Paul Wyganowski. But he’s a who, not a what.
I love my new Wyganowski. It’s similar to a Miyata frame, using all the same hardware (seat post and bearing holders, but stronger. It’s also a little heavier, but that’s because it’s a professional-level frame. It’s made to take a beating for a long time, without any effect on it. I have broken Miyata frames over the years. My only complaint about the Wyganowski is that it’s not available in chrome. I’ll do that to mine eventually, when the paint gets chewed up. Paint on unicycle frames always gets chewed up.
I agree with Borges on the 20’’ wheel, Strong and rigid wheel and frame, Square fork crown, Long seat tube, and minimum free space above the tire. You don’t want a bunch of bolts in your seat tube, as with a Miyata, to gouge out your legs. I’ve had custom posts that were real long, with the bolt up near the seat, since 1984. You need a good platform for your foot, for one-foot, gliding, coasting, and stand-up skills.
I currently have 102mm cranks on there, after 18 years with 125s. So far they’re still coming up a little short for my tastes, and I think I’m going to try 110s. Shorter is better for spinning and fast-pedaling skills, but the leverage is bad.
A colored tire and plastic pedals are important for indoor riding, and you want a seat that can take lots of drops. Miyata seats are great, though the handle gets in the way for some tricks. You can cut off the handle (which should basically cure the problem with the newer Chinese ones), or get the Kris Holm Freestyle seat. Don’t know if those are available yet, but I’m sure they’ll be worth the wait.
Also make sure you have a good, strong seat post clamp, so your seat isn’t always jerking to the sides.