Yes, you can cover distance on a 24, but if you then try a 29 or 36er you know you cover so much more ground with just one pedal stroke! But i’ve done >10km rides on a 24, no problem at all, just slower.
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Yes, I’m third from right on my funky home made 36er, I can attest to spending thousands of dollars on my uni’s because I want them to be “mine”
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That’s a crazy unicycle.
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Crazy Good! Suspension and in frame disc.
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What are the benefits of the suspension?
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I ride standing in the “run” position, The seat follows me around as I run the muni and keeps it where and when I need it to steer. Its basically a suspension seat post. No big drop problems and pretty comfortable on long rides, but I can relax and sit fully on it if needed.
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Wow, they looks to be an amazing piece of engineering and looks awesome!
Would love to hear about how you came about building it.
Any more pictures?
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There are lots of them on this forum including the instructions and parts needed to make them.
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Well, my To-Do list just had an item added to it. I need to find those instructions and parts list(s).
Thank you!!!
Our youngest child just graduated High School yesterday, and I am often asked “What are you going to do now?”. I definitely have ideas today that I didn’t have yesterday. @lobbybopster ’s frames have always looked too daunting to try to tackle on my own. However, looking at the initial instructions, and learning that a person would start with a GT frame, it seems a little more manageable. It only requires time, patience, learning, and maybe a little trial and error, right?
Is it not strange having your seat to pedal height changing constantly?
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The frame is a parallel motion link. The seat tube is always in line with the axle so if I was always sitting on the seat it would change on large hits/bumps. But riding on that terrain I think you would be standing up to maneuver and using the seat to control and stear. After over twenty years of riding in comfort on these I’m satisfied that this works the best for my ride style.
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I got my 29. It’s going to take a few days to acclimate to the bigger wheel, coming up from a 19. It’s intimidating. But riding along the fence, I can feel the increased stability.
It’s a beautiful machine!
One thing I noticed was that the seats on both unicycles aren’t protected well at the back. All my crashes were wearing off the stitching due to the poor plastic bumper. I screwed on some quarter inch aluminum back there. That stuff is hard to bend.
Then the aluminum bumper was scraping the tennis court, so I glued on some leather.
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I agree, I believe there is room for improvement over the existing HDPE plastic replaceable bumper. With very little modification they could be made little thicker and wrap around the sides a little more so they completely protect the seat fabric. Maybe it is planned obsolescence, they would not sell as many saddles if they were made to stand up to normal use.
I was told when I was considering up-sizing from my 26 to a 36 that if I got skittish and put a 29 in my cart I would regret it. My chiropractor got me into unicyling and he says the only two wheels that really fit the skeletal geometry of the human body are the 24 and the 36. Needless to say - I got the 36.
Isn’t that new wheel going to be hard to ride in socks and with no pedals?
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That is an interesting comment, I have to ask what makes the 24 and 36 a better geometric fit than say a 29 or 32
I don’t see how wheel size changes fit geometry. Seat height above hub and crank length can be constant over various wheel sizes and those are the only things that come to mind to affect the geometry of how you sit on the uni.
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No idea how he came up with this other than riding every size uni there is over the years.
He did a ton of muni and long road rides.
I learned on a 26 - then up-sized to a 36 and never looked back.
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