Tubeless KH26 how to?

Have done a bit of searching on the forum.
A lot of people seem to have tubeless conversions of KH24s and KH26s.

Just after some practical advice.

Which specific products did you use?
Just rim tape and a valve with sealant?
Or rimstrip/sealant.

Planning on mounting a duro 26x3 to the KH26 2010 rim.

Thanks for any advice.


Stans tubless kits

Check out

That ghetto method with a smaller tube looks a bit messy and complicated.

Found another method using duct tape and cutting a valve out of an old tube.

Looks a bit easier but may need to leave the rim strip on the KH rim to cover the cut out holes.

A lot of mentions of ‘Duct’ tape in the videos and links.

Don’t use ‘duct’ tape from home a improvement store. Spend a few extra dollars and buy Gaffers tape. After a few months duct tape will be a permanent part of your rim. Or it will take a ton of effort and much solvent to get it all off and clean.

Gaffers tape will release cleanly even after a long period of time. Gaffers tape also conforms to shapes, like the inside of rims, much easier than duct tape. It’s also thinner so the original shape of your rim will be more true.

I did my 24" using the “ghetto” method; it works well and was much easier than the bike tyres I’ve done, probably because the tyre is nice and solid so sits on the rim well.

Photos of how I did it

Thanks for the link to the video Drac. I’ve got a few hours before i start work so i’m converting my 24" Gmuni to tubeless. Just got to duck down the road to get some sealant. Am trying to cut down the weight of my muni, getting rid of the tube is the easiest and cheapest way to start my weight weenieness. After that the next thing i’ll try to improve is the weight of my handle- got to find a good aluminium fabricator first though.

I’m going to go tubeless on my 29". Can’t ride so might as well work on the Uni’s.

Wow I see why so many go ‘ghetto’. 29er kit from Stan’s is $68.95

For really ‘ghetto’ there are recipes for home brew sealant. The people who run it seem to really like it because it does not dry out as quickly as Stan’s sealant and has ‘chunks’ to help with sealing flats.

Here is one I found - Homemade sealant: 1 part tubeless tire Slime, 1 part mold builders latex, 1 part Prestone, 2 parts water.

Haven’t read it yet but here is a whole thread about it:

I had not idea what ‘mold builders’ was so I did a little searching:

Guni tubeless

Good luck with that Mark. Let me know how you go.
Might do the same tomorrow on a day off. From what I’ve seen you already go too fast anyway!


Want to know what’s in Stan’s sealant?:

Well it all seemed to work well. The goo for one tyre only cost $10 from my LBS, and i installed it at the petrol station down the road (so i could use the compressor). Initially i couldn’t get it to inflate, the compressor was one of the new ones that only shot air out for pre set pressures, or a short burst for completely flat tyres. Eventually with some help from some soapy water i got the seal right and it inflated well. There were some little hissing air leaks at the drill outs on the rim but i got them to stop by flipping the wheel over (end on end) so the goo would slosh over the leaking areas. I havn’t got the time to actually ride it this afternoon but its holding air and seems to be much lighter! Best $10 mod ever. I’ll post a review of how it rides later this week.

@drac- Hope your mod goes well tomorrow. I’m not sure if i’ve ever met you? geared muni riders are a bit of a rare breed so if your ever down canberra way give me a yell and we can go riding. Do you ride much with the sydney guys at manly dam?


Hi Napalm. Pretty sure I met you at Wellington at Uniconxv. I was with Rob and Char riding KH24s around. Didn’t do any races. Now scored a KH26 guni last week. Loving it so far.

ok so just one tip with the tubeless thing. When remounting your wheel, remove one of your magura brake mounts to get the wheel in. If you drop the pressure to deform the tyre to make it fit it will burp and spit out goo over the place. I didn’t want to touch my brakes because i had them just the way i liked them but ended up having to remove one because the above happened. Duhhh… :roll_eyes:

@ Drac- Ok cool i remember you guys. Are you still all riding together? You should keep an ear out for events like the Australian Mountain unicycle weekend i organised earlier this year. It was a blast and the more riders the merrier if i get it up and running again next year! Keep on riding


@Napalm. All still riding together (when we get the chance). All keen to do some MTB events. I’m doing the Highland fling, but unfortunately on the bike as I haven’t had enough practice on the guni yet.
Should catch up for a weekend at Stromlo or something.

Did you use Gaffer tape for your tubeless?

cool! good to hear you still get out with your muni crew. Jamey Mossengren and I are doing the fling too. Jamey on a 29er and me on my G24. Come find us for a chat at some point! maybe even bring the Guni for a muck around.

Sorry about the Threadjack everyone else!


