The rolling mount is great for shorter people because it is easier to get high enough when your body is in motion opposed to the static mount when you stand still. It can also be used to mount uphill. If your legs are tired, it is also easier to do the rolling mount than the static mount.
Static mount: Riding a unicycle part 27: Free mounting a unicycle (tutorial) - YouTube
Neat!
And always a cool choice of music. I know right away it’s a tutorial from you, it sounds like a signature almost - even though you don’t live in the wild west!
Thanks pierrox
It is a very instructive video, you have made. It explains very clearly the position of the pedals before “take off” and the number of steps.
I am one of the shorter persons (riding a 29") 
, and with some more exercise I think I will learn it, thanks to the good explanations.
Best regards,
Sanne
Thanks Sanne
Thanks for this video.
This is one of those that inspired me this morning when I decided to try static jump mount and rolling jump mount on my 36er.
I never did this before and I tried those 2 kinds of jumping mount during 2h30.
I didn’t ride, just trained those mounting techniques.
I finally arrived to the point where I was successful 7-8 out of 10 times
I have some common points with your way of doing it: same foot on the first pedal, and I also hold the handlebar with the right hand prior to go and the saddle with the left hand.
As I firstly focused on the static jump mount (without making the wheel rolling), I started with a position pretty far away from the 36er, holding the saddle and handlebar with my arms outstretched in front of me.
That is the main difference.
In the beginning weither I was trying static or rolling jump mount it didn’t work, or it randomly worked, because I didn’t realize that when I jump and am about to land on the first pedal , the wheel has to be immobile, and for that I have to flex my arms while I am approaching it.
That makes sens, cause if I am not flexing my arms during my jump I will just continue to push the unicycle in front while the wheel is supposed to stay still.
When I realized this, I started to make a success of nearly all my tries.
when you only do rolling jump mount it is not necessary to hold the seat and handlebar far away from you with outstretched arms, you can do like in the video but if you also do static jump mounts it helps to be somehow far away from the 36er to have moment without changing the positions of the crank from the start to the landing.
In order to have a similar starting point with both static jump mount and rolling jump mount, I decided to adopt the outstretched arms position at the start of each of both techniques.
The only big difference will be the position of the cranks at the beginning.
With static jump mount I obviously use the same cranks position as for free mount : left pedal just in front of me.
I keep this crank position, place my right foot a good step behind me and start to stretch my arms while I am placing my left foot a second step behind me.
The (frame of the) 36er is in a horizontal position at this moment and I am pretty far away from it but the cranks are on the 3:45 PM position (indeed the left pedal is a little bit lower) and will stay at this position during all the process.
my body is also a little bit stretched, I am not sanding in a vertical position.
Then I transfer my body weight from my left foot to my right foot and I move my left foot from behind me to the left pedal thanks to a good right foot jump.
During all this process my arms will pass from a stretched position to a flexed position in order to keep the wheel at the exact same place while I’m getting closer.
Finally seated on the saddle I let my body fall forward a bit and start pedaling.
With rolling jump mount in 3 steps, I start the same way but I walk a little step in front in such a way left crank is up and I’m holding the seat and handlebar with outstretched arms ( but contrary to the static jump mount my body stands vertically and my feet are in a normal position).
Then I push (my body and the 36er) with my right foot to do a first left step arriving on my left foot, then I do a right step from where I jump propelled by my right foot.
At this exact moment I start to flex my arms at the same speed I approach the unicycle and land the left pedal.
At this moment I am on the saddle, I also land the right pedal and I keep the handle bar close to my body until I pass beyond the gravity center and wait for the good moment to start pedaling.
My other way of mounting the 36er (it was my only way until today) is by doing a freemount immediately followed by few hops until I let myself falling forward and then start pedaling, but I find it harder to pedal from this point.
It’s like the static jump mount and rolling jump mount both make first pedaling more easy because of the moment it brings.
It’s is more simple to explain with a video, isn’t it? 
Following this video, there was a discussion about whether it’s a rolling mount or not if the wheel stops (Definition of a Rolling mount). You may also be interested in this discussion about mounting a 36": different/easy ways of mounting a 36"
Good point about the flexing of the arms. I think it is easier in the beginning when you bring the wheel to a full stop before you jump.
I’ve seen several variations of static mounts, and your’s is one that works good for a lot of people. I do it a bit different. I push the wheel a little bit forward, so that I can push down on my left foot (the one on the back pedal), and then I get up on my toes when I kick off on my right foot. You can watch it in this thread where it is also a discussion about mounting: Tutorial on how to fremount a 24" and a 36" unicycle
I met a guy in the spring whom I’ve been riding with this fall. He has learned everything by himself not watching any videos and not reading this forum, so he has developed an interesting and quite impressive mount. He puts the seat in place, the left foot on the pedal and both arms out to the side. Then he does a small hop on his right foot to get forward momentum before he jumps (still with both arms out). He calls it the “Take off” which I find very suitable.
Thank you for posting this, UniMyra .
I’m in my 30th year of unicycling, and I’m on my 3rd 36er, and I have always used a static mount.
Inspired by this video, I went out today and tried this “not quite rolling” mount and it worked almost every time.
I have ridden 20 or more miles without a dismount before, and I can idle the 36er for a reasonable time, but despite this I always found the static mount a big demand on my energy budget. I was on almost 100% success rate, but every mount was a Big Thing.
Using a simplified version of the technique shown in this video, I think I have made some significant progress in a matter of minutes.
I always mount left foot “down” and I have got this new mount working by starting on my left foot, stepping right, then left onto the pedal. That is, one full step, then mount, and it feels safe, confident, and less tiring than what I was doing.
Thank you again.
Thanks Mikefule. Glad to hear you liked it. I’ve gone back to doing the (semi) static mount almost exclusively myself. I only do a rolling mount now and then for fun.
I do the static mount exactly like I did in this video: https://youtu.be/yqWtEBgG300?t=95
One of the tips in the video is to stretch your ancle an get up on your toes when you kick off. This method works even better for me now, because after doing it for a long time I have built up strength in my ancle and calf.
The combination of pushing the wheel forward and go up on my toes has proven very effective for me. In the beginning my foot felt unstable and wobbly, but now it’s like bringing a ladder along for the ride. On inclines I mount slightly down hill, and hop in the right direction.
I mount my 29’er pretty much the same way, but it is of course a lot easier.
That static mount is pretty much what I’ve always done in the past. I particularly liked the “adanced” technique where you crash into the hedge.
I did this too when I was just starting out. Would definitely help a lot of unicyclers out there who are just beginning specially the short ones.
UniMyra’s tutorial videos are always so well explained.
I did one of these mounts about the third time I rode my 36. I was getting a bit tired and out of frustration with a couple of failed static mounts I thought, “I need a rolling mount”, without really knowing what to do, and just did it.
I had the pressure of being right outside a pub with patrons on the verandah watching and didn’t want to keep failing in front of them.
Do you think I have ever been able to do it since? Not even once. I eventually gave up and just kept practising my static mounts.
I will give it another go now that I have seen that video. I can see now the problem is that I have been trying too hard to keep the uni rolling.
Really it is more of a static mount with a run up. The rider momentum is the key factor. It is all about using that momentum to get up there.
I imaging it could be eventually built into a fully rolling mount and it represents an excellent step along the way.
Yes, the key for me seems to be pause for half a second once my first foot lands on its pedal. When I get it right I’m carried effortlessly up onto the saddle. When I get tired and can’t mount it’s usually because I’m forgetting to pause.