bike seat and idling??
Reviving this thread a bit. . . . .
I’m riding a modified KH Freeride saddle now It is narrower in the front and a little lower in the front too. The seat is feeling pretty good, but the funny thing is that I haven’t been able to idle consistently since I installed this seat. Anyone else using bike seats for distance riding have this same idling problem - or maybe its just me and my slightly abused taint?
Brycer1968
Bike seat with a T7?
I’m considering getting a bike seat for my 36’er with a T7 installed. Does anyone have any experience with such a set up, whether or not it is comfortable? When riding my 36’er I have at least 1 hand on the handlebar 99% of the time, although I don’t usually put too much weight on it. I plan on doing some distance trips this summer, and would like to see if I can find anything that’s more comfortable than the KH Freeride saddle.
I have been experimenting a little with bike seats and handles and think that it would be the way to go for long rides on a 36er.
If you have not already I would check out this thread. it has lots of good info on the bike seat/handle setup.
I would not recommend the T7, it is not a very good design and of poor quality. Maybe the KH handle that has been announced recently will be a better purchase. But that one only works for KH seats, so no bike seat possible then.
If you really want the bike seat (which I recommend) you may get better results by making your own handle bar from bicycle parts such as stems, seat posts, handles and bar ends and seat post clamps.
This is my handle bar construction, it works very well:
“Oh, Doctor, take away the pain but leave the swelling.”
There’s been a veeeeeeerrry long discussion about this here
My personal setup is on page 26
There’s lots of neat setups in that thread.
Totally forgot about that other thread. I’ll probably just buy one and test it out. I guess there’s no harm having a spare bike seat laying around. And I’m sticking with the T7 for now since I’m no welder and I don’t feel like paying to get anything custom made just yet.
You might regret that when you’re on a long trip in the middle of nowhere and your T7 suddenly breaks. It will happen, it’s only a question of when and where. It happened to me and to many others. In case you really do want to get a T7 I would suggest having it reinforced with some additional metal plates. If you do a search you’ll find pictures of that. But then you will need welding to be done.
By the way making my handle bar didn’t involve any welding. It’s all aluminum bicycle parts available at your lbs. You’d only have to make sure that everything fits exactly into each other. I had a lot of fun building mine up.
Intriguing…
Yeah, if you use a T7, you should weld some steel triangle supports on the front and rear vertical plates that surround the rails. I’m taking all precautions on mine, if you got to see the picture form the other thread. I haven’t done the welding yet, but it’s coming soon. In the meantime, I’ve done all sorts of other strengthening mods…and in the process built the first ever combination of a unicycle and a compound bow.
well, I couldn’t get the Zero saddle to mate with the Nightfox so…
Way better than that Nimbus Gell, but I might need to tilt it forward just a tad more.
Looks great. Which saddle did you use?
I can’t remember the model name but it is made by WTB, I have probably had it for a dozen years (mostly on my b*ke)
I have a Zero saddle mounted to a standard Shadow base. Isn’t the Nightfox saddle mount effectively the same thing?
Not quite, The Shadow base connects to the rear bumper bolts, the Nightfox connects to the rear seatpost bolts.
I am sure I could have made it work but it would not have been a nice low profile mounting. I do eventually want to make a nice big wheel that fills all that space under the frame 
Interesting, I wasn’t aware of that. Look forward to seeing your big wheel!
On a side note, it would be great if all the unicycle manufactures transitioned to using pivotal mounts for all saddles. It seems like such a good fit for our use case.
Oh no, please not! When I think back, which big differences even one degree in saddle tilting made for sitting comfort, the 6 degree pattern of the pivotal posts seems not to be practical.
We are all waiting to see it! 
What’s the biggest you think will fit (Allowing
I could probably fit a 54" wheel but plan to make a 48 for now, and by “plan” I mean “eventually get around to” it’s been on the back burner for a couple years.
There was a discussion a while back about this.
Pivotal seatposts seem to be designed with strong, simple, and light in mind, but mostly they’re used on bikes where the saddle isn’t used very much at all.
Someone proposed making the seatpost non-symmetrical by 3 degrees so you could at least get twice the adjustment points. I’m not sure why pivotal seatposts haven’t always been made that way. It just makes sense and would take very minimal changes to the design.
My favorite seatpost style is still the double bolt. You can tweak that sucker into whatever angle you want very easily and methodically. (by just loosening one side and tightening the other by the same amount.)
![P220409_21.27[01].jpg](https://cdn.unicyclist.com/uploads/default/original/3X/f/2/f20ac8c56d8e20f15ac0117efe0719eb6354e1ff.jpeg)
