What MUNI to buy? 24" or 26"

Hello,

I am new to the forum but I thought I would get the wheel rolling by asking an age-old question, what size wheel should I buy?

I am looking to upgrade to a MUNI and I would like some opinions as to the differences in wheel size. I currently ride a 24" Torker and I was lucky enough to land a Corker earlier this year, but I would like to move to a 3.0 tire width and I am concerned about wheel size (isn’t everybody?).

Background, I am six, six and around 210lbs. I want something that rides well that I won’t break. I am not currently an advanced rider but I would like to push the limit when ever possible. Money is an issue, as it is for many of us and I would rather not have to purchase some thing else later if I can help it unless I have progressed to the next level.

Now to wheel size, is there a big difference between a 24” and a 26”? Would I be better off with a larger wheel for MUNI? I find my 24” to be a bit twitchy when I really get on it, is this operator error or a function of the wheel.

Well that’s more than one question so I will leave it at that for now, thank you for any help you can offer.

Go with the KH 24. It has the most bang for the buck. The 26x3 munis are more expensive because they’re more custom. The KH 24 is stock from Taiwan. Much cheaper that way.

The 24x3 is the ideal size for aggressive muni. A 26x3 is a little bit too big for maneuverability and it’s also heavier.

The 24" wheel is stronger than the 26" wheels. If you watch the older videos of Kris Holm you’ll see him taco a bunch of 26" wheels. I don’t think Kris has tacoed a 24" wheel yet.

The better maneuverability of the 24x3 is important for technical muni. It makes it easier to get it to go where you want it to go. It is easier to ride on skinnies. The lighter weight makes it easier to hop and jump with.

With a 24x3 wheel you’re in the stable and power position (both cranks horizontal) more often. This helps with control. You don’t have to roll as far to get back to that stable and power position.

The 26x3 is more of a special purpose muni. If you’re more concerned with speed then the 26x3 has a little bit of an advantage, but not much. Keep in mind that the 26x3 is heavier by at least a pound, and that weight is noticeable. Riding style is also going to be different on the 26x3. With the 26x3 you’re going to want to keep it on the ground and roll over stuff. You’re not going to want to jump with it as much as with a 24x3.

I have both a 24x3 muni and a 26x3 muni. I ride the 24x3 almost exclusively now. I hardly ride the 26x3 much at all now. The 24x3 is more fun for the way I’m riding and the trails I’m riding. Even on long muni rides, of 15 miles or more, I’ll take the 24x3 even though the 26x3 would get me to the end with less pedaling.

There are two 24x3 tires in common use. The KH 24 comes with a Duro Wildlife Leopard. The other common tire is the Gazzaloddi. There are also other 24x3 tires (or 24x2.7) by Arrow, IRC, and others. If you find that you don’t like the way the Duro behaves then you can try the Gazz. The two tires have different profiles and tread design so they ride differently.

For now the choice is easy. The 24x3 is the way to go for an aggressive use muni. Later on you can decide if you want a second muni that is more specialized, like maybe a 29er or 26x3.

Man, John…good reply. You raised a lot of valid points there. If I read that and I had a 26’’ I’d prolly be ready to sell it.

It’s not all that bad. A 26x3 is still a good muni. It’s kind of an all mountain cruiser. :slight_smile:

The 26x3 is still fun. It’s just going to make you ride differently that if you were on a 24x3.

But for what most people want to do, a 24x3 is the better choice. There is a reason where there are very few 26x3 munis at events like the California Muni Weekend and a whole bunch of 24x3 munis.

John,

Thanks so much for the information; I guess the thing that rings through the most is my concern about being a bit tall and not wanting to taco a rim. You mentioned Kris Holm; do you have one of his 24’s?

I am glad the folks at Unicycle.com have such a grate selection of unicycles, but would you consider paying extra for a bombproof hub?

Last question, do you know anyone in Spokane that is into MUNI that I could contact or that may be interested in riding?

Thanks

unless you’re going to ride a lot of smooth/not steep trails then the 24 is the muni for you. also get the strongest hub/crankset you can afford.

There are some riders in the Spokane WA area. See this thread for one. Also check the Unicycling Roster. There are several riders listed from Spokane.

The bombproof hubs are the best way to go for muni. With your weight it’s almost a no-brainer choice. If you’re under about 120 pounds you can get away with using a standard square tapered hub as long as you aren’t extreme and doing big drops and jumps. If you’re over 200 pounds you pretty much need a bombproof splined hub.

Square tapered hubs are problematic for muni. Their axle diameter is smaller than the splined hubs (17 mm versus 19 mm or 20 mm for the splined hubs). Smaller diameter means less strength. Square tapered cranks are also problematic for keeping tight. It’s a constant battle to keep the cranks tight on the hub. All the hard pedaling and jumps and jolts of muni will work the cranks loose. It gets to the point that you will have to check the tightness of your cranks before every ride and carry a 14mm socket wrench with you so you can tighten the cranks on the trail if necessary. Oh, and don’t forget to carry an extra crank nut. It’s not uncommon to loose a crank nut while you’re riding. Square tapered cranks are also less strong than the splined cranks. At 200 pounds you’ll be bending standard square tapered cranks. I used to have a Pashley muni with a standard square tapered hub (this was before the splined setups were available) and it was a constant battle to keep the cranks tight. Twice I had to hike back to the car because a crank came loose during a ride.

The splined cranks (like the KH and Profile) are much stronger. They’re bombproof strong. The splined hubs are stronger. The cranks won’t fall off during a ride. The whole system is much more reliable.

I have a 24x3 KH Pro with Profile hub. I got that unicycle before the made in Taiwan version was available. The KH Pro is made in Canada and was quite a bit more expensive. The made in Taiwan version is much more affordable.

Unicycle.com has been raising the price of the KH muni. The price increase is probably partly due to a changing exchange rate. If you’re looking for a new KH muni right now it would be a good idea to shop around. Call up Darren Bedford at Bedford Unicycles and find out what he’s got. Ignore the price list on the web page, it’s not current. You have to call him to find the current prices. He’s in Toronto Canada and can ship to the US.

the obie one is a noob … he doesnt even unicycle

Dude, back off. Obie would own you hands down. So until I see you start riding. Shut the **** up. Puls this is no place for that.

hey catboy im probably the best on this page… if your good send me a video jon08@cox.net, if you do that ill send you a video of me…until then dont talk about other people being able to risde better than me