I have a KH36, which disc brake do you recommend? UDC has a few, they all need a mount for KH. Is this the IS mount?
Yes, the most recent generation of KH frames (2012) has the IS mount and is disc ready. Older KH frames require the addition of a disc caliper mount such as the Nimbus D-Brake.
Martin
Check out the disc brake reviews, there are a few that work well, I’m using the MT2, I like them BUT the adjustment that adjusts the distance between the leber and the mount has failed on both brakes.
Shimano makes excellent brakes, esp the new stuff, check out MTBR for reviews, look on Ebay for best price or Pricepoint.
I’m partial to the 200mm rotors 
Shimano FTW, I have never had a issue with any shimano break ever.
I used a Magura 180 disk and a schimano brake assembly. Was great until I added a schlumpf then it took a whole afternoons machining to adjust the the frame to fit 
there are mechanicals and hydraulic disc brakes out there
the mechanicals seem to be earier to maintain into the long term from what Ive read (i have no experience with these at all)
but these tend to be larger, and so certainly have clearence issues with a unicycle.
I have read in places on forums about peole getting them to work. but to keep it simple avoid mechanical disc brakes
in the hydraulic brakes. most fit and work well.
but again there are some broad categories
some use DOT4 hydraulic liquid
others use mineral oil
DOT4 is pretty commonly used, but is not very nice stuff. its corrosive and can do you serious damage if it gets in your eyes.
this is very unlikely to happen other than when doing stiff with the brake ie bleeding .
if in doubt and not sure about bleeding i would go for a good brand. mineral oil brake
one break to look at is a water bleed elixir
Mike…
I’m glad you asked this question, because I’m in exactly the same boat; I want the benefit of the brake, but when you start to talk about the disc, things seem to get complicated quickly. My own situation is exacerbated by an almost total lack of mechanical aptitude. Even when I was racing, I always paid others to deal with the nuts ‘n’ bolts of maintaining my bikes. I can change tires, wash and lube and that’s where it ends. :o The thought of “machining a frame” is the sort of thing that sends me screaming into the hills.
Is putting a disk brake on a new KH36 really all that mysterious a process, or could someone who is happy with their setup just post a shopping list for lazy non-mechanics like me–something we can take to UDC and say “I’ll have one of these, please.” I’m sure I’m just being naiive, but it seems like the whole thing should be easier than this… 
With a normal hub. It is pretty simple
You will need
Either a 2012 and later KH frame ( with disc brake mount)
Or a d’brake adaptor (or mountain uni version)
Spirit cranks (or mountain uni sinz cranks)
Disc of your choice and bolts
caliper of your choice
IS to post adaptor (front) corresponding to your disc size
Some brakes come as a kit and may have the adaptor, but i wouldnt count on this, they can be bought from online retailers pretty easily and are cheap
The machining and modding is (mostly) when schlumpf hubs are in play too
Beware, there is not enough clearance to use a mechanical disc brake, hydraulics just barely fit in most cases.
Read the reviews on the internet, then search Ebay, buy a set and keep one as an extra or sell it.
Some brakes are harder to bleed and shorten lines, Avid is a toughie, Magura and Shimano are easier.
It’s easy, but keep in mind that this is a “retrofit”…, the hardest part would be if you have to adjust the caliper using thin washers or worse case having to do some filing/grinding. Adding a crank based disc brake is a little more “touchy”, but some people prefer doing it that way vs changing hubs. The hub based rotor is plug and play.
FLP and NB: Thanks, exactly what I needed. :o
I asked UDC which they recommended. Josh called and left a message that he would explain it to me. I will call him tomorrow.
very cool…let us know, Mike. thx. 
A biased $.02
A slightly biased $.02 from a fellow rider, and disc brake enthusiast. 
I spoke with Josh about the brakes. He said any of the three brakes they sold were good, what else could he say. The Bengal is being discontinued because they changed something, I can’t remember. That kit was white and very long, it was last on my list. The magura line is shorter, for using under the seat, the shimano is longer and will fit out on a t-bar. The site said KH mount not included, this was the under seat mount for the master cylinder. I thought it might have been the IS mount, which is included. I ordered the shimano and 137/165 cranks. I’ll let you know if it is as straight forward as they claim.
Good choice, the Shimano is pretty durable and works well, I have one left over from a jump bike, only thing you need to watch for is if the C Clip pops loose and allows the glunger to pull out. This more or a muni issue as the brake gets jarred a lot from the uni hitting the ground.
I really like the MT2 for braking and the ease of pulling the pads, but the lever design is no good. The adjustment on the plunger is very poorly designed, both of mine no longer adjust and are “all the way out” all the time, so all I can adjust is the lever pull.
I’d return them, but they came from Germany via Ebay, so I’m stuck.
My next brakes will be a set of mid range Shimanos.
Happy to hear I’m not the only one with an MT2 that no longer adjusts.
I’ve had a few issues with my disk/pad combo becoming noisy very quickly but after I rough it up again then it does stop nicely.
I just put a Shimano XTR front brake on my new KH 36. It just bolts right on with a couple washers for shims and works perfectly. I used a 160 mm Avid rotor because I got it free and it looks great. First brake I can used without worry of being slammed, modulation is perfect.
The new shimano brakes are very nice, I just got a BR M596 for my Oracle 29, super powerful, no squeal issues, great two finger lever design, and the lever “flexes” back for improved finger clearance when not in use.
You don’t need to spend a bunch of money, the new shimano brake tech has trickled down to lower levels, I only paid $80 of my brake from an LBS; rotor and IS adaptor not included.
I’d like to put some discs on my kh36. It has the IS mount (new kh frame).
Do the calipers have to be ambidextrous to fit on the right? Also, can the rotor be reversed (as I think they have a correct rotation direction)? Thanks for any assistance as I know these questions are common knowledge and basic.
Or to elicit even even simpler responses, can someone recommend a good setup and indicate the best rotor size for the 36? My current maggies knock on the rim too much to warrant persisting with.
Cheers
t