Unicycle weight?

Seems I read a lot here about the concern with the weight of a unicycle. What is the advantage of a few less pounds? Say if you have a 36" and it is a pound or two heavier than the other? Or a muni?


I used to be a total weight weenie when it came to my MTB from more of a what was achievable rather than from a performance benefit perspective.

The best place to lose weight on a Uni (or bike) is the wheels as rotational weight has to be accelerated so the heavier the wheel the more energy is required, a light wheel will accelerate noticeably faster and easier.

Weight saved on the non rotational part is not as important because unless you are a professional rider and have no excess body fat you will always be better losing a few pounds off yourself which is also far cheaper (I have lost almost half my Uni’s weight since I started riding a month ago!).

A lighter Uni (bike) will be easier to move about by a small margin but there is always a trade off, all the riders weight and force is going through one wheel and one fork unlike a bike so it needs to be very strong which comes at a price in weight (unless you spend lots), by going light you may have a thinner walled tyre so get more punches, lighter cranks that may bend etc

If you can find a lighter tyre and inner tube that will still meet your needs and the trails you ride then go as light as you can, everything else is just bragging rights (says some one with a 16lb front suspension MTB :p)

I am well over my weight issues now and love my Duro 24x3" tyre which is almost twice as heavy as BOTH my mtb tyres :stuck_out_tongue: I am looking at swapping to a Large Marge rim which will add a pound in the worst place lol

On a 36 the only thing I would worry about lightening would be the wheel. Basically get a Foss or 29er tube and you are good to go. A lighter wheel will make the unicycle more nimble, easier to accelerate, slow down etc.

A MUni makes a bit more difference on overall weight since the whole unicycle is going up and down a fair amount. To a certain extent a heavy wheel can be an advantage on the downhills or plowing through the rough stuff as it gives you more stability.

Overall is is not a big deal though.

If you do a lot of walking carrying your unicycle it is nice if it is lighter as well.

However, if you start talking about Trials and Street riding, the weight of the entire UNI comes into play because you do much more obstacle hopping…

At a point, no matter how good you get, I find there is a time when you buy the lighter parts for braging rights. Unicycling is so addicting, that all the extra cash you get will eventually turn into unicycle stuff. For me, I get SO stoaked over little things like a new crank wrench, or bike pump, or new peddals. I buy light parts with my long earned cash, because it makes me happy, and I feel good to give my uni a new upgrade. You don’t need the extra pound or two, but if you really get into it, you will find yourself with it eventually.

It’s more than just total weight, you need to consider where that weight is located as well as factors such as tire width, wheel size, etc…

My KH26guni and my 26" Oregon weigh about the same, BUT, the Oregon takes a whole lot more energy to ride due to the fatter tire (4") and having some much weight (1850gm) on the outside of the wheel. The guni has a much narrower tire (2.4") and much less weight (850gm) on the outside of the wheel, so it feels and rides more agile; the extra weight is in the hub at the center of the wheel.

If I compare my KH26guni to my KH29, the 29 is less effort to ride because it is lighter weight overall, though it sports the same tire, it takes less effort to ride it down the trail, hop, etc…but it has a bigger wheel so for tight stuff and working through obstacles the 26guni is better even though it’s heavier.

The only uni that seems “overweight” to me is the Oregon, but when I really want to ride it for XC I do and it is fine; though there are times when I wish I had my 26 or 29…

The most “significant” reductions can be found through tire/tube choice, somewhat with cranks/pedals/hub, less so for seat/frame/post.

If you realy want to drop weight without spending money, assuming you could afford to lose it, a diet is the best choice :smiley:

I wouldn’t mind a few more pounds on my person :roll_eyes: I have the rare (especially in the US) condition of difficlutly w/ gaining weight.

W/ some more leg muscle I could prob get through tricky terrain and up hills a bit easier.

I broke the frame on my DX and Torker didn’t have any more of the older ones and insisted the new one wouldn’t work (it would w/ bearing spacers), so they sent me a LX frame which is half the weight of the original. I can just barely fit the stock 2.6" tire in there so I’ve ridden it a few times and I can’t tell any difference while riding, it is a tad easier to carry.

The only effect weight wise I’ve noticed is a larger heavier tire which had many good and a few bad effects. Since I don’t do any drops, a 3" tire is a bit overkill for me. I’m thinking my perfect tire would be a 2.7"

After experimenting with all sorts of weights on my uni i have to say it makes a massive difference to how i feel on my uni.The lighter it is the more i feel like riding and pushing myself.I’ve also noticed that 500grams difference changes my sidehop height by about 5cm.Static hops are affected even more