The drawing needs some numbers for reference so I’ll provide them here.
As I see it logically an asymmertric rim makes the spoke tension more evenly distributed than using an symmetric rim. But An offset of 2mm will not make the wheel fully symmetric (that will require much higher offset and probably create more issues than it tries to fix. As far as I can calculate you will need an offset of 11,5mm to make a symmetric build)
So “any” offset is probably better than no offset in this regard. Likely a fine choice of rim
Yes, unless you’re running a super wide asym rim you’re never going to get perfect spoke symmetry on a unicycle hub - the offset for the disk is just too great. A bit of rim asym is better than none though.
I’ve built a couple of wheels with Sapim D-Light spokes into LightBicycle carbon rims, you need to watch for spoke windup with these thinner butted section spokes, any twist will be more obvious with the CX Ray though given the profile. I’m not sure that aero spokes will have much actual advantage, but fair enough if you like the look.
I’ve been using Sapim Double Square nipples for the last few wheels I’ve built – as far as I remember that was a recommendation from Light Bicycle in one of their YouTube videos. If you do go with the Double Square nipples it makes a difference to the ERD so the spokes you get may end up being a bit longer. You probably get more thread engagement with these and you can do all the work from the inside if you want so you don’t scratch the nipple with the spoke key if you go with some nice anodised colour. You do need a special tool though.
I know the feeling … but unfortunately I’m still a bit undecided if I will order the new Schlumpf. I have the money … but it’s a lot of money for a single item. And I have nowhere to test/try a Schlumpf before ordering. Feel free to try to convince me to make the order
Btw. my plan (if I order) is to build a 29" like you, but probably just with a high-end alu rim. Carbon is nice but the ~100g that I lost by going from alu rim to a carbon rim on my 27.5" is honestly so little that I’m not sure it’s worth it / I can’t feel the difference.
I think it is a unique experience and challenge all of its own and also pretty frustrating too. But if I wanted an easy geared ride I’d take my Brompton out.
I have off days when my 200 series G26er scares me - but then Blue Shift at 29” is a dream to ride aside from one high speed UPD.
If you aren’t sure re a schlumpf then maybe gearing up a 27.5 would be more versatile and easier to get to grips on.
I personally see this as all about fitness right now. I work too long in front of three screens and need the adrenaline push of geared riding. I’m by no means a good rider. But I can ride and that’s why a G29er pulls me in.
I think the reason here for going carbon was more around stiffness of the wheel and I’m also plain curious.
I may back track to cut some costs and perhaps avoid complexity - but I’ll be also going tubeless for the first time in this so I suspect I’ll feel a good bit of difference from many angles
Something else to consider since you’re building something special: I was thinking of doing my next carbon rim build with a rim with no internal drilling for the spokes. That means the rim is ready for tubeless without faffing about with tape and it can’t possibly leak through the spokes. LightBicycle do that as an option on their rims.
Building the wheel is a pain since you have to put a steel insert in the nipple, insert them through the valve hole and position them into the actual spoke hole in the rim with a magnet, then replace the insert with the spoke without losing the nipple back inside the rim – but since you are getting a proper wheelbuilder to do the job for you that shouldn’t be an issue (except it possibly costing a bit more).
It does obviate my comment on double square nipples though
Edit – and you probably need to put some grease or anti-seize on the nipple head before you put it in since you can’t lubricate where it seats on the rim.
I’m about to pull the trigger myself on the also assymetrical Lightbicycle EN740 rim for my coming FlikFlok hub. Last thing I’m trying to decide still is offset drilling or centre staggered drilling (I don’t know if thats a choice on the 935s and if it’s not; which it comes with as standard)
The part where Light Bicycle say they typically use double square nipples is 2:04 into this video. Interestingly he says it doesn’t affect the ERD but I think I added a bit more on for them. I also have different ERD sticks; one set with standard nipples and one with double square (I got those sticks from Spokes From Ryan).
When looking for that video I came across this other LightBicycle video showing how to put the nipples in with a magnet when there are no centre channel holes (they also look to be using the double square on these but will obviously need to use a conventional spoke key):
The rim you have selected does not have the ordering option of “no centre channel holes” (check some of the Falcon Pro ones for an example). However if you ask them they can probably do that for you – unless there is some reason they need the holes, they just won’t drill them.
I built a set of Falcon Pro wheels for my gravel bike and found it a pain to get the tape to sit without wrinkles in the centre well because of the shape of it (tape from LightBicycle). I ended up putting electrical tape over that to get a good seal (the “proper” tape won’t deform into the spoke holes, which electrical tape itself supposedly does). I was going to do a Falcon Pro wheel for my 29"er as a “gravel” uni – hence my plan to do one without the holes.
I don’t think they were an option at the time. I think I’d go with them though, given this is Britain and being wet is kind of normal
If you go with alloy nipples you can get nice colours to compliment your uni and the decal colour on the rim. I don’t expect you’ll be taking this out on salty roads in the winter so alloy nipples will be fine I"m sure. The Falcon Pro rims I mentioned above have orange alloy ones to go with the rest of the bike – that bike stays inside in the winter though.
The rim on my Hatchet is a LightBicycle fat rim, I just used ordinary black brass nipples on that with Sapim Race spokes but put nipple washers under the nipple heads. I don’t know if that was a good idea or not – it is probably not necessary for sure, it was the first carbon thing I’d built though. That might be something else to ask Ryan the wisdom of.
Indeed that is right, they were used in a ‘normal’ wheel build though.
That was on a pretty shallow fat rim and I had a little bit of grease on them to stick them to the nipple so they didn’t fall off when I was putting the nipple in with the screwdriver. If you had enough grease on you might get away with the magnet not pulling the washer off – assuming it fitted through the valve hole – might be a bit tight for presta!
Anyhow, I haven’t used them on any subsequent builds.
Sadly I don’t know the answer to your question here. The 935 doesn’t appear to offer this. Are you building it yourself? If not then asking the wheel builder’s advice might be good.
I know that the Nimbus rims aren’t staggered but KH free ride rims (with holes) are.
Aside from going with an asymmetrical rim, I’m aiming to try and ape the design and sizing choice based on current unicycle aluminium rims - so that it matches that set up more closely as I don’t want it to feel like a bike rim on a unicycle.
Going to be fun receiving these bits and pieces over 2022