Assembling Torker LX

I can’t seem to attach the bearing caps to the unicycle fork on my Torker LX…it seems as though the bolts they gave me are almost too short. Any suggestions? Also, if I don’t have a tork wrench is it possible to guestimate when I am around 45 pounds of tork using an allen wrench?

The bolts have little tabs on them, which go into little slots on the frame to keep them from rotating. Make sure the tabs have dropped down into the slots. Also, the washer goes on the end with the nut, not the bolt; on the bolt end it would keep the bolt from dropping down into where it should go.

45 ft-pounds is pretty tight if you’re hand-tightening. Just crank down on it.

Ok thanks, I think I may hav emessed up on the positioning of the washer, so I’m gonna go try that out.

Any ideas on how to remove the washer from the bolt? It’s stuck way up at the top right underneath the bolt head and I cannot seem to get it to go down the spirally part of the bolt…argh so frustrating :angry:

you have to put the nut in the fork part of the bearing holder, then the bolts go up (so they’re upside-down) into the bearing cap and thru the nuts

Torker USA has a unicycle assembly manual at their site. It’s a PDF file.

Torker recommends 45 inch-pounds of torque on the bearing clamps. 45 inch-pounds is on the high side. Most people don’t have a little torque wrench that can measure that little torque.

My rule of thumb is to use just fingertip pressure on the allen key when tightening the bearing clamp bolts. If you make a fist around the allen key you will get it too tight. Just hold it by your finger tips. The bearing clamps just need to be snug. It’s going to be much less than 45 inch-pounds.

It is very very common to overtighten the bearing clamp bolts. It is very easy to do. Screws and bolts can generate a lot of clamping force with just a little bit of a turn. Just turning the bolts an additional half turn could way overtighten them.

If you have problems with the bearing clamp bolts vibraring loose you can use a little bit of light strength or medium strength Loctite.

Oh, sorry, 45 inch-pounds isn’t very much. 45 foot-pounds is quite a bit more, in the “whale on it with a long-handled wrench” category; that’s what you’ll need for the crank bolts, not for the bearing holders. For the bearing holders, it’s pretty light; usually I’ll finger-tighten them and then just give maybe one more full turn on each of the four bolts. Basically you should tighten them until you start to feel a bit of resistance, and not a lot more than that. Make sure the wheel still spins freely after you tigthen them.

this isnt rocket science fella’s. …tighten the bolts so they dont come loose. a properly tightened unicycle Bearing cap isnt going to spin like a freaking swiss precision bearing…

for unicycle sake, stop with the Torque wrench crap. maybe its just me but i got more torque meter in my forearm than any mechanical device when it comes to bearing holders.