36" Coker wheel never used. Light scratch/chip on paint. Cranks in picture were lost. Can include a pair of steel cranks. Pick up preferred due to high shipping cost. $120 OBO, or trade for a 19” or 29” aluminum frame in good condition
I am potentially very interested in purchasing your 36” Coker wheel. It looks like it has 48 spokes, which I’m fairly certain is exclusive to the steel rim version. Can you please confirm 100% whether or not the rim is steel? If you don’t already know, a magnet test should do the trick.
I think the hubs that go with these rims only take the cotterless cranks and I’m not sure if 48-hole hubs are even made anymore (or if you can easily get them anywhere). If anyone on the forum knows for sure, it would be great to have that information. However, I am potentially interested in this wheel regardless, since I have a particular need for it. Please tell me what town or city you are in or near, so that I can start thinking about the logistics of obtaining the wheel. Thanks!
Qu-ax still makes 48 holes hub with ISIS interface (I think) but they are 100mm spacing
Thanks, that’s a big help! I didn’t see them on UDC (USA, Germany or UK), but I did find them on the QU-AX website. It seems they only have them in red, so if I am able to obtain the rim I’m seeking, I guess I’ll have to build my unicycle in red to match the hub, lol.
Ok, now some questions for anyone with decent knowledge of 36” wheel building:
If I can obtain a 36” steel rim (hopefully the one being advertised in this post, if it is steel), and I intend to use it primarily for skatepark riding and severely banked turns, what can I do to make the wheel as strong as possible? I’m trying to figure out whether or not it would be worth it to rebuild the wheel with stronger spokes, assuming there are stronger spokes available now (please let me know), and the QU-AX 100mm ISIS hub (there don’t seem to be any 125mm 48 hole hubs available). What do you think? Is there anything else I could do (other than a great job of truing the wheel) to make the wheel as strong as possible?
Given the characteristics of the steel rim, are there any particular things you recommend that I avoid all together or do only to a minimal degree, such as: avoid drops over X inches or feet high, or perhaps not doing the extreme banked turns? Any feedback is appreciated, as I’m hoping to keep any steel rim 36er I’m able to obtain or build in rideable condition for as long as possible.
I am pretty sure the rim is made of 6061 aluminums, not steel. I know because I bought two and I welded the other one into an UW. I have no experience building wheels(except UW) so sorry I cannot give you advise. If you want to rebuild everything I think buying a rim (and a hub/spokes) from UDC probably make more sense. I live in Cupertino, CA
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I think the magnet test is going to be the only way to tell, I had a 48h coker rim in aluminium so thy were made. On the other hand it was also built by Coker for a sponsored Ride the Lobster team so that doesn’t necessarily mean much!
Even if the rim is aluminium, 48 spokes makes for a very strong wheel. Your plan of a 48h 100mm hub is exactly what i did with mine.
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If I’m not mistaken it’s more crucial that the spokes have even tension rather than the wheel being perfectly trued. Of course you don’t want the wheel to be a complete mess, but I would aim for even spoke tension, then true the wheel to “good enough” rather than the other way round.
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Ok, thanks for letting me know. I wasn’t aware of 36” aluminum Coker rims being made, so I appreciate finding out about that. No problem regarding the wheel building advice, that was just a question to anyone in the forum who might know something about that and feels like replying. UDC doesn’t sell steel rims, so that’s not an option for me. Good luck with your sale. I hope you find a buyer ASAP.