Yes, we really ought to get a team (or teams) together pronto. I’m certainly up for it, and I’d assume Steve C, Tue and all the usual suspects will be as well, with no crustacian jockeying to distract them. Could be worth sending a PM to various people to remind them. I’d guess:
Spencer (semach), Steve C, Tue (tujotomi), Liam (domesticated ape), Ian Stockwell, Sam W, Keith (keg), Paul Royle, and possibly a couple of others (Alan Chambers(?), [sorry can’t remember your name] Wiggins(?), Beth)
Anna may be up for it again as well - she seemed quite keen after last year.
There’s also Sleepless in August of course. I’m seriously thinking about going solo again and hoping for some better conditions than last year, but it would be good to have a team there as well.
I use a helmet mounted halogen with battery in the camelbak. I think people have experimented with lights on frames but found it to be not that good - it never points in the right direction (in the air on downhills and straight at the floor on uphills) and it often obscured by legs.
I think the official minimum is 10W halogen (or equivalent power of LED/HID), but I think if you have a working light that you’re happy to ride by then they’re not that fussy. I tend to use 10W, which is enough for unicycle speeds. I’ve used 15W a couple of times but the longer runtime of the 10W is more useful than the extra light from the 15W IMO. On a bike when you’re going much faster it’s a different matter of course!
You’re also supposed to have another backup light in case the main one fails, but this can be just a torch. I’ve got a £10 3W cree led torch that’s almost as bright as the 10W halogen and runs off two AA cells for ages. I find halogen light much nicer to ride by though - the intense blueish light of LEDs seems to be much less good at cutting through mist than the yellower halogen light.
EDIT: PMs sent to Spencer, Steve C, Tue, Liam, Ian Stockwell, Sam W, Keg, Paul Royle, Alan Chambers and Beth. Hopefully if we’ve missed anybody they’ll hear from somebody else or see this thread.
That’s odd - it seemed to have gone out OK. I wonder if anybody else got them…
Most people use a 29er, some like a 36. Just to be different I prefer a 26!
If you’ve got a 29 that’s probably the best way to go - 24 would be a bit slow and 36 is an aquired taste (I’ve tried mine - bit faster on the open bits but I hate it in the woods. Some people love it and get faster laps than they would on a 29). A 26x3" is so similar in speed to a 29 that I can’t justify having both, so I use the 26. You don’t get punctures every lap on a 3" tyre either (although it is a bit heavier for the climbs)
EDIT: Keith - just checked those PMs in my sent box - it seems I missed you out. Sorry. Mystery solved.
I’ll probably have both of mine and see how it goes during the day. If it is dry and you feel good then a 36 can be brilliant. It smooths out bumpy grass etc much better than a 29, but gets a bit much in the mud and uphill when you’re knackered.
Yes I think wheel size choice depends a lot on the conditions (which can change pretty drastically). In 2007 it was so muddy at one point I think Sam resorted to a 24". That said its going to be sunny this year so i’d say a 29er is a good allrounder.
Thanks for the light info Rob, and the PM ing.
btw I kind of made an error on the dates in my first post, the 22nd is the monday afternoon after it, at which point most people will have gone home:o
Mud clearance can be important when it gets sticky. On last year’s Sleepless (extremely muddy) I used my 26" but with a normal 1.9" xc bike tyre. Worked quite well.[/QUOTE
I was thinking about mud clearance today. In my nimbus 29er i’m currently running the WTB Stout which works well but doesnt give much clearance at all, definitley not enough for MM.
My knowledge of bikes is that they generally choose thinner tyres to cut through the mud and find grip, yet unicyclists usually go for bigger tyres for a bigger surface area. Anyone tried out thin 29er tyres in mud?
I’d be interested to see how a cyclocross tyre worked on a unicycle in mud. Possibly a bit too skinny and puncture prone.
My 1.9" Z-Max worked well on the 26" in the mud, but I was very tempted to get hold of a 1.5" proper mud tyre and give that a go. Trouble is you have to run skinnier tyres harder to avoid pinch flats, so it’s not so nice on the rooty bits (most of the bikers have suspension to deal with that).
It’s so often a quagmire at Mayhem and Sleepless that I may well buy a skinny mud tyre and see how it works.