With 1000 USD what coker would you buy/build

For ride the lobster i want to put together a 36er for a. Ride the lobster and b. for long distance in general.

I want a brake and handle for sure. In terms of comfort and distance what would you guys do with 1000 to build a coker?

I forgot to mention that I was also wondering if I was to go with the new coker big one, v2 or the 36 nimbus, what upgrades would I want to make

better pedals (sealed pinned ones)

different crank lengths maybe?


with 1000 budget you might be able to afford a triton sponge frame for it.

Bladed spokes.
Aero helmet.
Body fairings and a speed suit.
Custom molded seat.
Nicer pedals.
Mini flame stickers for your outfit.

Bla blabla.

Where do you live? To get my N36 into Canada it ended up costing me just about $300 between shipping and duties.

I have the Nimbus 36 with Airfoil rim, SS spokes and T7 handle. All and all, after shipping it ended up costing me around a grand.

I also originally got it with an air seat, couldn’t make it comfortable for rides longer than an hour so ended up replacing it with a KH fusion.

If you are new to the 36er world like I was I would also suggest getting a variety of crank lengths. 150s were good to get the feeling of the bigger wheel and I still use them for riding on XC trails and fooling around in the skate park every once in a while but 125s or smaller are better for on the road.

I am happy with my Nimbus but I can’t compare it to anything else as it is the only 36 I have ever ridden.

Good luck with whatever you get and I hope to see you in Nova Scotia!

Hey yeah I’m in Toronto, and I definetely have been pissed off by duty and shipping charges as well. I think maybe my best bet is to order a new coker from Darren. Im wondering if the weight difference between the v2 and big one is substancial enough to go with the big one. I like the squid style frame.

Does anyone have any information on a "triton sponge’ 36er built up (as mentioned above).

Do you want off-the shelf bits?

For $1000 either the new Aluminium Coker or The Nimbus is probably Ok.

You’d probably need more than that to customise your frame.

If I was to build a Coker for RTL (and had a slightly bigger budget than $1000), I’d go for a V-frame design similar to Pete Perons Red Menace or Purple Phaze. That will get you a good handlebar position, stiffness, and set-up like a bike.

Otherwise you could email Triton and see if they can make you a Ti 36" frame. Doesn’t cost all that much.

I personally would build up something like this:
Airfoil rim
Quax Tyre- shaved for weight
29" tube or tubeless
Stainless Steel UDC spokes
Nimbus Splined hub (no wide hubs here!)
Quax splined alloy cranks in 100mm, 114mm, 125mm (maybe 145mm for an extremely hilly section)
Custom Ti frame or V-frame. Otherwise Std Coker Alloy frame. I think the Nimbus only takes wide hubs.
Alloy seat (std)
CF seatbase, Fusion Freeride saddle parts on top
GB4 or Std Handle. Also option of T7 handle with the back cut off.
Snafu sealed pedals (not the lightest, but I like them)


With $1000 (USD) I’d get a £489.54 Coker.

Where can you get the Quax Tire (It’s not on UDC US)

Can you get it to stretch that far, also how wide is this tube and how would you make it tubeless

Thanks in advance,

Yes, a 29er tube will stretch that far.
Here’s how to do it: Livewire’s instructions for installing a 29er tube on a Coker

It is lighter. It does change the feel of the wheel and tyre. Reliability can be good or bad depending on the particular tube. If you end up with a tube that doesn’t have any thin spots when overinflated you’ll be doing good. It’s hit or miss on that though.

Pack a spare Coker tube (the real 36" tube) with you if you go on a long ride where you don’t want to end up walking home or calling a cab to get home.

The new big one looks great, is there any disadvantage or advantage in the multiple tube (like the V2 or nimbus) 36er frame? Besides weight does it effect balance?

Wait for the Canadian unicycle supplier to open up and buy from them.

Otherwise I would go with something similar to what I have now if you can.

Here is my beast:

KH Freeride seat (50)
Standard seatpost (may change it to alu rail post for the tour) (12)
Coker frame (painted purple and lime green) (50)
TA tire (90)
Bontrager 29" tube (5)
Drilled (through one wall) airfoil rim (150)
14g stainless spokes (25)
Axiom double jump magnesium pedals (50)
Qu-ax 125 mm cranks (20)
Standard mini hub. (free for me but probably another 30-50)
Wheelbuild (30)

The prices are approximations but it all works out about right. So thats about 500 bucks Canadian. With the leftover money you can get yourself one of those carbon fiber super seats, a T7 handle and a sweet seatpost!

By Qu-ax tire he meas the Wheel TA tire from udc. They were the original manufacturers.

No they don’t, only two of the triton sponge frames have been built so far and they’re both 20"ers. However triton will build you a 36 frame on the same lines if you want one, see the thread in RSU.

This one!

GB4 36" frame
Stockton World’s Strongest Coker Wheel
GB4/U-Turn prototype touring handle
Tri-tapped Kooka cranks (thanks PDC!)
Snafu pedals
“Mutt” airseat…combination GB4 plate, U-Turn construction
Magura brake (now thankfully un-installed, which brings the price back below $1,000)

What would I change?

–I’d swap the GB4 frame for a Hunter 36 to eliminate the thigh/crown strikes (already done)
–I’d ditch the Magura brake…the brake is mine enemy (already done)
–I’d ditch the GB4 stiffener plate and go with a CF base and Wallis Road Relief Saddle (not done yet, please please please Scott!!!)

ms tb sized.jpg

–But I like the GB4 frame and have no issues with rubbing on the crown.
–I like my brake. The brake is my friend.
–If you get a KH style Gemcrest CF base and a KH Fusion saddle to cannibalize I’ll make you a CF saddle with the Fusion foam and your one of a kind handle. You just have to promise me beer and good music.
–My Coker is better cause it is black… the color of Guinness and espresso.

Essentials (as far as I’m concerned) include a saddle that you find comfy (preferably having tried it out in advance), a touring handle (the T7 works well for me, and helps for carrying bottles) and some decently grippy pedals.

Beyond that, you’ve got a choice of tyres (Coker, TA, and eventually the Coker ribbed tyre). I’ve only ridden the TA, which I bought because my research suggested it was the most well regarded for road riding (but people will argue with that!) but I do think it’s a lovely tyre.

Most folks recommend an alloy rim. Some prefer 36-spoke rims for various reasons. They do have the advantage that they’re easy to lace to a Schlumpf geared hub if you wanted to add that. Road riders seem to like the narrower, rather than the extra-wide hubs.

Other handy things are a cyclometer (just a cheap one will do, although I sometimes wish mine had a backlight!), lights (easily mounted on something like the T7) and a bell (I got a bell with a floating compass in, which could be handy to see where you’re going).

Something worth considering: spend some of that money on upgrading the rider. Or more specifically, your clothes and kit: get a decent helmet, consider getting a helmet mirror, some goggles if you’re going to ride into strong wind, consider some cycling shorts / trousers and good riding shoes.

The multiple tube design makes the frame stiffer, which helps when you are dealing with the force of a brake. Also, you are able to lock your unicycle frame with a bike lock with multiple tubes(I usually just lock my wheel and don’t lock my frame since I have the standard frame). I don’t know how much it helps though, and it might not be worth the extra weight.

Also it allows the crown to be narrowed to reduce the chances of you catching our inside thigh on it, particularly important if you’re short.