Ok I’ll bite, how much weight savings is there versus the hassle of going tubeless and maintaining a tubeless tire? FWIW, I’ve put Slime in my tire (KH24 Schlumpf with 24x3 Nokian Gazz) and haven’t had any puncture issues ever in the 4 years I’ve been running this set up (even pre-Schlumpf) I also like to run really low PSI (15-18 psi) so I don’t know how low one can run on a tubeless setup? I appreciate the novelty but don’t think it’s for me. I would like to figure out some ways to make my setup a bit lighter though…
Munisano fwiw, I’ve been running the 24 GUni tubeless since last September, over a year now - no hassles, no maintenance. I just check the pressure every now and then, top up as with a tubed tire. Love the feel of a tubeless ride, 36’er is tubeless too for over a year now. The pressure I run in the 24 varies, 20-30 psi, usually around 25 psi but I’m not that anal with tire pressure, probably don’t check it often enough.
The tube that comes with the KH24 weighs about 425 grams (drilled KH 24 rim is around 650 grams). Even allowing for some Stans goop in the tubeless setup, tubeless is a significant saving in rotating mass.
You can pick up a tubeless valve for close to nothing at a car tire shop, or get fancier ones through bike shops, or re-use part of a tube. The tubeless on my 24 Guni the was done at a local bike shop, when the Schlumpf wheel was getting built up. Three rounds of a clear mylar tape were used first (the first round with the sticky side facing towards the inside of the tire, not outwards facing the rim holes where the sticky side would get coated in debri). Pretty cool really, seeing the tubeless goop sloshing around against the rim tape:
Given the tight fit of the Duro 3.0 on the KH24 rim I don’t think tubeless issues at the tire/rim interface are going to be that likely/frequent.
Still really it’s whatever works for everyone.
I think a lot of ride characteristics come from the tyre you use to go tubeless with. Pete and I both did ours on the 24x3 Duro which has nice solid side walls so the ride characteristics are still good. If your relying on an inner tube to give support your tyres thinner sidewalls it might also be a problem. Another thing that i guess affects it is your weight. I’m a light-weight, only about 67kgs so tubeless might be less of a compromise for me than a larger rider.
I don’t think you need to worry too much about the correct type of valve, or brand name rim strip for this conversion. I used a schrader valve from an old trials tube- just leave a 1.5cm ring of the tube around the valve and jam it through a cross slit you put in your tape. With a bit of force it will sit nice and firm.
@Outdoorjunkie- Just cut a functioning valve out of any old tyre- leave a 1.5cm ring of inner tube around it. Once your tape is all stuck down poke a x in it with a screwdriver and then jam the valve in there. It will be a tight fit but once its in it will be airtight
@ Drac- That sounds exactly like what happened to me on my first attempt. Try again with more tape layers and be really careful when re-seating the tyre (don’t put holes in your tape with tyre levers!)
Not enough to warrant the hassle, esp if you are not having problems with tubes.
Seriously, after I spent an hour cleaning dried sealant out of a tire, I can’t ever see wanting to switch to tubeless.
I’m definitely interested in this topic, especially as I have a Schlumpf hub that has added a huge weight penalty to my KH24 (but it’s worth it IMHO!). I’m about the same weight as you @napalm and usually run 15-18psi with my 24x3 Nokian Gazz. Can I run this low of PSI tubeless? I also have a Duro but don’t like it quite as much. Perhaps I’ll try this on my 36er over the holidays, would be good to reduce that rotational weight there as well (might be an easier conversion?).
Thanks for giving me food for thought!
I’m thinking about doing it on my 36er, since that tube is super heavy and a blow out at speed would be, well, bad.
@ nurseben- Worth the hassle? Well If my tubeless set up lasts as long as Pete’s has then definitely yes. And it has not been that much of a hassle so far anyhow- about as much work as replacing a regular blown tube. I can imagine cleaning the dried liquid out of a tyre as being a small hassle (some soapy water and then hitting it with steel wool should do the trick though).
A munisano, I run those pressures tubeless no problem. Give it a go. Even if you don’t like it, for $15 its a mod that is worth a try.
I know there are a few other threads regarding doing a 36er tubeless conversion, but nothing very recent and nothing involving a stock Coker setup. I’ve got a one of the newer Coker Big One’s with the standard button tire. Is it worth my time to try and convert this setup to tubeless? I’d love to be able to afford a Nightrider wheelset and whole KH36er but that isn’t in the cards for me… If this would work that would be great, I’ve also got a junker 26" MUni that I could try that has an undrilled Alex32 rim and Nokian Gazz 26x3 tire…
One other question, from looking at some of the instructions on the Stan’s website, it looks like one can purchase an injection tube/syringe so that you can apply the sealant with the tire already seated on the rim. Has anybody tried this? Obviously one would have to properly secure the valve stem so that this would be viable… I was thinking that this might be a much easier way (less messy) to deal with the sealant…??
Yes, i’ve used a syringe to apply the sealant on a 29er conversion and it worked well. It was a standard syringe and not a Stans special one.
I used a cut open Schwalbe tube with Schrader valve and removable valve core. This allows you to get the air in faster and possibly a wider valve to get the goo in than a Presta. These tubes also come with a lock ring like a presta valve which helps keep it secure.
Going tubeless is super fun to do, give it a go.