Aero position and handlebar setup for 36”

Well, i couldn’t get any and I looked. The2 sets that came with the bar didn’t work.

Unlike Sam Wakeling’s set up below I don’t see much of an air resistance advantage but I like the added support on the front to take some of the weight off the saddle and to hold you back on the saddle.


I said it was nice with a headwind. I didn’t say anything about “air resistance advantages”.
It’s nice because I can lie down on my elbows in a stable position and just pedal - kinda like they do when in the pain cave.

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In a super strong headwind, especially with rain, I will place both hands onto the grab handle since I don’t have bars and just lean and do my best to approximate the aero position. It does help to streamline airflow a little, definitely noticeable.

This sounds like the best advantage of the aero bars, either in the full outstretched position (which I’m guessing requires a fair amount of training to attain) or in the more upright position - Spreading the load away from posterior must be a good thing, especially on long rides.

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The position I adopt in G36 (I don’t even have a profile picture…), it’s first of all to distribute the support points. It’s probably more aerodynamic, but at 30 km/h it’s more important to have good support to be more stable, more comfortable, to pedal harder, to go faster…

I would advise anyone who wants to switch to a “long handlebar position” to find a solution to stiffen the front end of the handlebar as much as possible. That’s why I asked @jaco_flans to make me a V-frame, it wasn’t to “slide under the wind”.

This winter I’m not riding my G36, I’m using a very light 36" with a handlesaddle L because it’s the stiffest long handlebar.

The rigidity of a long handlebar gives me more comfort to ride than the quality of the foam of the saddle.


I would stay home :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:


Just wanted to post an update.

Thought this might be helpful to anyone contemplating aerobars and also any feedback would be appreaciated.
I’m really happy with my current Aero position / handlebar set up.

From day one (April 2022) riding my KH36, I have had some sort of aerobar setup. Now I have done 500km commuting 14km to work and have trialled 5 evolutions affecting cycle geometry and my posture.

I feel the benefits of current setup is:
Balanced control enabling minimal affect on rolling resistance. Pushing hands forward causes me to slide my butt back along seat. Now my contact point to seat is off the groin.
Effectively, my back straightens (at 30deg to horizontal) and weight (not on feet) is evenly spead between hands, elbows and butt “bones” ( similar to riding a bike). This also allows aero position without back ache, which I did encounter if weight not spread well.

Previously, the standard KH36 seat was a nightmare and I bought a KH Freeride saddle. Now I’m back with the KH zero with seat angled max forward…so that it is not in the way when hill climbing.

With the forks angled slightly back, any potiential forward UPDs are mostly naturally counteracted. This was achieved by having the KH Tbar sleeve with clamp at forward side. I see that this is is a common setup on all the other aero position photos of others.

I must admit the aluminium bracing is not pretty but it allowed lots of adjustments with drilling and bolting and riveting.
Also I found that the cheap aerobars (free - thanks gockie) are great because I can put the KH handles on the sides to support my elbows (wearing elbow pads) and also as impact points for UPDs.

Recent test ride with above setup.
Lane Cove National Park, Sydney


Simplified my aerobar bracing. Using the fibreglass brace cut from an old surfcasting fishing rod.

It is just as rigid as the dual aluminium bracing. With time and training I don’t seem to need the firm lateral support of the elbow rests.

Im using the KH straight tee which is shorter than the 30 deg bent tee. I added an extension piece (razor scooter handle) with inner connection tube, so I can have the tee extend out past the minimum markings.

Anyone know of a good way to connect a 22mm. Diameter tube to the seat post. Better than what did?


Are you a sailor by any chance? The way you wrapped that inner tube around everything to hold it together reminds me of how I knew two knots(a simple overhand and my shoes) and sailed a Macinac race just tying everything a bunch of times and hoping it would hold. There’s an expression, “if you don’t the right knot, just tie a bunch of knots!”

Not sure it’s a great idea as I never finished it, but you or others could possibly find this useful for inspiration.
Most bike stems has an inner diameter of 1 1/8" (28,6mm) so with a 28,6mm-27,2mm seatpost adapter it’s a perfect fit. I assume most bike stems are hollow and they come in many angles.

My idea was to cut the stem short and drill through the side of the stem and the KH bar and put some bolt through to tie them together. You can see marks from the pipe cutter where I planned to cut the stem.

(I did not plan to keep the ursli bar mounted - this was mounted when I did the mock-up)

The reason why I did not complete the solution was that after making two quick attempt of drilling the stem with a cordless drill I figured that they were not very precise so before continuing to make more holes in the stem (maybe buying yet another) and before drilling the KH bar I would need to investigate a better solution to more precise drilling in round objects and then I did this instead and the kh bar went back to the shelf.


Raced Outrigger canoes (6 Person) in 2010s. The older canoes had the ama’s (2 beams connecting canoe to out rigger) attached to the canoe by lashings - strong binding and light.

I find old rubber inner tubes cut to strips of various lengths excellent for binding bits on the unicycle.

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