> What crank length are you using? 110/125/135/140/150/165
> What style riding do you do? Street/Flat/Touring/Muni
> what size wheel are you riding? 20/24/26/29/36
> would your next crank have 1,2, or 3 pedal positions? 1/2/3
sorry, just too complicated for a poll. Other than posting 4 unrelated polls, I thought I’d just ask. I need a general consensus.
how is this for a crank size line up:
135 single
115/140 double
140/165 double
110/130/150 Touring Triple
point being most sizes in fewest cranks to cover the general masses. This may exclude street/flat because a brake rotor bolts to the cranks, (but to either side).
120/140s on a 36 (mostly 140)
114s on a 32
145s on a 29
137 on a 26
112/137 on a 19
I change cranks a lot and like the idea of multiple crank positions if the crank is strong enough.
I would definitely get 110/130/150 cranks for the 36 if available. I would mostly use the 130 hole for hilly rides and XC but 150 would be great for 36er Muni and 110 would be sweet on flatter road rides. I triple isn’t feasible I would be happy with 115/135 or 115/140 or 120/140 for the 36
I also like the idea of 115/140 for either my 26 or 29. 115 to get to the trails then 140 for the rough stuff. Sort of like a poor man’s Schlumpf.
115/140 is a personal sweet spot for a double crank.
I’m currently using 152’s nimbus ventures on my KH26 muni/street/a little bit of trials unicycle.
I do mountain unicycling and street kinda.
Im riding a KH 26’’
My next cranks would definatly have 2 holes, 1 in each crank for pedals
Might buy 135 single holes but I feel 150 single holes definatly should be produced and I would be more likely to buy your cranks if they came in 150mm single hole
Personaly for me I don’t like double hole cranks as I like to get use to one crank length and be good at that and I don’t have a need for dual hole cranks as I have a pair of KH 137/165 and I don’t change the crank positions.
Also the next cranks I get will have steel pedal inserts as I much prefer this and like steel pedal inserts as I just trust my cranks more.
Also why don’t mountainuni produce single hole cranks first? to lower the intial cost of the start up cost and so the cranks can be sold sooner and to prove the cranks work well and are strong. I bet lots of people would be happy with single hole cranks
for me also the triple sounds fantastic, that would cover all kind of muni-riding on my 26er (i like 150’s for the uphills also for real technical stuff, for fast downhills the 130’s would be good and if its real easy or to transfer fast on the flat the 110’s are just perfect… ok i’d need a quick release… )
i think the line up sound good, i’m not sure about the 140/165…
i guess for my kind of riding it would also do a 130/150
> What crank length are you using? 110/125/135/140/150/165
Yes. On several unicycles I am using multi cranks with 6 postions (77/94/111/128/145/165mm). These cranks are made from 165mm KH cranks with some additonal custom holes.
> What style riding do you do? Street/Flat/Touring/Muni
Touring/Muni/Freestyle
> what size wheel are you riding? 20/24/26/29/36
Yes. All of them.
> would your next crank have 1,2, or 3 pedal positions? 1/2/3
You’d move your pedals at the trailhead? I suppose that’s one good reason to have dual hole cranks (personally I can’t see myself ever riding to the trails from here, so it’s not really an issue).
I got the quick release pedals. The ones I got were not the nice platforms but ones balanced for toeclips, so they’re always upside down! I believe that if you have multiple receivers bolted to the cranks the platform of the pedals will need to be hacked near the crank. also, the spacing needs to be 25mm apart, 100/125/150 would do it. the pedal quick release receivers that are not used may bite your shoe soles against the pedals stopping you short or taking chunks out of the shoe… maybe.
The metal inserts are coin, machining in USA may be cost prohibitive already. I like the idea if you switch pedals a lot, but if the pedals generally stay put, the aluminum will be fine. Also, if the pedal insert breaks loose, getting the pedal out is tricky.
The single hole options are cool, and folks could add their own holes. I am hoping that the triple option differentiates us from the competition, and works for many folks so we don’t have to stock tons of sizes. it’s a cost thing. We’re listening though…
with 6 pedal positions in KH moments, though I have seen similar on Jogi’s and sam haber’s rigs… I wouldn’t hand them to Turtle for 9’ drops! I gotta make something durable, even if I label it “touring” folks will still MUni with them.
The cranks that withstand Turtle’s riding style are not yet invented.
Nevertheless, for me and some other people these multi cranks are sufficient. No issues yet. And I am pretty sure they will last for quite some time (my usage profile given).
I will only consider these cranks if they get Schlumpf’s thumbs up, otherwise I’ll just stick with my good old HS33s. I’m running Tensile 140mm cranks on both the G26 and G36 and they are very nice. I also like the steel inserts a lot.
