Canoehead not calender .
Some pedals have flats that will take a thin open ended spanner, typically 15 mm.
Some pedals have an Allen socket in the end that screws into the crank. This socket is then visible from the wheel-side of the crank. Put an Allen key in there and turn in the correct direction and you can unscrew the pedal from the crank.
Some makes of pedal have both. Here is a link to illustrate: Amazon.co.uk . The pedals have flats for a spanner, but also have the hex socket in the end that screws into the crank.
Personally, I find a spanner easier to use because an Allen key has less leverage and also may require care to avoid the spokes.
1 Like
Awesome I have never seen such a thing. What is the brand of pedal?
Incidentally i recently watched some of your videos on youtube. I hope to be riding at 70. Great job
1 Like
My pedals came on my Nimbus 36" and are Nimbus pedals.
Many pedals have the allen socket.
I Just looked at the pedals on my 26er, They are nimbus and they have the allen socket. I never realized it. I always used my pedal wrench. Thanks for the heads up
The fyxation pedals on my 29er also has the allen socket.
When I tighten pedals, I use a full-sized pedal wrench. It is designed so an average adult can apply the right amount of torque to the pedals . A puny little hex wrench doesnāt cut it, IMHO.
1 Like
Your probably right, I keep my unicycle.com pedal wrench in my riding pack. Works great flat and light.
I have a hybrid technique. I install my pedals very tight with a pedal wrench at home. Then when Iām out on the trail I lament the fact that I canāt get them loose with my small allen key.
Works for me 
3 Likes
LOL, nicely put. However, to be serious for a moment, you donāt need to do them very tight. The act of pedalling will tend to tighten them rather than loosen them. Thatās why they have opposite threads. Finger tight plus about 1/8 turn with a spanner is easily enough.
Yes, youāre right. I suspect the main reason that pedal wrenches have long handles is to aid in removing tight pedals rather than installing them.
That said, I have experienced the occasional loose pedal on my 20ā. It tends to see lots of hopping and idling and not much continuous forward riding.
1 Like
I also tried some dual hole cranks and for a while decided 140mm were nice on my 32". But as I also have some climbs on the routes I eventually got back to 150mm. In the end for me the stock length feels the best for me. Learning to ride the UW damaged my right knee. When riding uphill 150mm gives me fewer probs than shorter cranks.