but don’t tighten it more cause you will warp the bearing.

There is no reason uni bearings should not last 20+ years with no maintenance at all. Spray the uni off with a hose, and avoid blasting the seals with solvent or pressure water and you should be styling a real long time.

[harper]

@feel the light

The only thing I won’t do myself is dentistry and broken bones.

Sissy. You haven’t lived until you’ve super-glued your own crown back on.

[feel_the_light]

I have one gold crown

And I doubt it will fall off, cause the guy who put it on likes to charge 900$ a pop. And he told me I can complain.

To Terry, slightly off the subject, but Terry is a hero here. I have watched his videos. As the weather grows cooler (it was 88 today!), I plan to go over Terry’s great video’s soon, put on lot’sa body amour (still to hot now) and try to free mount my 36. I really get a lot of encouragement from Terry’s success.

Terry, I hope you make more 36 vids. Being a great rider is rarer then being a great wrench. A wrench can make dreams possible, but it takes a rider to live them.