Wheel build question

After initially lacing a KH 29 freeride rim, I’m having some issues. Having confirmed the correct spoke length, and using a brand new set of 14g j-bend, and checking that all were the same length, the initial lacing went fine, using standard 3 cross.

Then I proceeded to turn all the nipples until the spoke threads just disappeared, but didn’t even get that far. Some spokes turned easily to that point, while others, some right next to them, would become too tight with close to half threads still showing!

I double and triple checked that the lace pattern was right, so I’m wondering if anyone might know what’s causing this issue?


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It is hard to see all the spokes in the photo but off hand I’d say that all the spokes on one hub flange need to be shifted one hole on the hub.

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I think I figured it out. It follows the exact same spoke pattern as all my other uni wheels with 36 holes and 3 cross. Just realized it’s the hub! The holes are misaligned and there’s no way to correct it, unless you use different size spokes to compensate. No wonder this hub was on sale. Hope I can return it.

Cheers,

Terry

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Hi Terry, Just a question on the hub. Is this one of those multi piece assemblies or single solid piece?
Just wondering if it shifted from one flange to the other when assembled at the factory or if the holes from one flange to the other were drilled misaligned. It is perplexing.

The hole in one flage must be misaligned with the spokes with the other flange. So if you lace first your right side outer spokes (named 1, 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32), when you start lacing the opposite side you must choose carefully which spoke should be… if you start with the misaligned hole in hub at the right from spoke 1, you should have at example: 2, 5, 9,13… but if you start at the left from spoke one you’ll start with 36, 3, 7, 11, 15… (and so one). If you miss that you’ll need different sized spokes… the opposite spokes must be choose depending on the lacing first hub rotation (to the left or to the right). However this vid is great to follow: 3 cross wheel lacing

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Hi Terry, I suppose that common hubs have holes placed in chess order on left and right sides. Can you check this thing on your hub?

The holes in the flanges are supposed to be offset (as Vogelfrei80 says above). You can see this on my Pipifax hub in the photo below with the spoke hanging vertically from one flange it is in the middle of the two holes on the opposite flange. The lacing in your top photo looks a bit strange but the vertical lines in the background (cupboard door etc) are maybe affecting how I see that.

Check out the video Vogelfrei80 linked to and also ones by Ali Clarkson on YouTube, he as a playlist of these. I have found the first one on this pretty useful for a refresh (the one with 557k views) when I haven’t done a wheel for a while.

Ali C’s wheel building playlist:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyhFMUwa1zAhjOae_6yt1ldTev1_mzdGF

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Thanks everybody for all the great advice! Turns out that after lacing the 1st set, I flipped the wheel to start the 2nd set, but must’ve inserted the first spoke in the wrong hole, relative the reference spoke on the first side, which threw off the rest of the build. Delaced it and started over and now it’s good.

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Oh that Vans tire looks sick!

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Thanks, I’m getting camouflage grip tape tomorrow to match the tire.

Cheers,

Terry

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Got the spokes up to decent tension, dished and trued but there’s a slight “hump” at one point. Do I need to loosen 1 or 2 nipples on high side and tighten the 2 on the 180 degree side?

The high side needs to made lower, so those need to be tightened, the low side (180 deg from high side) loosened. I would do more than two spokes on each side, at least 4 maybe more depending on the length of the hump. Do the loosening first. Is it where the seem is? ( Where the ends of the rim are joined). Sometimes you get weird stuff happening there and it’s usually tough to get right.

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I agree with @anton005 that you will probably need to loosen (and tighten) multiple spokes to get any effect. If the “hump” is where the rim is joined there is a likelyhood you cannot remove it completely. My suspicion is that the issue is more pronounced with cheap “pinned” rims and not with the more expensive “sleeved” or “welded” rims.

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Wow Terry, That is a great inovation to the BC wheel.

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Since I can’t feel the high spot while riding, I probably won’t worry about it. It’s an old kh-29er rim which I used to use for Muni so it’s less than perfectly round but just fine as a BC wheel.

Here’s the maiden voyage on my newly built 29er BC with KH freeride rim and 14mm axle hub. Also my first complete wheel build including truing. Thanks you guys for the wheel building tips!

Camo Impossible! #shorts #top #how #unicycle #extreme #birthday - YouTube

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That’s great, Terry! Did you make those footrests yourself, or did you have a shop of some sort make them?

Also, how does the 29” BC wheel riding experience match up with a 20”? Is it easier to balance? Does it feel the same to balance?

The footrests on my BC wheel don’t hang very far below the axle, and you have to kinda jamb your foot underneath the axle bolt. I’m wondering if lower/longer footrests like yours might make it (slightly, it IS a BC wheel after all) more stable?

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I welded the foot plates using 5/8 x 5/8 steel square tube, with 3/16 steel plate between with 9/16 holes drilled out. I really like this type of foot plate since the wheel guards I made fit inside the hollow part of the tubing. The bigger wheel size seems smoother and more stable, although the speed is the same regardless of wheel size. Yes, I prefer the plates lower which makes riding a bit easier.

Cheers,

Terry

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It funny camouflage does not make a BC wheel rider’s profile any lower :wink:

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Hmm, you’ll have to explain that one. :thinking:

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