What type of cranks should I buy for trials and muni riding? I don’t want to spend too much money, most likely no more than $40.
-Hugh
As no one else’s replied yet… I’ve never done trials, but I’ve done a fair amount of MUni, but no drops.
And my naive answer is I’m not sure it makes that much difference. Choose between square taper fitting (cheap and simple) or splined (expensive but more robust) and choose between aluminium alloy or steel. Aluminium alloy is less dense, than steel, so ‘alloy’ components are generally lighter, but steel is stronger, weight for weight.
I just buy the basic ones from Unicycle.uk.com and I’ve simply never had a problem.
Shorter ones are stronger. ;0)
Re: what crank brand for trials/muni?
On Sat, 7 Jun 2003 13:05:03 -0500, universacycle
<universacycle.oo0ra@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote:
>What type of cranks should I buy for trials and muni riding?
For cotterless cranks (the ones with the square hole), Bicycle Euro
comes to mind as good strong cranks for little money.
Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
Different drummer? I’m my own band!
Ohh, I forgot to mention, that I need cotterless cranks.
Hugh,
What is the wheel size? if its a 24" than your probably going to want something arround 160-170mm Shorter is Stronger as long as the LASCO brand isnt on there. If your using a Mod wheel 19" then I would go for some Doltec or Bicycle Euro’s in the 125mm department.
I like the BE’s alot while I had them but for any serious trials even these wont last long.
Chex
Dotek 140mm cranks are out of stock indefinately. Uni.com can’t get them any more. The 170’s seemed to be still in stock, but I would imagine that those, too, will be gone once stock runs out.
I have a 24" muni with 2.6" tire, and I was thinking about getting some black steel bicycle euros. Will 150mm be long enough to go up offroad hills? And are those aluminum bicycle euros strong? I assumed they weren’t, being as they’re aluminum.
-Hugh
Re: what crank brand for trials/muni?
On Sun, 8 Jun 2003 13:33:38 -0500, universacycle
<universacycle.opwtb@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote:
>I have a 24" muni with 2.6" tire, and I was thinking about getting some
>black steel bicycle euros. Will 150mm be long enough to go up offroad
>hills?
A division line has lately appeared to run squarely through the MUni
community.
Answer 1: Yes they are long enough for most hills, and 150’s will gain
you speed everywhere. And you can always walk if it’s too steep.
Answer 2: Not for all hills so to be sure you need 170’s. Who cares
for speed or elegance?
From the wording it’s hard to tell what my answer would be.
Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
Different drummer? I’m my own band!
I’ve just done a search using 150 and 170 and got the following results: -
There’s a lot of stuff to browse through covering many issues including hill climbing, control over obstacles and whether 170’s are worse or better for your knees.
As I recall and if I did the math correctly. The percentage of
a 158mm crank to a 2.6 Gazz radius is nearly equal to that of
the 170mm cranks to a 3.0 Gazz radius.
The longer Montys are 158mm, but more than 40 bucks.
I used the 158mm cranks with a 2.6 for a weekend after riding with 170mm with a 3.0 Gazz. It still felt short and different. HOwever, with more time I might have become more used to it.
Re: what crank brand for trials/muni?
On Sun, 8 Jun 2003 23:40:46 -0500, teachndad
<teachndad.oqotm@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote:
>As I recall and if I did the math correctly. The percentage of
>a 158mm crank to a 2.6 Gazz radius is nearly equal to that of
>the 170mm cranks to a 3.0 Gazz radius.
Doubtful. The effective wheel diameter of my 24 x 3 Halo Contra tyre
is 25.5". A 24 x 2.6 tyre would have to have a 23.7" diameter then.
(Also, for the cross sectional diameter of the tyre (in stead of the
wheel diameter) the math doesn’t work out. That would be pointless
anyway.)
Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
Don’t take life so seriously… it’s not permanent.