I have a basic nimbus 24 muni and an oracle 29, so I can build a wheel with spirits and the standard hub in 24, 26, or 29.
My favorite wheel for all around riding is the 29 because it rolls obstacles so well. I don’t want to build a small wheel only to find that I want a bigger wheel later on
However, if l build a 24" for the nimbus, then I won’t care if it hits the ground a lot
I’d like to think a bigger wheel would be more stable when coasting, as it seems it is for folks coasting the 36ers
Spirits are ISIS only as far as I know. You could do SINZ cranks but the smallest seems to be 135mm which might work on a larger wheel like a 29. You’d also need a 5 bolt rotor like from MountainUNI. I also have concerns about an outboard rotor. I rest my right leg against the frame considerably.
I’m sure some people learn to ride a unicycle starting on a larger wheel like 29" but it’s more difficult than starting smaller and moving up.
I’m not sure about this. We should ask Corbin since he brake coasts different size wheels. It’s possible the answer is different with your feet on the pedals. With a bigger wheel you may have more momentum but less leverage. I have 13 unicycles including an ultimate wheel and BC wheel so I’m more inclined to just try it than work it out theoretically. My instincts are usually off.
Okay, so that’s guidance point one, and since I already have everything I need to build up the 24"’, l suppose that’s the answer, unless I build a 26" and buy a second frame…
I also wonder if the bearings can be swapped for 42mm or will I need shims.
@ waalrus,
Do you have a 24" uni? A d’ brake converssion is really simple and it would be less expensive.
This is why I shouldn’t speculate. I found hopping with feet in the usual position fairly normal with the brake fully engaged. However, one slip and you’re toast at a very inopportune moment.
I have a spare 24" Nimbus X frame that might work and a full 24" Nimbus II. I suppose I could always get an Oracle frame later on. The X has 40mm bearing caps, too. If you want to get a 24" wheel built with the disc freewheel hub I could either pay for it or buy it from you when you’re done with it.
I’m going to go as cheap as possible
, so the plan is to rebuild my 24" muni wheel with the tryke hub, buy some 150 & 125 cranks, use my extra brake and spare d’ brake, so I’ll be in for less than $150.
This will give me a dedicated coaster in a size that is easy to ride & closer to the ground for upd’s
Awesome! Are you ordering from UDC UK? I have some video that might be useful for getting started but you may develop a technique that works better for you. I’m stoked to be able to compare notes with someone else. I recently found that keeping the brakes engaged enables you to get through a bumpy off road section. Also, occasional touching of the brake can bleed enough speed to let you keep pedaling when otherwise you would have to brake coast.
Yes. I sent an email to Roger asking about the hub, spacing, bearings, etc… so as soon as I get a response I’ll place the order. I’ll build the wheel as soon as the hub arrives.
It should be interesting
My wife says this freewheel uni thing is just plain dumb, but then she still thinks my unicycling habit is stoopid (after five years), so there’s nothing new there
I went on 36er road ride wth around 2K vert. in the first half, and then it’s mostly back down for the second half. If I’d had a freewheel, it would have been even more epic than my smoking brake pads. I passed a biker doing 35+ mph, on a uni that’d be awesome.
So you all know that this is gonna be one squirrely ride off road, kinda like playing soccer on ice without cleats
I’m just wondering how to mount the thing…I guess with the brake locked out.
I have this vision of smoking down a hill like an eighteen wheeler who missed the sign saying steep grade ahead, flames licking my ankles from the burning brake pads, big grin on my face as if I didn’t know what would happen next…
Hey Roger, read my email and let me know about the hub, I want to order it today!!
