What length crank do you use on your 24" MUNI?

I use a 150mm right now but it feels a little choppy. When I ride my 29" with 150mm cranks it is much smoother. I am thinking of putting some 137mm cranks on my 24" to make it a little smoother and more similar to my 29". I was wondering what the general consensus is on this and if it really hurts you on both the uphill and downhill?

Thanks!

Brian

I ride 150mm I’ve never tried any other because I have a Torker and it isn’t compatible with anything else! I heard that 137mm are really great though:)

I was using 150s, but last week I tried 125s for a difference. It wasn’t bad but I don’t do very difficult stuff either. I was able to go faster than I usually go though, at least it seemed to me.

i am currently using 125mm cranks on my geared 24". I highly recommend going shorter than 150s. If you are a strong rider then all the climbs you could do on 150s are doable on 125s (with a little practice). 137s are a good option too. Tom trevor (4th in world hill climb at Unicon) did the event on 137s. Shorter cranks make the flat and DH sections faster and more exciting too.
Mark

I find that 150’s are ideal for highly technical terrain, biggish drops and generally natural trials with rock garden type trail settings. In this environment you’re not going to be anywhere close to full speed, but you will want to have optimum control, leverage and torque.

That is my favorite, and most challenging type of MUni, and if there will be longer, more xc oriented sections, especially DH, then I can very easily switch cranks holes to 125 and spin 180rpm if I feel so inclined…or de-clined! Imo, 24" MUnis (ungeared) aren’t essentially made for speed anyway; that’s why they invented 29ers! :smiley:

150’s are great for tech terrain, which is where a 24 belongs. I ride the 29er if I want to go fast (with 150’s also).

Good point on the 29! I am too poor to afford the new 29 and I can’t just get the fatter rim from UDC as they seem to not have them in stock :frowning: I put a Kodiak 2.5 on the 37mm rim tonight and it is better but the amount of roll I experience when pecking on the steeper uphills is still unacceptable to me. I wish I had the 47mm rim.

What are the biggest differences you guys notice between the 37 and 47mm rims?

I am using 150, but I want to try shorter.

150’s … same as most that have replied so far. I haven’t tried anything shorter, but did move to 150’s from 170’s. I like the control of the 150’s both up and down. For downhill though I’d be a little worried about going shorter.

I’ve been using 137/165’s for a while.

I use 150s. I have tried 137s and 165s too. I didn’t like the lack of control with the shorter cranks and the slow speed with the longer ones.

I use Tensile 140mm with a 24" Duro Leopard 3";
In the past I had 137/165 KH but almost never used 165 position, so I switched to Tensile 140mm as they are much lighter and very nice

With smaller tyre, you can ride with shorter cranks.

I use 137mm/165 dual cranks, usually the 137mm holes are in use. But when it gets really difficult, the 165mm holes may be better.

I recently switched from 150s to 160s on my 24" MUni to make it even more tractor-like. The 10mm difference was more noticeable than I expected and gives more control on downhills. At first I found climbing more difficult than with the 150s - I would get stuck in the dead spot more easily - but I’m getting over that.

I’m also using a Kodiak on the 38mm XC rim. Have you experimented much with pressure? I find if I run much lower than 15 PSI I have problems turning on pavement smoothly (due to a bit of rolling) so I keep it up around 16-17. I’m sure a 47mm rim would allow lower pressures.

I’m currently using 150mm on my KH24 GUni. I’ve considered switching to 137mm but I don’t know if I’d like the shorter cranks for spinning in high gear which is one reason I’m sticking with the 150s. I think you can get used to about any set up. I’ve ridden several 20 mile +, up to 50 miles of single track on my KH24 with 150mm cranks and was just fine; not sure, over a long enough distance on single track that your set up would really matter; comes down to fitness. Ideally I’d like to migrate to a KH26 because I could shave some weight and have more tire choices… but I’ve got a couple extra 24x3 tires for now. I’ve got a spare 24" wheel set so I’ll probably experiment with the 137mm cranks on that over the summer… (kind of a pain to swap out cranks on the Schlumpf hub).

Crank Length

I ride a KH24 with a 24X3 Arrow Racing Wide Bite tire and no brake. For about 2 1/2 years I rode with 165s. About a year ago I switched to 150s.

You have a more speed but less control on the technical stuff when riding
150s. I have trouble riding over some of the larger obstacles that I used to ride over. I used to ride over sidewalk curbs easily with the 165s. (Usually around 15 to 20cm here in Israel) Now I don’t make it if I hit them with the cranks not in the 2 to 4 oclock range. With the 150s I have to hop over more stuff when riding that I used to be able to roll over with the 165s.

I must say that there are less pedal strikes on rocks with the 150s.

On hills I used to be able to ride up steeper asphalt, cement, rocky or hard packed dirt hills with the 165s. I did numerous trials with both 150s and 165s on steep hills where I could not make it to the top. I would always make it up higher with the 165s. (Just on a side note all of the hills where I conducted these tests I can now conquer with both the 165s and 150s!)

On scree strewn or sandy hills it does not matter so much because I would get to a point where the tire would spin without traction. Both worked about the same.

On very rough, bumpy or rocky uphills the 165s were MUCH better.

On more flowing singles or cross country it is nicer having the 150s. They are faster and smoother. For these kinds of singles I would even go with the 137s. However I miss the 165s on the technical trails and the steep downhills.

If you are a hardcore technical rider then I would stick with the 165s. However if you like more flowing trails then go with the 150s or 137s.

If you do cross country go with the 137s or 125s.

It also depends upon your riding capability. I wouold not want to have learned how to ride with 150s and am very happy that I rode my first years with 165s.

Unicorn

I can ride technical stuff with the 150s fine which is why I was thinking of going down in length. Maybe I’ll try the 125s from my 20" for fun :slight_smile:

KH24 w/150s is a good control length for tech riding for me. I’ve recently put 137s on my KH29, and, now, when I’m on the 24X150s I can climb almost anything without standing on the pedals. Thinking about another pair of 137s, just don’t really want to spend the cash.

Crank Length on Munis

Of course technical stuff can be ridden fine with 150s but as I stated earlier there will be more of a need for hopping with the 150s.

Unicorn

125, do it

I have had my KH24 at the 125mm hole for 2+ years. I have never used the 150 hole on my cranks. You get used to control and hopping on 125 after awhile, and its so much more fast you never want to go back. I do the most technical trails I can find and have no issues.

Hill climbing you really do get used to as well. No big deal if I have to walk super steep uphill section anyways, I’m more into downhill.

I also only ride 110mm on my KH36 perhaps I’m biased towards short cranks, and going really fast. It all comes down to personal preference, and moments aren’t cheap.