What is more fun, 24 or 29?

Hey, I’m kind of new to trials and street, but I think it’s really fun. I also want to try MUNI.
What will be the funniest thing for me? 24" or 29" when i ride in the woods?
I guess that 29" goes a lot faster, but how much faster, is it harder to ride?
Please help me out :smiley:

Thanks a lot!

depends on the terrain you have, if it’s fairly smoothe fast flowing woodland trails the 29 will be much better, a real blast. If you have highly technical terrain availble then a 24 would be better.

Thanks… It’s like good paths, you can ride a normal bicycle there without a problem, so I guess I’ll save up for a 29" :smiley:

Sounds like the 29er is the best choice for the trails you intend to ride.

A 29er can go fast enough that you can get a fun swooping feeling when hitting swoopy turns. That’s a feeling that is difficult to get on a 24x3 muni due to speed and the extra weight of the wheel. A 29er can turn a trail that is somewhat boring on a 24x3 into something swoopy and fun.

A 29er isn’t difficult to ride or mount as long as you have reasonable cranks to start with. Not much different than riding a 24 or 26 with a XC MTB tire.

A 29er only gets to be significantly different when you start putting shorter and shorter cranks on it. Then the ride feel changes, mounting changes a bit, and hills change a bit. 150mm cranks to start with, 125mm after some experience and depending on your riding style, then even shorter if you find you like that.

…or longer.

A 45’ giraffe w/ a 36" wheel. :stuck_out_tongue:

But seriously, a 29" does sound like a good match. I also think starting w/ long cranks, like 170’s would be good and then going smaller. W/ longer cranks hills will be much more doable and increase control on technical trails and more tires are becoming available (like the Panaracer Rampage 29X2.35) to make rough Muni on a 29 more doable.

Given that the original poster is 16 years old, I wouldn’t recommend starting with anything longer than 150s. I think longer loses the “swoopability” and feeling of speed that makes a 29er desirable. Even 150s can feel long if you’re not doing much climbing.

True. But for the trails that sigve describes (you can ride a normal bike there no problems) the long cranks would be overkill. And longer cranks make it more difficult to achieve the swoopy flow that a 29er can add to a XC muni ride.

Heck, for trails described as “you can ride a normal bike there no problems” a Coker would work well.

If you get the KH29 with the dual hole cranks then you have both 125 and 150 mm positions. I love my 29er in the conditions you are describing, I have both a 24 and 29. I don’t think you can go wrong with the 29er, it was my second Uni after my beginner 24 torkerLX. It took a couple of weeks to get comfortable on it then a couple more weeks to get really comfortable. I still am riding with 150mm cranks, I think they are great for offroad riding (XC)

The KH 29 is maybe the best

A E Bike will sell you one cheaper then anyone else I know of. They are required to list MSRP, but if you email them and tell them you read on the forum that they will sell you one for more then 100 $ less, the word is they will.:slight_smile: They ship cheap to. So if you go 29, consider that deal.

http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30&action=details&sku=UN2029

It’s all a matter of how much bubblebath you have.

Hehehe! :stuck_out_tongue:

Well, I bought my other unicycle from www.unisalg.dk and I think they are good! Thanks a lot everyone, but I still have some questions!

What is a coker?
How much does long/short cranks have to say?


(it’s a brand of 36" unicycle, as well as the original creators of that wheel size)

Mine don’t say anything unless I drop them. :slight_smile:

Short answer (much, much longer answers are available by searching this forum):

  • Short lets you go faster, but is worse on hills
  • Long gives you more power, but is lousy on the flats
  • How short is too short is not the same answer for everyone
  • Also it’s not the same for you. Give new crank sizes a chance; don’t judge them with only a few hours of riding

I love my KH29 with the dual-hole cranks–I rode my 24 two days ago for the first time since an endurance race in early October, and really was missing the speed and swoop-factor of the 29. The Qu-Ax 29er would probably be a really good choice for you–ISIS splined hub, 140 cranks–and not too spendy, either, compared to the KH29:
http://unisalg.dk/29__qu_ax_cross-p-225.html?osCsid=e1824e20a86f6742b7d2cc9653613766

I found this old thread and wanted to say thanks to the people telling me to go with 29", i’ve had some GREAT rides with it, and its really funny!

