# What do you really, really want in a MUni?

**URL:** https://unicyclist.com/t/what-do-you-really-really-want-in-a-muni/41610
**Category:** General
**Created:** [November 13, 1999, 1:27pm UTC](https://unicyclist.com/t/what-do-you-really-really-want-in-a-muni/41610 "1999-11-13T13:27:06Z")
**Posts on this page:** 10
**Page:** 1

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### Author: ![system](https://unicyclist.com/uploads/default/original/3X/d/4/d44cf5a6365651cf6b50671d1ff0c84adf0c7726.png) [@system](https://unicyclist.com/u/system)
#### Post date: [November 13, 1999, 1:27pm UTC](https://unicyclist.com/t/what-do-you-really-really-want-in-a-muni/41610/1 "1999-11-13T13:27:06Z")

</div>

If Pashley were to improve the 26" MUni design what changes should be made as a  
matter of priority? (constructive criticism required- pleeze) Note; They are now  
fitting viscount seats. Should the frame be ready drilled for a coasting brake?  
They told me suspension seatposts e.g. USE would not withstand side twisting and  
would not be viable, Their current tyre is to be changed, I recommended Richey  
Megabite or equivalents, I think the rim should be much lighter with lightweight  
DB spokes.

Comments?

Duncan

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### Author: ![system](https://unicyclist.com/uploads/default/original/3X/d/4/d44cf5a6365651cf6b50671d1ff0c84adf0c7726.png) [@system](https://unicyclist.com/u/system)
#### Post date: [November 14, 1999, 10:52pm UTC](https://unicyclist.com/t/what-do-you-really-really-want-in-a-muni/41610/2 "1999-11-14T22:52:42Z")

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Re: What do you really, really want in a MUni?

The number one improvement I would request is for a better wheel. The original  
wheel that came on my Pashley Muni did not last me very long. The spokes would  
not stay tensioned and as a result I was constantly breaking spokes. I had the  
wheel rebuilt with new spokes and a new rim. Now my new wheel is great and  
hasn’t given me any problems. I don’t know what the problem with the original  
wheel was but it didn’t work for me at all. Maybe a wheel builder would be able  
to analyze what’s wrong with the original wheel.

Lightweight wheels are nice for bikes, but are not necessary for unicycles. It  
is much more important to have a wheel that is strong and able to handle the  
forces involved in muni. And make sure the wheel is built well.

Wide rims are better for muni. Wide rims don’t let the tire fold over the rim  
when hopping sideways up a hill. Wide rims give the tire a better profile. Wide  
rims let you use fatter tires. Wide rims are a necessity for muni. I’m using a  
Sun Rhyno Lite on my Muni. Whatever rim is selected it should be at least as  
wide as the Rhyno Lite. To allow the use of a 2.6" tire the rim should be even  
wider than the Rhyno Lite.

Second improvement would be for contoured washers on the lollypop bolts just  
like Brett Bymaster suggested in his review of the Pashley Muni. The washers  
should be curved on one side so that they make 100% contact with the frame  
rather than just making contact in two places.

If there are any changes to the frame make sure that a 2.6" tire will still fit  
(even more clearance for a 2.6" tire would be better). This size of tire is  
becoming increasingly popular for muni.

I haven’t tried the Ritchey Megabite tire but Ritchey tires tend to have a  
softer compound that wears quickly when ridden on pavement. They are great in  
the dirt but wear quickly on pavement. Maybe not the best choice for a stock  
tire but a good choice for an after market tire. I’ve been using two tires which  
wear well when ridden on pavement and also do well in the dirt. “Connection” by  
Cheng Shin Tire and the “Specialized Hardrock’R”. The Specialized Hardrock’R is  
what I’m using now because it has better traction in the dirt but the Connection  
rides better on pavement.

