Tweak my ride

Despite all the great unicycle models and parts available many riders come up with new ideas to improve their unicycle in some way and so they make a little adjustment to their unicycle.

These ideas may be helpful to other riders so if you if you’ve “tweaked” your unicycle please share your idea on this thread

Here’s a tweak to get the thread started…

I found a really good angle for my KH T-bar but in a upd sometimes the the T-bar moves out of position. I didn’t want to lose this setting so I put an extra bolt through the pivotal support system.


Rather than cycle my uni on congested roads I prefer to tow it to a quieter place and ride there. So I made a tow bar and socket from a Nimbus shadow handle set.




Since I saw that picture on the Pictures of your latest Ride thread, I’ve been meaning to ask you what the rear handlebar holder thingy is for. Looks like you’ve answered that one for me :smiley:

How is the other end attached to your bike rack? Or is it just poked through?

I bought two U bolt brackets in a car parts shop. They are normally used to fasten on exhaust pipes.


It looks solid, but I wonder if it might not increase the chances of bracket failure. By moving in a UPD a lot of energy is redirected that would otherwise be absorbed by the parts. I would personally rather use a silver sharpie to mark my ideal setting so that it could easily be reset. Actually since you have holes that match up it would be easy to use what you already have to accomplish the same thing. Maybe even better since you can use a pin to align the holes perfectly before you clamp it down.

Let’s see how it holds up over time.

Before drilling the hole I considered whether it would alter or weaken the integrity of the bracket. I didn’t drill too close to the existing holes so I think it should be fine. I’ve upd’d a couple of times since adding the bolt and everything is fine. I have thick rubber handgrips on the handlebars which I reckon will absorb some of the shock in a upd.

I have in the past used a guide mark as you suggest and it works fine but the regular dislocation and adjusting of the t-bar causes wear and tear on the bracket and bolts anyhow.

Another advantage of the extra bolt is that it prevents the t-bar from dropping when I’m leaning on the handlebars. This happened once when the t-bar dropped sharply while I was cycling but I managed to recover without falling.

I remember someone suggesting a grooved bracket like on a microphone stand. Was it Lance or LargeEddy?? which I think is a great idea

But I will include the bracket in my pre cycle check list for good practise.

Thanks jtrops

I’ve added a rubber sleeve on to my brake lever extension to improve grip. The rubber sleeve fits very tightly and I made it from a chopped rubber handlebar grip. It also increases the size of the brake lever extension making it easier to find which is reassuring when I’m eye balls out riding down a steep hill. lol!



Just to clarify. The pictures are of two different unicycles, one for road and one for trails. I made two rubber brake lever extension sleeves, one for each unicycle.

The crank on my impulse 36er was very creaky so I took it out and fitted an Oracle 125mm hub. I didn’t have to change the spoke length or anything else. The hub was a perfect fit. I had difficulty with arranging the spokes properly so Googled a very good tutorial called… ‘Without the bullshit. How to build a 36 spoke wheel’… and followed the video step by step. By following the tutorial I was able to build the wheel with no mistakes.

That’s the first time I ever built a wheel. I then adjusted the spoke tension using my KH 36er as a guide. I took it out on the trails and it ran perfectly and the crank is silent.

If your building a 36 spoke wheel then I would highly recommend using the above tutorial. Maybe someone reading this might upload the tutorial. I don’t have the computer skills to do it myself.


Just post the link and let the forums figure it out :wink:

EDIT: Or not…

2nd EDIT: There, I did it. I feel smart now…

Thanks PM. Well done. For future posts… How do I post a link?

Just to correct my previous post it was the hub that was creaking not the crank. That is of course why I replaced the hub and not the crank.

Just copy and paste the web address. (Hint: if your browser uses “https” by default, delete the s, so it’s just “http.” Apparently, that makes a difference with the forum software.)

Thanks Lance but how do I paste ? The last time I tried that, my computer didn’t give me the option of pasting.

Ctrl-C is copy, Ctrl-V is paste. You can also right-click your mouse to do those same things. Not hard.

There are detailed instructions for this many places on the web.

Good luck!

Thanks Lance.

Hope this works

Nope, the video didn’t upload. I’ll try again.

I’m having difficulty uploading the video. It’s just a short video of me changing a crank which might be of help to someone out there. You can google it on youtube, just type “changing cranks is easy”. Maybe someone can upload it for me, thanks.

Thanks for the video :slight_smile:

Could you please tell me a couple of things…

Where do I get the tool in the video from, and how much?

Will it work on my new Nimbus Oracle 36er (ordering tomorrow!!)

Is that what Isis cranks look like?

Cheers, James

Thanks James for posting the video address. The tool is called a “crank extractor” You can buy one from UDC U.K. for £8. or your local bike shop might sell them.

Yes it will work on the Oracle 36er.

Yes the crank in the video is an I.S.I.S. crank.

Have fun on your 36er. I learnt to ride my 36er on a football pitch before going onto a hard surface.

Hope this helps.