Thanks for taking the time to give some feedback. There are a lot of threads that start “what shall I get”, and end with “ok, I’ll get that then” but we never find out if the right answers were given (Or the right questions were asked).

Glad to hear that you’re enjoying your 29er though. Which model, and what crank length did you end up going for?

STM

alternative ? Geared 24"

I like to get on with this topic. Newbees have allways the same questions and I have read a lot in a lot of posts …

There is also one next option a geared 24er…

I “plan” to get only on woodways, fireroads and normal Hikingways in the woods. They are in good conditions for fast ride, but I “fear” it a little bit - o.k. maybee next year with more experiance…

O.k. 20" is tooooo slow, and also geared no option because of the little diameter of the wheel - maybee 29" is the best normal offer for that kind of roads. But a lot of people say it is a bit tricky to get used to that size.
I personaly had a big strugle with a testride on a 24" - at the moment I have only 20" (I am a beginner)
so I plan to get a new 24KH with the gear as option in the next halfyear…

where are the people with such a ride - what are the profits out of that ?
I think it this way - you have a normal 24er for all that “woodstuff” and little stepy downhills and a ride that goes as a 29er riden at maximum warp … but in a cool and relaxed way :wink:
How fast can you go in the woods - halfway"safe" 25kmh?

Thanks for answers !

Does it give a lot of good one-liners?
Maybe we should call Comedy Central.
:stuck_out_tongue:

Winning $ by demolishing bikes in a technical XC race :roll_eyes:

Kidding aside, if you have the $, I think that’s the way to go. Really good riders who have geared 29er’s say second gear is too tall 95% of the time for that wheel size.

KH has said that for extra speed, he’d use a geared 24 w/ 137’s (a geared 26" w/ 150’s would be too specific).

Personally, I’d say ideal terrain for a geared 29 would be terrain that is mostly non-technical (smooth trails with few roots/rocks), with some sections that are moderately technical. You use the high gear on the non-technical sections and low gear on the technical. Or, if you are looking for a mixed road and off-road machine, so you can ride to the trailhead and then ride the trail; again, assuming the trail is lightly to moderately technical.

Ideal terrain for the geared 24 is anywhere that you have lots of boring riding which leads to highly technical riding. For example, the Braille Trail ride in Santa Cruz ends with 2-3 miles of dirt road that’s a horrendous slog on an 24" MUni, but the trail is technical and steep enough that you’d want a 24" MUni to ride it. So you bring the geared 24, ride it in low gear on the way up the big slogging climb to the top of the fun part, low gear on the fun part, and high gear on the road out.

I think a geared 29er with 125/150 dual-drilled cranks and a brake is the most versatile unicycle setup available. It can do serious distance and racing and decently difficult MUni while remaining relatively lightweight and fitting in any car trunk.

Thanks

Thanks for the answers - the word “profit” may be wrong because of my english … I thought more of “what have from this” - but I think it is said enough.
It is difficult to clear up what is highly technical, because of my “beginner - riding”. For me is technical at the moment to climb down a steps, over a piece of wood or to ride over stones bigger than a hand can grip… so I think because of this it would be the best choice to take the 24" for the “first” right ? Yesterday I have been riden at a lake side on a very good way, but I think that is not the way to go the next weeks - I will in the woods on fireroads etc - I think I stick to the 24" and will upgrade it with a Schlumpf in the winter.
Shoud I take the dualcranks right in front now (only a little difference when buying the whole bike new? ) Did I need them for the geared 24er later?

What about a 26"KH - to specific ? Or will this comming up next year ?