Ok so i got my tubeless set up to work and thought i’d post a few tips/review.

Initially on my first failed attempt I followed the video posted before, with a few little exceptions. I was worried that the drilled sections of the rim would be too large for the tape alone to seal so i left my current rim strip on there and taped over the top. This proved to be a mistake.

So here is what I did to make it work. You’ll need a tube of stans sealant (or other similar product), a functioning schrader valve with a 1cm ring of inner tube left around it, 1 roll of Norton ‘Bear’ tape. I got the 50mm version and it works perfectly for a 47mm rim (KH/nimbus) without having to strip it down. Some PLASTIC tyre levers, an air compressor and a tub of soapy water.

In the video the guy only goes around his rim once. For a narrow MTB rim with only spoke holes that might suffice but for a one with large drilled out sections i didn’t think it would cut it. So after cleaning the rim of dirt and grease i went around it twice using the tape at its full width (the extra few mms on the tape are important and should go a little up the rim wall and cover some manufacturing holes that you will see near the edge of the rim).

I got my thumbs in there to really press down the tape and make sure the seal was tight. After that i cut a length of the tape that was slightly wider than the drill outs and went around the rim again to reinforce the tape coverage of the drill outs.

Put in your sealant and make sure you are careful when replacing the tyre bead to the rim that it sits properly and that you don’t damage your nice tape seal with metal tyre levers! Hit it with the compressor until the bead sits in the rim and the tyre starts to take air. Once you have a moderate amount of pressure in there apply your soapy water in order to find any small leaks. On both my attempts i didn’t have any leaks where the bead sat in the rim. All the leaks i came across were through or around the drill outs. Simply leaving these leaks to seal on their own devices doesn’t work because gravity forces the goo to stay in the casing of the tyre.

In order to get the liquid to slosh over the affected areas and seal them i did the following. Find the leak, hold the wheel with that leak at the bottom. Then swing the wheel up and hold it inverted for about 30 seconds. Centripetal force will carry the liquid up and then slosh it over the affected area. Each time i did this the leak got noticeably weaker until it stopped all together.

Huurah! for about $15 you’ve cut a bunch of rotational weight from your ride. But what is the point you ask? Ok, here is a review

Tubeless Review

Ok, when running a DH tube in my Muni I never had a puncture. Never. Zip. In 4 years of constant abuse, international travel, races and rock gardens it was one thing i didn’t have to think about. That was the beauty of running a tube, but the pay off was a noticeable amount of extra rotational weight (note: you only notice it once you go tubeless)- and for that reason i don’t think tubeless is for everyone.

However, I run a 24" schlumpf muni on 125mm cranks and mainly ride XC and DH with rides regularly spanning 30-70km. In high gear, on a incline at 25km/h after 2 hours of riding already you start to notice things like weight, the load on your legs etc. Going tubeless is an instant improvement for this type of riding. The wheel feels more responsive in all types of climbing. For DH the feel is a little different but i can’t describe it in words. After a week or two of adjusting to it i think that the difference in DH situations will dissolve to nothing. But in going tubeless you do now have another thing to worry about. If you get a serious puncture you will have to stop, and chuck a replacement tube in there. If you hit stuff that is off camber at high speed there is a chance your tyre will burp and you’ll loose pressure, have to get off and pump up your tyre.

There are also questions about the longevity of the tape/liquid solution. I would be happy to deal with re-doing a tyre maybe 2 or 3 times a year but if its every month i’ll probably go back to tubes.

I have a 110km XC race this weekend so i’ll have a better idea of how i like it after that.


Great write up Mark! But how do you do the valve bit? Thanks! I’ve been thinking about tubeless, I’ll give it a go sometime I think :smiley: Oh and good luck for that race, that awesome!

Hi Mark,
Thanks for the review.
I too had the same problem with leaks through the rim tape.
I used gaffer tape 50mm with only one layer, put the valve in then a shorter layer over the valve insert. Left the pre-existing rim tape on.
Found I put some hole in the tape levering the tyre back on again!

Too many leaks so had to put the tube back in.

Will try again with some stans and maybe some other tape?


Nothing like the experience of cleaning dried sealant out of a tire; not my mess up :roll_eyes:

Anyway, be sure you want a softer ride before changing to a tubeless set up. The tube provides more than simply a way to hold air in the tire. Tubes provide another layer of rubber to improve rebound and sidewall strength.

I like running low air pressure, 12-14psi in my 26er Duro, 18psi in my 29er RR 2.4, both using the 26" Nokian DH tubes which are very thick. I pinch flatted at 18psi with a regular 29er tube, but running the Nokian DH tube at 18psi and I’m golden :slight_smile: