I rode up to the local REI and they let me put my 36er on their display unit and it seemed to be pretty secure, and anyone with a 36er knows they are sometimes a little difficult to fit inside your car.
I drive a miata, so i know how difficult it is to get a coker in a small car (rather impossible for me). I have a bike rack called bones or saris(?) that works nicely. Of course it looks incredibly weird, but it gets the job done.
Any reason why you put the Uni’s on with the seat towards the back rather than forward? I would think the seat base would catch air the way you have it causing it to be less aero dynamic…
But more important you have had no issues, and Uni’s are stable and secure?
Have you ever seen a plane carrying a boat? they also do it backwards because it causes less turbulence and therefore less drag, I doubt it would make any difference with uni seats though. My guess is that it picks up less bugs that way.
Long answer: The unicycle would probably lean if the wheel strap wasn’t done up tightly. The Yakima has a ratchet strap, as does my Thule 510. That means that once you’ve done it up tightly, it’s not going to come undone while you’re driving.
The strap isn’t long enough to get round the fat Coker tyre when it’s fully inflated. I have to let some air out, squeeze the rim towards the rack as hard as I can, then do up the strap. If I then try to wobble the wheel from side to side the underinflated tyre allows more movement than I’m comfortable with. I pump some more air in and that solves the problem.
(Obviously this means you need to have a frame pump handy, and remember to mount the unicycle with the valve near the bottom where you can reach it. FWIW, I have exactly the same problems with both of the tyres that I use on my Muni.)
We’ve probably done in the region of 700 miles total with the Coker on the roof, mostly on motorways, some of it in bad weather.
No. The Thule 510 has a spring-loaded rubber-coated clamp. The clamp automatically stops closing shortly after the rubber starts to compress, when it’s holding the frame securely but nowhere near tight enough to risk squashing the tube.
The Yakima looks like it has a rather different mechanism. Looking at the picture, I’m guessing that you’d screw the clamp shut until you’re happy with it.
BTW, the Thule 510 is no longer made. This is probably the current equivalent: