Has that been positively confirmed then?
The website doesn’t make it clear they won’t work:
I absolutely love the BB7’s on all my bikes (w Speed-Dial Ultimate levers), so I’d like to know for sure if they aren’t an option, as that affects my purchase decision 
Thanks.
Avid hydros are nasty.
When you guys mention ‘squeal’ in general, is it actually a high-pitched squeal or more of a very deep low-pitched honk? If it’s without a doubt the latter then that’s quite normal on powerful disc brakes especially when the rotor/pads get wet and the grip does get more forceful than dry. From my experience that deep honk is a positive confirmation when you can feel the brake really trying hard to stop.
But yeah, if the brake specifically squeals at a high pitch and you can feel the rotor/pads have quite a bit of give then that’s not desirable.
There isn’t a whole lot of room between the crank and spokes; BB7’s are way too wide. Thinner mechanical calipers have been tried and they have all been found to be too wide for use with crank mounted or hub mounted discs on unicycles. See the first 3 pages of this thread for more: Disk Brake choice for new Nimbus hub
I tried a Tektro Aquila mech on a 26" uni with MountainUni disc setup, it was pretty close (another 2mm and I would’ve had it) but the clearance just wasn’t there. The Spirit crank arms look thicker than the Sinz to me (reducing clearance), though Spirit cranks have an additional 2mm of offset compared to Moments and Sinz so maybe the additional offset would cancel that out.
The only successful case I know of involved grinding down a no-name caliper for use with a square taper MountainUni disc setup on a 36: Mountainuni Disc Brakes Have Arrived!
My Tektro Auriga Comp Disc Brake with red organic “race” pads was “professionally” installed by Nurse Ben. 
There’s no squealing or honking and it has a real nice feel to it. I don’t know how much tinkering it took him to get it right, but I wouldn’t make any changes (other than a new Starfighter lever extension)…
Its a low honk
I just go my new 36’’ frame and Spirit cranks. I out the disc on and it does not clear the bearing holder. I guess I need to do some shaving. Any advice is appreciated. Also, does anyone have suggestions on good brakes?
Andy,
Can you use a thicker ISIS spacer on the spindle between the crank and the bearing?
Did you use spacers between the rotor and the crank?
@Chris Hubrick:
Feel free to try any mechanical brake you heart desires, it’s your money 
No spacers anywhere. I am afraid that if I put a spacer on between the crank and the bearing, that the crank will come loose.
Don’t all KH unis with non geared hubs come with spacers stock? I have 6mm spacers on all my unis. I wouldn’t worry about the cranks coming loose, they’re meant to be used with spacers, that’s the ISIS standard…right?
correct!
So, this is a Schlumpf hub. When you crank it to the specified 35 ft-lbs, it is all the way in with no spacers.
i wont hurt anything to use the spacers. they give the crank somthing to rest against!
People have and do use spacers with the schlumpf. Was needed with the mountain uni disc brakes
But the spacer puts pressure on the bearings and as such can wreck them
I found when using crank setter bolt and putting the spirit cranks on my schlumpf up to 45nm it was crazy tight on the right side
So much so I needed to file all the powdercoating off the side of the bearing housing and some of the weld to get the bolts to be able to turn
In tje end this wasn’t enough
So I restarted went a bit easier on the torque. Just 40 Nm. With cranksetter and I then used a dab of green loctite on the splines
Retightens after a few km. And all seems good
Personally I wouldn’t use a spacer
My solution
Oh, it’s a guni.
No spacer.
Grind the frame.
So how tight is too tight?
Yeah, no spacer… Grind away.
I just took a measurement. It looks like I’m going to have to take off about 2mm to get enough clearance. Right now, the rotor itself is about 1mm from the bearing holder. About 2/3 of the bolt heads overlap with the frame. 2mm will give the bolt heads about 1mm clearance or so. Yikes.
Measured again. Looks like 1mm from frame to rotor, and the rotor bolt heads stick out 3mm. So probably more like 3mm needs to be shaved off. I need to get a good metal file to get that much off. Seems like a lot. Maybe I need to set the crank again, and make sure I am at the low end of the specified torque.
What about grind down the rotor bolts a little so save the frame?
That wouldn’t change the rotor position. He would have to grind down the cranks and that would be a mess.
But it’s not clearance for the rotor which is the problem, it’s clearance for the bolts.