[john\_childs@hotmail.com](mailto:john_childs@hotmail.com)

At 09:27 PM 11/13/99 -0000, you wrote:  
\>If Pashley were to improve the 26" MUni design what changes should be made as a  
\>matter of priority? (constructive criticism required- pleeze) Note; They are  
\>now fitting viscount seats. Should the frame be ready drilled for a coasting  
\>brake? They told me suspension seatposts e.g. USE would not withstand side  
\>twisting and would not be viable, Their current tyre is to be changed, I  
\>recommended Richey Megabite or equivalents, I think the rim should be much  
\>lighter with lightweight DB spokes.  
\>  
\>Comments?  
\>  
\>Duncan  
\>

* * *

Get Your Private, Free Email at [http://www.hotmail.com](http://www.hotmail.com/)

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### Author: ![system](https://unicyclist.com/uploads/default/original/3X/d/4/d44cf5a6365651cf6b50671d1ff0c84adf0c7726.png) [@system](https://unicyclist.com/u/system)
#### Post date: [November 17, 1999, 9:36am UTC](https://unicyclist.com/t/what-do-you-really-really-want-in-a-muni/41610/3 "1999-11-17T09:36:09Z")

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RE: What do you really, really want in a MUni?

\> the frame fits over the lollipops, and the bolts go through, yes? On my  
\> zephyr, the “stick” of the lollipop (I don’t know the proper word) is shaped  
\> like a squashed circle (1) and if you overtighten the bolt (like me) the  
\> frame cracks and gets more and more weak after you ride it around campus for  
\> several days after the incident. does the pashley lollipop round to better  
\> support the frame?

The Pashley is round, and the bolts go all the way through so it’s at least  
twice as crack-resistant as the Zephyr/Savage design. But even the Pashley frame  
is not a perfect fit over the bearing holder (you wouldn’t want it to be that  
tight), and putting bolts with flat washers into round surfaces is engineeringly  
lame, creating weak spots. But to their credit, I’ve never heard of a Pashley  
frame failing at the bolts. And that’s what Brett “Bloodman” Bymaster rides.

The Zephyr/Savage frame failure is very common. We had a guy at the first MUni  
Weekend who had to walk out because his frame came apart. These frames were not  
intended for use by adults, or strenuous use by kids, whether or not the  
manufacturer realizes it.

In time, someone will make a better unicycle for the same price, and the public  
will gradually become educated to know which one is better. Meanwhile, the  
Semcycle XL has a much more intelligent bearing attachment, with no undue stress  
points. Why aren’t they all made that way? I won’t mention whether or not all  
those frames come from the same Taiwan factory…

\> --Javan “you’re insane!” - some girl after watching me ride down a flight  
\> of stairs

You are. So? It’s fun!

Stay on top, John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone (reply to [jfoss@unicycling.com](mailto:jfoss@unicycling.com))  
[http://www.unicycling.com](http://www.unicycling.com/)

“Hi. I’m Jeff Lenosky.”

- David Poznanter

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### Author: ![system](https://unicyclist.com/uploads/default/original/3X/d/4/d44cf5a6365651cf6b50671d1ff0c84adf0c7726.png) [@system](https://unicyclist.com/u/system)
#### Post date: [November 13, 1999, 3:16pm UTC](https://unicyclist.com/t/what-do-you-really-really-want-in-a-muni/41610/4 "1999-11-13T15:16:28Z")

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Re: What do you really, really want in a MUni?

Duncan,

Geoffrey Faraghan offers the Thudbuster Unipivot seat post suspension system  
as an option on the Telford which works quite well. It is pivoted on a hinge  
and so resists side to side twisting. Neither does the seat give when you  
pull up on the handle to increase pressure on the pedals. Unfortunately,  
Thudbuster no longer manufactures the Uni-Pivot as it is outdated technology  
for MTBbut I bet they would do a run if they had a big enough order. I highly  
recommend the Unipivot. I got one from the factory that they put together  
from left over parts.

I like the idea of the frame being ready for a coasting brake.

I like the Viscount seat, but would rather have a Miyata handle. It would be  
great if someone made an airseat. It is an absolutely necessary. Although I can  
make my own, I would like to see a commercially made airseat.

The tire that came on my Pashley was worthless. I changed it immediately. Tire  
preference is almost as individual as seat prefference.

I wore down the spikes on the pedals and replaced them with higher quality BMX  
pedals with screw in spikes.

Some place to mount a speedometer that would be visible while riding  
would be neat.

