Schlumpf hubs: general discussion

For the balance: practice, hundreds of miles with a lot of shifting will do the job.
The only tip I can give is using no shorter cranks than 150s until you masterise it.

For the break I use it when I want to shift from 2nd to 1st gear in a short distance, you have to slow down before shifting in low gear.
It also is better to shift in high gear when you are allready pedaling moderately fast, the transition is smoother.
Also the shifting process doesn’t necessary happen imediately, you have to wait for the shifting even if you have pedaled several strokes because it can still happen. The shifting only happens when the torque is low so it is a kind of random process.
Sometimes the shifting is perfect and you barely notice it.

In my experience, you can up-shift at pretty much any speed. Down-shifting is different. Keep in mind that your pedal rotation must increase quickly to match the new gear ratio. I like to slow down substantially before down-shifting. As mentioned, there’s a lag that you have to get used to. (Also, sometimes you may get an “incomplete” shift. I think it’s from not pushing the button hard enough. Anyway, it kind of goes into a freewheel, and that throws me right off. Does anybody else get that?) I still sometimes UPD off the front when down-shifting even when everything seems to be going smoothly.
Mostly, just do it a million times and you’ll get it. (pretty much like all the other unicycle skills :p)
Good luck!

Ok thanks. Good to know such things, before it arrives. So when it is in neutral, it is a way to learn coasting without having to leave the pedals with your feet. I’m still too chicken to take my feet of them while riding. :slight_smile:

No. There is no such “neutral” position.

Question about the hub… not the latest, but the very first iteration. I have the opportunity of perhaps getting hold of a first generation hub for a decent price. It’s been fully serviced by Florian. I know the main difference is they have smaller bearings. Any other problems or weaknesses I should be aware of? In other words, is it a good ticket into Guni, or should I just avoid it at all cost?

Technically the 2016 model is about the 4th generation:
First: some bearing durability issues, quite a few returns.
Second (year or so after initial release): bearing durability issues fixed. Hard to tell the difference from the First gen visually.
Third: dust cap added, bearing durability further increased. This is a fine and durable choice unless you plan to run a disc brake, in which case you’re better off with the 2016 model.
Fourth: 2016 model

Didn’t know about the two first models, sn is 0133, so I guess it’s not an early early one.
Why would a disc brake be a problem on an non-2016?

The previous model pre-dated the advent of disc brakes and required some frame modifications to make it fit. It’s a bit of a hassle; easier to just use a disc brake.

One of the major upgrades on the 2016 was to lengthen the axle slightly so that it matches that on the Spirit and Nimbus hubs, and add a spacer to the outside of the bearing (plus a design adjustment so the bearing wasn’t subject to lateral loads). That means you can switch out the geared or ungeared wheelsets in an external disc brake setup without problem.

The hub pierrox is talking about is this one:

According to this post : 📜 [Wiki] Schlumpf hub serial numbers reference - #421 by gmerick

So if the M133 has been replaced by the M0233, where the hell is supposed to be the M133?
By the way M00133 = M133?

And finally which generation is the M133 from the pic?

M0871 has a new home!

Here are my first impressions of M0871, installed into a 19" trials wheel and a Nimbus Equinox frame.

I ordered the hub directly from Florian and had it shipped to Silva Cycles in Campbell, California. They installed it into the Nimbus Equinox frame. Perhaps I was not clear enough in my correspondence with Silva, because I wanted 137mm cranks, and they installed 137/165 DH cranks. Also, I wanted the stock seat which comes with the Equinox, which is the Nimbus Street Saddle (last time I looked), and they sent it with a Nimbus Gel Saddle. I also wanted a 300mm seat post, and they sent me a 250mm seat post. It turns out, after taking the thing for a ride, I’m not upset, at all, but rather pleased/intrigued by the changes to my order. More on that, later.

My first impressions are probably as run-of-the-mill as one would expect from a first-time Schlumpf rider. I started by manually placing it in high gear, then proceeded to miss my first couple mounts. Once I mounted seat-in-front, I was able to ride away, and it didn’t take long to static mount in high gear. Of course, it felt really weird, and I was slightly put-off by the small amount of play which I understand is normal in the Schlumpf hub. I rode up and down my street a few times. Then I stopped, shifted into low, and that’s where the big surprise happened: After only a couple minutes riding in high gear, low gear seemed ridiculously low; the lack of pedaling resistance was off-putting. I was not expecting that.

I wanted to practice shifting, but I didn’t feel like dropping my baby on the street, so I took it to an undeveloped, dirt/weed area adjacent to my neighborhood. I wasn’t ready to shift while moving, but I succeeded, with pretty good consistency, at shifting while in a still stand. I have U.S. size 13 shoes. Using this method, though, resulted in different amounts of slippage from one shift to another, some involving a small click-into-place, and others involving a significant free-rotation of the pedals, followed by a UPD. I was more successful down-shifting from a standstill, than I was up-shifting.

