which 26" muni to buy

Hi there. I’m looking for help deciding which 26" muni to buy. I’m considering Nimbus Mountain, Nimbus Oracle, or Kris Holms.
I have not done a lot of muni and at my age do not plan to start jumping logs or dropping off rocks but I do like riding cross country with a few minor obstacles.
I ride a 24 with a street tire, which I could change to a muni tire but I still like riding street. The problem is I struggle with divots and from reading the forums it seems a lot of you find the 26 rides over roots and divots better.
Thanks in advance for your advise.

Those are all great choices. I think it all boils down to how much money you want to spend. If you are budget minded, you can pick up the Nimbus with the coupon this weekend for under 300 bucks, that is a pretty good deal. It’s the workhorse, a bit heavier than the rest, but tough as nails. You can always add a hydraulic brake down the road if you want.

If you want a lighter full setup with brake, do the oracle. With coupon around 500 bucks, also a great deal… comes with disk brake and aluminum frame.

I think the KH is not quite worth the price for what you get, but that is just my opinion. It is regarded as the best and I don’t dispute that. It does keep it’s value, so if you ever decide to sell it you do pretty well.

All three have fairly similar wheelsets, the KH has a drilled rim so is a bit lighter.

I’m thinking of picking up a new 26 also, for what it’s worth, I’m mostly looking at the Nimbus muni… But I’m a cheap bastard and I already have a brake set waiting to go on.

I can’t help with the 26" Muni selection, but are you riding Muni while using a 24" street tire? You really need a fat tire for soaking up the bumps on the trail. It’s expected that using a street tire for Muni would cause you to fall off a lot.

Are you looking for a combination that would work for both trail and street without having to change tires?

There is a difference between a 24 and 26, but it isn’t a super huge improvement that will solve the problems of roots and divots. A 24" muni with a muni tire can go pretty much over everything else that the larger wheels can.

If you want a 26" muni, then get one. We’ve got all the sizes around here and they are great. They aren’t necessarily a quick solution for getting over obstacles better though.

If you are spending the money, they’re all great choices.

I really do like a variety of wheel sizes. Having more than one uni is cool too. I prefer different size wheels for different situations, but the biggest difference in choosing often comes down to how fast I figure I can race on a particular size.

Technique is the key to going over roots and such. Rolling hops have been the most helpful for me. Some people are really good at leading with the wheel so that when it hits the obstruction it brings the weight of the rider over the top and back into balance, but I haven’t got that down yet.

The uni’s you are looking at are all solid. If you want a brake the Oracle is a good deal, but not as sweet if you upgrade the saddle, or cranks.

The KH is a great deal if you want the KH saddle, Spirit cranks, and adjustable post. In reality a disc brake can be had very inexpensively, and since the KH is disc ready the Oracle doesn’t have the huge value advantage that it seems. If I was spending $700 on a MUni I would go for the KH. FWIW I have a Nimbus MUni and I haven’t ever felt the need for something different.

I was leaning toward the Oracle because of the brake. Is a disc brake necessary or does rim brake work well? Does the rim brakes get misaligned when UPD?

Since the external brake are choosen by kriss holm as best solution they are … ":smiley:
if you go external avoid disc similar to chainsaw

I would get a disk brake given your location and possible wet conditions. Plus the resale value on a disk uni will be more desirable. All the info above seems really solid. Pick one and go play!

The disc is more likely to get misaligned in a UPD. Rim brakes work very well, maybe too well. Disc brakes have much smoother grab, and better modulation. Both are fine. I went to a disc on my nightrider because the frame was so flexy that my rim would drag against the brake when I was cranking hard uphill.

I guess if you really want an internal disc (hub mounted rotor), the Oracle is your choice. I had a crank mounted rotor, and never had a problem with it. Plus, my experience with bikes makes me shy away from having an asymmetrically dished wheel (I’ve seen too many rear wheels in bad shape). So, once again my vote would be the KH.

update

I went with the oracle. Aside from a little urban jungle riding when it came, I haven’t had both time and good weather together until today. WOW what a great ride. That 26" goes over everything I threw at it, especially bad concrete and sticks.
I took it down to the park bike paths and it was great. Of course being fairly new to muni I had one major UPD and one embarrassing one on loose gravel in front of a couple of mountain bikes. But I thought “Hey, I’m on a unicycle, you try this” and let it go. And the deer I saw made it all worth while.
I do have one question though. When I UPD, I’m on my knees before I know what happened. This doesn’t usually happen on concrete. Does running out of a UPD on the trail happen with more practice?

Glad you found the Uni you like… I have found that the more I ride off road the better I get. You will get better at the “run out”. I did three miles muni today and I did not end up on my a%$ at all. I usually end up feet up at least once a ride in the woods.