All the best,

John Hooten

munibods wrote:

\> If Pashley were to improve the 26" MUni design what changes should be made as  
\> a matter of priority? (constructive criticism required- pleeze) Note; They are  
\> now fitting viscount seats. Should the frame be ready drilled for a coasting  
\> brake? They told me suspension seatposts e.g. USE would not withstand side  
\> twisting and would not be viable, Their current tyre is to be changed, I  
\> recommended Richey Megabite or equivalents, I think the rim should be much  
\> lighter with lightweight DB spokes.  
\>  
\> Comments?  
\>  
\> Duncan

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### Author: ![system](https://unicyclist.com/uploads/default/original/3X/d/4/d44cf5a6365651cf6b50671d1ff0c84adf0c7726.png) [@system](https://unicyclist.com/u/system)
#### Post date: [November 13, 1999, 4:26pm UTC](https://unicyclist.com/t/what-do-you-really-really-want-in-a-muni/41610/5 "1999-11-13T16:26:35Z")

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Re: What do you really, really want in a MUni?

Duncan wrote:

\> If Pashley were to improve the 26" MUni design what changes should be made as  
\> a matter of priority? (constructive criticism required- pleeze)

Try Renolds 531 frame… OK, that was a cheat because I already know that that  
is happening.

\> Note; They are now fitting viscount seats. Should the frame be ready drilled  
\> for a coasting brake? They told me suspension seatposts e.g. USE would not  
\> withstand side  
twisting  
\> and would not be viable, Their current tyre is to be changed, I recommended  
\> Richey Megabite or equivalents,

They are ok for big guys like you, I am too short in the leg to use them unless  
they can be cut down and then they don’t last any time at all. The one on my 28"  
mores about like anything.

There is a 2.6 Tiawanise import which would be superb. Melvin already knows the  
name. Big is really good, try my 26" some time.

\> I think the rim should be much lighter with lightweight DB spokes.

Need a wider rim, there are loads of decent down hill rims about now. They don’t  
let the big tyres flip over.

Cheers Roger

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### Author: ![system](https://unicyclist.com/uploads/default/original/3X/d/4/d44cf5a6365651cf6b50671d1ff0c84adf0c7726.png) [@system](https://unicyclist.com/u/system)
#### Post date: [November 14, 1999, 4:21am UTC](https://unicyclist.com/t/what-do-you-really-really-want-in-a-muni/41610/6 "1999-11-14T04:21:29Z")

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Re: What do you really, really want in a MUni?

munibods ([munibods@breathemail.net](mailto:munibods@breathemail.net)) wrote:  
: If Pashley were to improve the 26" MUni design what changes should be made as  
: a matter of priority? (constructive criticism required- pleeze) Note; They are  
: now fitting viscount seats.

Good news, that.

: Should the frame be ready drilled for a coasting brake?

Yep, it cant do any harm can it and would make life simpler if you want  
to fit one.

: Their current tyre is to be changed, I recommended Richey Megabite or  
: equivalents,

Can’t say I’m familar with those, my personal choice would be a X-counrty tyre  
rather than a mud plugger, as a lot of munis are now sold as starter unis, the  
mug plugger tyres are not so user friendly on light terrain.

: I think the rim should be much lighter with lightweight DB spokes.

Yep i’m with you on that one, light weight rim and normal size spokes, would be  
better than those girt fat ones they use now.

A third colour scheme might be nice, raceing green would be tastefull and still  
works with thier yellow stickers. Lighter cranks would be nice but may push the  
price up too far. I think the current price our LBS are selling them for is  
120ukp its about as much as folk will pay for a starter uni ( the top end of the  
range I admit) Even tho its lots less than half he price of a decent MTB. Bottle  
brazings on the back of the frame as well as the front might be an idea.

sarah

Ps how about a label with each uni listing some uni web pages? to help get new  
uniers in touch with other uniers.

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### Author: ![system](https://unicyclist.com/uploads/default/original/3X/d/4/d44cf5a6365651cf6b50671d1ff0c84adf0c7726.png) [@system](https://unicyclist.com/u/system)
#### Post date: [November 15, 1999, 3:34pm UTC](https://unicyclist.com/t/what-do-you-really-really-want-in-a-muni/41610/7 "1999-11-15T15:34:47Z")

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Re: What do you really, really want in a MUni?

In article \<382ddf71\_3@news2.vip.uk.com\>, “munibods”  
\<munibods@breathemail.net\> writes:

\>If Pashley were to improve the 26" MUni design what changes should be made as a  
\>matter of priority?