So if your new cranks are 100% Schlumpf compatible (which I would expect the KH to be) my preferred pedal positions for both 26" and 36" would be:
single: 140mm
dual: 140/160 or maybe 135/155 if 20mm are required in between,
otherwise I think something like 140/155 or 137/152 might be ideal.
Triple: 120/140/160 or better 125/140/155.
Maybe one could somehow make a single steel insert for both holes that could be bolted to the aluminum? Maybe one could even make the slot longer than the insert so that the insert could be slid to get even more options?
What crank length are you using?
110/125, 135, 125/150
What style riding do you do?
Commuting/Muni
What size wheel are you riding? 20/24/26/29/36
20,29
Would your next crank have 1,2, or 3 pedal positions?
2
I’m not planning a brake for 20" so not counting this one really. In my 29" I was riding 125/150 and it was really nice combination. Then I changed into 135 Sinz and I’m not much slower than 125 and I can ride downhill better than 150 because of the brake so just uphills suffer a bit of that change.
I also use 110 as a road setup from time to time, but that’s rare.
I don’t personally see the need for triples, and my favorite would be double 110/135, but 115/140 seem also fine for my riding, so this would be my choice from the list provided.
I’m gonna have to tally up and average out everyone’s personal favorite pedal positions to sort this out…
in regards to KH and MU cranks compatibility with Schlumpf hubs… Florian is not cool with crank stop spacers, so neither KH nor MU cranks can use them. when the crank creeps in, it’s done, and the rotor may end up rubbing the frame… perhaps the next generation of Schlumpf hubs will get a larger c-clip that is away from where a spacer will rest and be compatible with KH and MU cranks using crank stop spacers. The frame clearances for the narrow axle in Schlumpf may change too, since now there are bolts inside the crank arm that may rub without a spacer as well. I don’t expect that a crank will be made that won’t creep in, or a spacer that will be acceptable for your current Schlumpf hub. That fix isn’t on us. So far, loctite and low torque on the cranks to avoid excess side pressure on bearings with a spacer works, or no spacer and slow creep are acceptable for function, Florian only endorses the latter. The MU cranks will be as compatible with Schlumpf as KH’s so long as a spacer isn’t used.
I ride 150’s on my 26 and 29, though I like having the option of something shorter, so I have 125/150 on the 26guni.
BTW, I installed brand new KH 125/150 on my KH 26guni and one of the cranks only has 1mm of spacing from the bearing holder, the other crank has 2mm, so me thinks the KH frame is a little but wide and/or the Schlumpf hub is a little but narrow…
I’d like to see Florian add a stop on one side to “officially” allow for a crank mounted disc brake, esp since two products are now available. Anyone know if the Schlumpf hub could be assembled/loaded from one side?
Would a steel crank, using a tubular arm, be less prone to creep? I’m thinking that this would be one way to get around pedal inserts as well as have a strong crank and less bulky, maybe something like the QuAx Chromoly Street Cranks:
> What crank length are you using? 125mm and sometimes 145mm > What style riding do you do? Road and XC, but I often do a bit of both on the same ride > what size wheel are you riding? 29 and 36, but mainly 36 > would your next crank have 1,2, or 3 pedal positions? 3 Please:D
I think the 110/130/150 Touring Triple sounds ideal for my 36er, as I could use 130mm setting for the majority of my riding, and 150mm setting when I’m doing 36er muni, and 110mm for flatter rides.
I think perhaps there could be something closer to 125mm in the double hole cranks maybe? I don’t know if this would be useful to anyone else, as I’d rather the triple hole cranks, but if I did have doubles I’d like something between 120 and 130 and with the other hole at something between 145 and 155
Personally, the only reason I’m interested in brakes at all is because stopping is becoming more difficult and downhill harder on the knees as I get into shorter and shorter cranks. I want to support this system, but I’m not going to take a speed hit for it. I think the only reason I’d switch to something longer than my 100s in the near future would be if I couldn’t have brakes, not to get them.
I know I’m in a tiny minority here, but I’d love to see a set of single-hole 95mm cranks with a disc brake.
good thinkin… steel isn’t as nice to machine as aluminum…
welding a bead around the axle would suffice as a crank stop spacer, but would likely void the warranty… and make disassembling a bitch without a grinder!
)
I suppose that’s one good reason to have dual hole cranks (personally I can’t see myself ever riding to the trails from here, so it’s not really an issue).
I don’t know if this would be useful to anyone else, as I’d rather the triple hole cranks, but if I did have doubles I’d like something between 120 and 130 and with the other hole at something between 145 and 155