Hey Guys, I just wanted to show you my Coker with the new Nimbus frame and T7 handlebar with HS33’s and a Speedo:)
Theres a few problems as the Nimbus frame isnt meant for the smaller Hub so when i forced it on it pulled the bearings against the cranks(As In Picture 3), its fine for the moment just need either some washers or a new hub hehe I don’t mine the metal grinding on metal noise that much.
It rides really smooth and the new Kris Holm Freeride Fusion saddle is amazing, props to Kris for that one!!
Anyway to the Pictures (Sorry for the poor quality they’re taken on my phone):
Cheers, Yeh it is, it was about an inch too wide for the one i have but i bent the frame in a bit so it would fit and in doing so it pulled the bearings out but it seems to be ok. yeh i think im going to have to upgrade to the wide hub.
Yeh i think i may have too Pete, nothing too massive tho. I need Kit to take a look at it and do a service as its a bit sketchy on the hub.
I had to do the same thing when I got the wide hub but with the stock frame, only I had to bend the frame out to fit it…anyway, I’ve been thinking about getting the Nimbus frame for a while and so I was wondering that. Thanks man!
I’m going to have to upgrade to some smaller cranks too as the seatpost is the smallest it can be and I can only just reach the pedals, I’m running 150’s cranks so may get some 125’s-130’s or something.
Yeh, I’ve cut about 5" off it and if u see on the picture it doesnt go any lower because of the rail part of the seatpost and handlebars. its as low as it goes.
joe, i think he ment off the top of the frame, not the seat post. if you get the 125 cranks i think you might find the hills round us quite tricky! Kit has just changed back to 150s for that reason and he does a lot of distance riding.
This is exactly what I meant; sorry, i should have been more clear! You can safely cut quite a bit off of the seat post frame part. My girlfriend’s has her seatpost clamp nearly touching the area where the neck increases circumference.
This thread has perfect timing! I too just finished “finalizing” (for the time being :)) my N36.
I went with Bell’s “EZ Fit” speedo (it’s a wired version) since it only costs $7.50 (US) at Wal-Mart, so if I destroy it I won’t shed any tears. It’s got a small bell from REI, which silentspoon appreciated as we rode some crowded paths in Denver last weekend. I just finished the installation of the brakes, and haven’t taken it out after that install yet. I cut about 1 cm off the tip of the brake handle and canted the whole assembly in so it doesn’t hit the ground before the handlebars/seat/wheel/pedals do (the “envelope of protection” those components supply).
I’m really happy with the routing of the brake cable, it tucks in nicely under the seat and won’t be subjected to impact since it’s entirely within the protection envelope. The little saddlebag on the back is a medium Cannondale Seedpod (http://www.cannondale.com/accessories/06/model-6B501.html) and contains a b*ke lock and a small tool.
I know this has been asked before, (btw that is a sweet looking handle), but has anyone ever been hit by the protruding prongs in a UPD? I can imagine while road riding one would not crash very often (idealy), however in learning to ride the larger wheel there is always the possibility…
I too was worried about learning with the T7 handle. So what I did was upgrade to the T7 handle when I ordered the Nimbus Deluxe (http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=962). This upgrades the seat post to a rail-type. I also ordered a KH rail adapter (http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=811). When the ‘cycle came in, I immediately removed the T7 handle and installed the KH adapter and learned/got comfortable with that, then went back and installed the T7 a week or so later. The T7 might occasionally knock you in the inside of your legs from time to time on a UPD/crash, but other than a small bruise now and then I haven’t seen an issue. You certainly don’t get tangled up in it unless you UPD forward and don’t let go (not that I’ve done that :)), but that’s self-correcting. I did bend the heck out of the bottle rack one time on a UPD but I don’t know how.
I think the T7 has more of a psychological scare factor to it than anything real. Put some cheap grips on it first thing to protect it and you should be OK. Go with the KH rail adapter on the seat if you want to be conservative while learning.
No. And believe me, if anyone was going to be hit by them it would be me. Intially when I got mine, I got hit a couple of times by the back prongs when mouting with assistance but I soon got used to it.
Roaky, yours looks fab. Indeed it is set up very similar to mine, except I haven’t got a cycle computer. I’ve even got a little bag like yours, except it’s a bit bigger - to fit in my camera. Oh and mine’s painted lilac. But apart from that …
Great set up.
The Bell EZfit computer is dirt cheap and fits perfectly on 14g spokes. I don’t know how it’d fit in 12g spokes. I can’t find anything on the Bell web page on the computer except its instruction manual (http://www.bellbikestuff.com/pdfs/EZFit_Manual.pdf).
At $7.50 on this side of the pond, the price was right for something that could get destroyed.
Thanks! Don’t worry, I won’t be a threat to you cornering the market on lilac N36es :).
The thing is wonderful to ride, though I’m only up to a couple of miles on it so far…
Ahh I see, cheers Corbin I may have to do that tonight:) .
WOW Roakey, thats one sweet 36er, whats it like with the seat at that angle is it comfy still? I’m still trying differant positions trying to find one thats right for me.
I’ve not had an UPD yet(touch wood) but when I do i shall let you know if I hit the handle because I was worrying about that too.
I’ll bet that’s a sight.