I rode down a moderately steep, off-road hill. In some ways it felt like riding a big wheel with shorter cranks. This being a new experience, I was working a lot harder, and I was sweating pretty hard. Then I rode up a long-ish, paved hill, in high gear. I was surprised at how fast I got up the hill, as well as how strenuous going up the hill was.

There was a limit to what I could climb, in 1.5 gear / 137 cranks. I’m going to swap to the 165mm hole in the DH cranks tomorrow and see what hills I can make it up in both gears. Pedal strikes may be an issue; I will find out. Low gear will be even more ridiculously low. Regarding the seat, I’m planning on taking longer rides, so it turns out I’m happy with the softer, Nimbus Gel Saddle. And the seat-post: I didn’t need a 300mm seat-post; the 250mm seat-post, combined with the long-neck frame, gives me as much seat-height as I can handle.

So, thank you Silva Cycles, and thank you Florian! I understand this is not a very practical use for the hub, but my interest is mostly learning how to use the thing, and using the thing in lots of different situations (even if none of those situations are exactly “optimal”). I’m going for a ~10 mile mUni ride on it this weekend. It’s too early to say what my ultimate feelings are about the Schlumpf geared hub installed in the 19" street/trials unicycle, but the first hour was awesome!

schlumpfMobileResized.JPG

On earlier models you have to install the spokes in the right direction.
see http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1377511&postcount=125

This morning I changed the cranks on my 29" from 150mm to 127mm. I had done that a few months ago, but didn’t like it. Now it felt really good and did a 10km ride, which was very comfy.
How does that relate to riding a high gear. Next week or the week after I will get my new KH29 geared Schlumpf. Is high gear 150mm still going to be faster than 127mm no gear?

The better option is to have dual hole 127/150 cranks.
Yes you will probably be faster with 150 on a G29 than with 125 on a ungeared 29er, not necessary at the beginning.
150 is what you want to learn with, and maybe after about one or two hundreds of miles/km in 2nd gear with the pedals on the 150 hole you’ll give the 125s a try in 2nd gear.
The hardest thing is to get the balance which is weird at the beginning.
I have tried 137s, then 127, then 137 again and finally bought 127/150 spirits and since I have been staying on the 150 hole.
With 127s it felt weird, easier with 137 but still not so easy to manage.
Much better with 150s.
When you start to get relaxed in 2nd gear, it becomes easier to pedal and to keep balance.

150mm high gear is way faster than 127mm ungeared. Also way harder to control, almost impossible to idle, tricker to hop.

For my daily commute I nearly always take the 29/110 over the geared 29/150.

If I’m road racing I go geared 29/125.

I like that…
I can’t idle at all, whatever unicycle I use. For now I don’t need to be able to. Just riding on whatever surface is fun enough and I’ve been putting some more focus on hopping. I don’t know how the geared uni will do for me riding off-road, maybe I want to handle it with care, since it’s an expensive machine and only ride it on asphalt.

I use my geared 29er off-road, but almost exclusively in low gear except on super-easy stuff. (I use high gear getting to/from the trail).

I just did a major re-configure of my geared 26 commuter.

After swapping the studded winter tire for a summer one it rolled so much faster and the 137s felt a bit long. I decided to throw on 127/150s and at the same time swapped my conventional fusion freeride with a long handle for a Zero with no handle. The thought was to go with a minimalist setup primarily for MUni using the 150 holes but have the option of 127s for a road ride.

I spent the night in the city Friday night and in the morning rode with a friend to her work. 12km and windy as, other than the wind it went really well.

I was worried about riding without the handle but it turned out not to be a big deal, and I really liked using the 127s with the moderately fast rolling tire. The wind took a lot out of me and I had to ride a few sections in low gear but with the shorter cranks it didn’t feel as silly as with the longer cranks. It was the first time I felt that both gears were really helpful on a commute rather than just high gear.

The Zero saddle I am not quite sure about yet. It didn’t feel too bad on the way out but the first 3-4 km on the way back I was a bit tender before numbing. I like the slimmer profile but the Zero might require padded bike shorts to be truly comfortable. I started with one spline visible at the back but tipped it up one more notch after a while. I also lowered the seat a bit more than I would have with a regular saddle.

OMG!!! How do you fly this thing???

I just came back from my first ride practice with the 29 Guni (KH).
It was both hellish and amazing all together.
It took me about 10-15 minutes to get on this thing (freemount) and actually being able to ride. It felt as if I was in a parallel dimension in which I do not really know ride unicycle…
After I managed to ride a bit and felt really confident in what I was doing it was pretty good but still kind of stressing.
The weird thing (and I’m sure you all been through this) was that when I reverted the gear back to 1:1, it took me several minutes to be able to freemount - an action that I could do while I was even asleep in the middle of the night with my eyes closed… it really blew my mind.

Can anyone please calm me down and tell me I’m going to be alright with this?

Thanks :):):slight_smile:

Wellcome to the schlumpfth dimension :smiley:

I experienced the same …