Oracle Review after ~ 1 yr.

My mUni is also an Oracle 26". It’s the only mUni I’ve ever owned, and here are the issues I’ve had with it:

  1. Brake: The disk brake didn’t work optimally until I had it adjusted by a LBS. It squealed like crazy. I recently replaced the pads with more aggressive ones, and there is still some vibration, but not as much. I have no excess length in the brake-line, and the current lever placement on my t-bar has limitations on how far forward it can go. Granted, I am tall, and I am currently riding with the seat pretty high, so most people might not have this problem. I wish UDC had configured the Oracle with a loop/twist in the brake line for extra slack.

  2. Frame: it is pretty wide at a particular point in the fork. I tend to crowd the Oracle with my left leg, causing more trauma to my left shoe and rubbing of my left calf. I recently moved to a thinner tire, so the width of the frame is less important, and I am wondering if a narrower frame would be better for me.

  3. Seat: Between the falls and the heavy pulling on the handle, my seat lasted less than a year (it lost its stiffness, and started bending up and down). Luckily for me, the need for replacement, as well as the advice I received from a serious rider, prompted me to get a new seat with the KH t-bar setup, which I love. The stock seat is pretty cheap. I spoke with a seasoned rider who went through half a dozen seats on his mUni before getting a fiberglass stiffening plate. Point being: I can’t really blame the Oracle for the seat going bad. Seats take a lot of abuse.

  4. Seat-post: Lasted about a year, then broke at a weld in the top. Luckily, I had another seat-post lying around. Seat-posts are cheap.

  5. Seat-post clamp: I am thinking of replacing it with a hex-key-only version. The ends of the quick release are rather pointy, and I have caught my shorts on them before while SIF/SIB UPDs or whatever.

  6. Tire: I am not enough of a man for the Duro. Someone on the forum, please tell me I’m a wimp. I recommend getting a thinner, lighter tire for the Oracle. If you are new to mUni, the sluggishness of the Duro might wear you out. Yes, it rolls over stuff. Once you learn how to stabilize the mUni, however, you’ll be able to ride over stuff with a less-manly tire. Overkill for most riding situations, at least in my neighborhood.

Some advice: Tighten everything before you ride. It takes a few extra minutes, but it is preventative maintenance. I found that, particularly for the t-bar setup, some of the bolts needed tightening after a ride. A lot of force is placed on the t-bar setup. If I had been more careful about tightening the seat-post bolts, my seat-post probably would have lasted longer. It’s hard to know what might need tightening, so you should check everything.

More advice: learn how to use the brake, but don’t expect to feel that comfortable using it, any time in the near-future. I think the secret to braking involves producing an isometric balance between braking force and the pulling-up-on-the-seat force. Braking causes the frame/seat/handle to move forward, and an equal force needs to be applied pulling back/up on the seat/handle. It is easy to maintain this balance on a gentle downhill, when the braking force is weak, but things get more difficult when the braking force and opposing force are greater. I have a long way to go before I will consider myself good at braking.

Happy Oracling!

I was too wimpy for the Duro on my Nimbus 26. It was fine for downhill and straight and level stuff, but it about killed me going uphill and I couldn’t take tight turns with it. Switched it out with a Maxxis Ardent and haven’t missed the Duro a bit. I might put the Duro back on for snow rides next winter but I can’t see ever using it regularly.

Me, too, same uni, same tires. Only difference is, I’m in Los Angeles, so snow unicycling is not likely. What I will say is, if I were going on a cross-country off-road trip, and didn’t want to lug a spare tire, I would go with the Duro. It can take pretty much anything. The Ardent has noticeably more flex in the sidewalls.

I got the Nimbus Oracle 26" as well about three weeks ago and have been going on a MUni ride about twice a week with it. I can’t agree more with the seat. I wear cycling shorts for MUni and even then, it still gets uncomfortable after about 30 minutes. I think it might have something to do with the shape - the saddle on my Nimbus 20" is much flatter, especially in the front. I feel like I’m sitting inside a giant banana on the Oracle seat. I’ve been contemplating getting a Kris Holm saddle to replace the stock Oracle saddle for a while, but the fact that others seem to be having the same problem as me might have just convinced me. :slight_smile:

For the time being, you might experiment with the angle of the seat. My seat is currently setup with the nose pointing more up; this helps me sit more on the back of the seat, and I avoid getting the narrow part of the seat wedged between my butt.

If you are contemplating a new seat, I would also suggest getting a t-bar with a compatible seat. Holding the bar ends could help you adjust your butt on the seat and take some weight off the seat.

I have actually been looking into T-Bars as well. Though since the new KH lineup just got announced, I might wait to purchase new cranks/saddle/T-bar now…