It looks solid, but I wonder if it might not increase the chances of bracket failure. By moving in a UPD a lot of energy is redirected that would otherwise be absorbed by the parts. I would personally rather use a silver sharpie to mark my ideal setting so that it could easily be reset. Actually since you have holes that match up it would be easy to use what you already have to accomplish the same thing. Maybe even better since you can use a pin to align the holes perfectly before you clamp it down.
Before drilling the hole I considered whether it would alter or weaken the integrity of the bracket. I didn’t drill too close to the existing holes so I think it should be fine. I’ve upd’d a couple of times since adding the bolt and everything is fine. I have thick rubber handgrips on the handlebars which I reckon will absorb some of the shock in a upd.
I have in the past used a guide mark as you suggest and it works fine but the regular dislocation and adjusting of the t-bar causes wear and tear on the bracket and bolts anyhow.
Another advantage of the extra bolt is that it prevents the t-bar from dropping when I’m leaning on the handlebars. This happened once when the t-bar dropped sharply while I was cycling but I managed to recover without falling.
I remember someone suggesting a grooved bracket like on a microphone stand. Was it Lance or LargeEddy?? which I think is a great idea
But I will include the bracket in my pre cycle check list for good practise.
I’ve added a rubber sleeve on to my brake lever extension to improve grip. The rubber sleeve fits very tightly and I made it from a chopped rubber handlebar grip. It also increases the size of the brake lever extension making it easier to find which is reassuring when I’m eye balls out riding down a steep hill. lol!
The crank on my impulse 36er was very creaky so I took it out and fitted an Oracle 125mm hub. I didn’t have to change the spoke length or anything else. The hub was a perfect fit. I had difficulty with arranging the spokes properly so Googled a very good tutorial called… ‘Without the bullshit. How to build a 36 spoke wheel’… and followed the video step by step. By following the tutorial I was able to build the wheel with no mistakes.
That’s the first time I ever built a wheel. I then adjusted the spoke tension using my KH 36er as a guide. I took it out on the trails and it ran perfectly and the crank is silent.
If your building a 36 spoke wheel then I would highly recommend using the above tutorial. Maybe someone reading this might upload the tutorial. I don’t have the computer skills to do it myself.
I’m having difficulty uploading the video. It’s just a short video of me changing a crank which might be of help to someone out there. You can google it on youtube, just type “changing cranks is easy”. Maybe someone can upload it for me, thanks.