It would be nice if the wheel could be detached from the frame somewhat quicker  
than via the 4 bolts, although I do appreciate that will most likely compromise  
the security of the fitting. BUT it would make tyre & tube changing so much more  
attractive and I do get a lot of punctures, even with a supposedly heavy duty  
downhill tyre!

In pretty short time I had to upgrade saddle, pedals & tyre from the original  
spec and I am trying hard to ding the rim so I can justify a better one,  
although the rim is ok whereas the tyre & saddle( now obsolete thank goodness)  
were awful.

Will the frame take a 26" Gazaloddi tyre? I saw one mounted on a rim at DM’s  
worshop and it looks immense, more like a motorcycle wheel, but it may be the  
next big thing. excuse the pun 🙂 It appeared to seat on a standard width  
rim as well.

All in all I think the Pashley is great and is the best 120 quid I can remember  
spending. Perhaps there should be 2 models: the base model as is, and a GT model  
with top quality rim, pedals, tyre etc. for 50% more cost (still a bargain)

Jerry Cooper

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### Author: ![system](https://unicyclist.com/uploads/default/original/3X/d/4/d44cf5a6365651cf6b50671d1ff0c84adf0c7726.png) [@system](https://unicyclist.com/u/system)
#### Post date: [November 16, 1999, 9:53pm UTC](https://unicyclist.com/t/what-do-you-really-really-want-in-a-muni/41610/8 "1999-11-16T21:53:12Z")

</div>

Re: What do you really, really want in a MUni?

John Childs \<john\_childs@hotmail.com\> wrote in message  
news:19991115065243.75592.qmail@hotmail.com…  
\> Second improvement would be for contoured washers on the lollypop bolts  
just  
\> like Brett Bymaster suggested in his review of the Pashley Muni. The washers  
\> should be curved on one side so that they make 100% contact with  
the  
\> frame rather than just making contact in two places.

the frame fits over the lollipops, and the bolts go through, yes? On my zephyr,  
the “stick” of the lollipop (i don’t know the proper word) is shaped like a  
squashed circle (1) and if you overtighten the bolt (like me) the fram cracks  
and gets more and more weak after you ride it around campus for several days  
after the incident. does the pashley lollipop round to better support the frame?

–Javan “you’re insane!” - some girl after watching me ride down a  
flight of stairs

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<div class="post-metadata">

### Author: ![system](https://unicyclist.com/uploads/default/original/3X/d/4/d44cf5a6365651cf6b50671d1ff0c84adf0c7726.png) [@system](https://unicyclist.com/u/system)
#### Post date: [November 19, 1999, 6:54pm UTC](https://unicyclist.com/t/what-do-you-really-really-want-in-a-muni/41610/9 "1999-11-19T18:54:25Z")

</div>

Re: What do you really, really want in a MUni?

\>If Pashley were to improve the 26" MUni design what changes should be made as a  
\>matter of priority?

How about quick release seats and wheels? Miyata seats (handles) Cyclometer  
mount, brakes, and better tires. Need to improve quality of the pedals too.

I could use reflectors, for night riding, to make it legal in my town. The Vista  
light I have keeps falling off when I take a hard crash.

JD Miller

---

<div class="post-metadata">

### Author: ![system](https://unicyclist.com/uploads/default/original/3X/d/4/d44cf5a6365651cf6b50671d1ff0c84adf0c7726.png) [@system](https://unicyclist.com/u/system)
#### Post date: [November 17, 1999, 12:29pm UTC](https://unicyclist.com/t/what-do-you-really-really-want-in-a-muni/41610/10 "1999-11-17T12:29:16Z")

</div>

Re: What do you really, really want in a MUni?

InsPark  
\>writes:  
\>  
\>All in all I think the Pashley is great and is the best 120 quid I can  
remember  
\>spending. Perhaps there should be 2 models: the base model as is, and a  
\>GT model with top quality rim, pedals, tyre etc. for 50% more cost (still  
\>a bargain)

Great idea!

Also on both frames - braze on some cantilver bosses for V-brakes (rear facing).

I think ideally for experienced muniers users they should ship a frameset with  
just frame, bearings and axle and 22mm shim. This would save stripping down the  
wheel to put on you favourite downhill rim etc.

Leo White