I’ve been hesitant to mention this because it’s probably a problem with my legs rather than the handle itself. But if I try to mount the nimbus 36er with the handle, in a way other than to freemount (so if I get on with the help of a passing lampost) I often hit my leg against one of the rear arms of the handle. It doesn’t happen when I freemount or if I lean on said lampost with my left hand. But if the lampost is on the right and I don’t swing my leg out of the way I get bruised on my left thigh. I’ve put a handle bar grip thingy cut in half over the two arms to try and avoid this and so far, so good.
Anyone have a comparison of this handle placement vs the closer placement on the GB4?
Yep (although I’ve only ridden 26 miles with the GB4). The T7 is obviously further from the front of the seat, but also a fair bit higher. I found it much easier to rest my hands on the handles while riding with this configuration. Whe riding hard i was less bent over whihc meant my back was more comfortable. Also it’s stiffer than the GB4 even if it’s mounted on a carbon fibre seat base, which I like because it helps to hold your weight of the saddle for comfort. However, I cant rolling mount for toffee holding the T7, and instead hold the KH style saddle handle behind it to mount. I’m deffinitely sticking to my choice of the two.
It’s a lot like adding a dashboard. 
Thanks for the review Mark.
I really want to get a fatter tire to test how much torque force this will make off-road; it’s comfortable for road riding because it sits out so much further, the hand placement feels natural, but it also changes the direction of downward force that a traditonal handle lets you put onto the pedals from your upper body. I’m not sure how this will play out on the trails…
Hope it was useful!
It’s very much like having a dashboard. I now have a combined compass / bell, a dial thermometer and a cyclometer mounted up front, with a mount for a front light. The back has my rear light and a crud catcher fitted as a mudguard (it’s quite flexible so seems like it might be able to survive the occasional drop OK).
Is that a 28"? It works nicely on my 36er - one thing that I’m noticing is that it feels like I can comfortable corner faster with the handle available to hold on comfortably. It’s nice to have the space to mount stuff and be able to lift myself out of the saddle.
With the T7, plus my expedition kit even rather long rides become really quite comfortable experiences.
I put a 22oz bottle on the front handle of the T7. I was worried that the weight of the water would throw off my riding, but I really didn’t notice any difference. I really like being able to reach down and just grab the bottle while riding, it is extremely handy.
Problem is that I’ve mounted an inexpensive Schwinn’s water bottle . The bottle stayed in while riding, but I’m sure it will fall out with a upd or even a planned dismount. So I’ve wrapped an elastic cord around the thin neck of the bottle and T7 bar to hold the bottle in the holder. That makes it a little tricky to remove the water bottle when riding, worst it is very hard to put the back in the holder.
Anyone have a good way to keep the bottle in the bracket, somehow so that the bottle can be removed easily when riding, and held more securely? Maybe I’ll need to buy a better/different water bracket, but they all look like they would have a similar problem since they are designed to hold the bottle closer to vertical than horizontal as on the T7.
Following up on my the loose water bottle, I tried compressing the frame so it bends to hold the bottle tighter. This will work well if the bend doesn’t relax. The bottle is now held tightly. It’s such an obvious solution.
I know it’s frivolous, but I can’t help it. With my new T7 handle, I have entered the wonderful world of handle bar grips. The variety available is extremely exciting. Much better than the world of valve caps, which seemed to show so much promise, but which I lost faith with after my smilie face valve caps were nicked/borrowed without asking or returning at BUC last year.
good review… makes me waiting for it that much harder!
Chase
My rear bottle cage bosses are no longer useless… I stumbled across a bottle cage with pretty thick mounting brackets, and using a couple washers to push the cage out a little more I was able to get the bottom of the cage to just clear the back plate thing.
Any update or comments from prolonged use
Are you still using it? Any new comments to pass along.
Does the cost justify the use.
How about durability and UPD
I had a T7 on my modded coker b4 giving it to my little cousin and he won’t even sell it to anyone cause his having too much fun with it. My modded coker included…
- 40" tyre
- Inverted T7 handlebar
- Magnesium pedals
- Bottle holder
and - Powdercoated with the Australian flag on it.
As for the UPDs, it’s best that you gain some experience on other unicycles b4 trying out the coker or 29er as these are not learners machines. But after a while, it becomes to ride and you ride over potholes like it was never there. So UPDs aren’t possible. 
The T7 is great for touring…my only complaint is the bottle cage bosses and how weak they are because of the way they are welded to the handle frame. They snap off over time which sucks 
The rail itself is invaluable for distance riding as you really need to get your perfect seat angle to do 50+ mile days on a uni.
B4 i got my T7 inverted, i had a custom made bottle holder in the middle of the handlebars. So breaking the cage wasn’t that easy to do. 
Who distributes the product
Is it just UDC or are other vendors out there ?
I think it’s a UDC original design.
I would think that too also. But you never know.
Need help to confirm if this will fit
I have a bedford 29" wheel with a 22.2 Seat post.
If I purchase the T7 Handle bar will if fit ?
I recognize that I need the rail post and adapter.
The rail post and adapter specified is a 27.2 KH which won’t fit my uni.
Does anyone have a link to the vendor to ask questions?
you would need to buy a rail-type seat post that is a 22.2
This is from Isaac Steiner