if you where building a 36" wheel, what hub-rim-crank combo would rule?
But a fluro rim would be cool !
Fluro stealth pro rim, spokes black and the new kh geared hub in white. Kh 165/137 cranks or 150/125.
unisk8r Polished and drilled airfoil rim, the new night rider tire (or maybe the xlr depending on weight), unicycle.com wide hub (not the extra wide, just the widest that fits into a standard bearing space), some 110mm cranks with no Q made of aluminum for weight.
O and 29er tube, until they make a 36" tube that doesn’t weigh a ton.
I’ve found that the weight advantage with going with the 29er tube isn’t worth the loss in durability. I’ve had two 29er tubes burst. You can definitely notice the extra weight but atleast you don’t have to worry nearly as much about going flat.
New Stealth Pro rim
New UDC 36" Tyre
Stans tubeless conversion kit
Stainless Steel spokes
Nimbus ISIS hub (until something lighter comes along…hopefully not far away)
Quax aluminium ISIS cranks
Built by Blair Webb. Top mechanic who used to work at my LBS. Best wheelbuilder I know.
K1 has a light isis hub, you just have to wait until they get them back up to standard, which in another thread someone mentioned was going to happen relatively soon.
Isnt the flange to flange distance on the K1 even more narrow than the Nimbus/KH?
Right, thats what I thought. I don’t know if I’d want to go much more narrow than the Nimbus ISIS for a coker wheel just to save a very negligible amount of weight.
and since it’s the hub, it doesn’t have that much effect on how a wheel feels because it is in the center.
For a CokerMUni
Nimbus ISIS hub
KH 170/137mm cranks
14G stainless spokes, preferably in black (or 13-15-14 tripple butted)
Original [proper sized] Airfoil rim with machined sidewalls.
Cut TA or possibly a modified Knightrider (I don’t know what their sidewalls are like)
Stans tubeless system
For an ultimate Road Machine
2008 Schlumpf Road hub
custom 140/120mm cranks
14G Stainless spokes. [elliptical bladed spokes would be sweet but I doubt that anyone would ever make Aero spokes that long.]
Stealth Pro rim
Knightrider with outer knobs chopped off. <- might change once the new Coker tire arrives.
Why would you prefer the old airfoil for muni over the new stealth pro?
Why I would choose an Airfoil for MUni
I believe the Airfoil and Stealth rims are the same width so stability should be the same but the Airfoil has a much deeper profile which should make the rim stiffer vertically. And it just LOOKS beefier.
Rumor has it that the Airfoil is just a Arrow Racing DHX rim rolled into a bigger loop. It is sort of a comforting thought that your rim is based on something designed for downhill freeride.
The stealth Pro might be able to take higher spoke tension due to the eyelets so it could actually be both the stronger and lighter rim making it superior for MUni.
Basically I don’t know which is stronger but intuition tells me its the Airfoil.
My airfoil also seems pretty good at not pinch-flatting my 29er tube when I bottom out or hit a curb wrong.
I have found that both the airfoil and the old steel rim were actualy pretty good for bottoming out, but maybe thats just me.
I like the airfoil too because it has been tried and tested as a drilled rim, and I really don’t think you lose much strength.
Plus its sexy and retro.
Take your spokes to a machine shop with a hydraulic roller press (2 long rollers stacked vertically).
- Line up spokes on lower roller with an inch or so showing on the far side of the roller (the threaded end sticking out), and the J bend pointing straight up.
- Compress the rollers to 1.0 mm spacing.
- Crank rollers to push spokes through.
- Stop an inch before the J bend.
- Decompress rollers and take out spokes.
- Open beer and cheer!
Wouldn’t that also increase the spoke length?
Also, would it significantly impact the strength of the wheel side to side?
dream 36" wheel
Yes, the spoke length would increase some. to determine how much you would have to do a few samples…
The side to side strength is a function of spoke tension, the higher the tension the stiffer the wheel. (or perceived stronger)
Wheel strength is a function of the tension of the spoke, working as a balanced system between the rim and hub.
In general, you will be able to damage the rim before breaking a spoke.
Spokes generally fail at the bend for the hub, that is why many of the new bike wheel use straight spokes.