Here’s one.
The slotted tube can be flipped either way, depending on what you want - I put the seatpost clamp facing forwards if the bar is extended, and backwards for this setup so I can move the T-bar as close in as possible. As mentioned above, the bar width was cut narrower to 120 mm width, to avoid my knees. It also brings the brake lever closer to your fingers, making it less tiring to grab.
The photo shows a set of carbon fibre bar ends. The stock setup is good, but I like these ones too. They are too expensive to ever be part of the stock setup though.
Best is to set it up approximately what you want, and then take a hex key on the first ride and adjust it until it’s the orientation you want. Canting the bar up and the bar-ends down slightly moves the lever closer to your fingers. Also, tightening the angle adjustment and bar ends enough to stop movement, but not so much that they won’t move in a bad crash, significantly helps resistance to breakage. The setup feels stiff to use, but likely has slight elastic flex in a crash which also helps avoid brittle failure. So far I have dropped it lots of times without a problem.
K.
