Truing a wheel after 2 days?

I’ve just got a Nimbus Trials unicycle (which moments) and have ridden it for two days.

Max drops I have taken it off are about 1.2 metres and max jump up is 50-60 CM.

But today, I found my wheel is badly out of true. It makes a single clicking sound each time it spins around.

This is my first time on a trials unicycle.

Am I riding it too hard?

I checked the spokes the first time I got it and they all seemed pretty tight.

Should I have tentioned them more?

How much slack should I have? Should I be able to move them very slightly?

Btw, I used search and couldn’t find a thread that helped me :smiley:

Thanks for any help! This is kinda bothering me to be honest. :stuck_out_tongue:

It isn’t normal; it indicates a bad wheel build.

corbin

Where are you from? It is not uncommon for UDC US to ship out wheel builds that are on the loose end of the spectrum.

I’m from Leicester, England.

Bought it from Unicycle.com.

Can anyone recommend any good tutorials for wheel truing?

I’m looking around. But I’m still not 100% on what I need to do. :stuck_out_tongue:

Thanks for the help! Really appreciate it.

This is what most of us have used. Great for building wheels as well.

EDIT: something that works good for unicycles is to keep the wheel in the frame and attach a zip tie to each frame leg. Cut the extra slack of each zip tie and spin them so that the amount sticking out is just a mm or so off the rim. Spin the wheel and where the zip tie touches is where you need to loosen spokes, which means you will tighten the spokes on the opposite side. This is the best way to turn you uni into a truing stand.

I dont know whether I would go as far as saying its a bad build although it may have been, it should probably not happen after a realy good thorough build. The problem is that when you lace a wheel you have to bend the spokes and they take a while to bed in. Even if you tighten them all up to good tension it will take normaly a few more trues untill its fully bedded in. The spokes need to bend around eachother and take up the shortest route. You cant put that kind of tension on with a spoke key, it needs to be riden or jumped on and then tightened again. This is why new builds normaly twang for a while but after its been re-tensioned a few times the spokes will stay tight and the twanging will stop.

Actually, that isn’t true! If a brand new wheel goes out of true in such a short time, then it is probably due to a bad wheel build. A properly build wheel will have the tensioned relieved while it is being built. That prevents having to true it again in the near future. Sheldon Brown’s website talks about this.

I also know from experience! I just built my KH 36 wheel last weekend. I got it nice and true with all the spokes at (about) equal tension (using a tension gauge). I then relieved the tension via compression of the spokes by hand, and also by pushing my weight onto the rim while it was on the floor. I popped it back into my “truing stand” and it was way out of true.

Having done this will produce a wheel that will stay true for a longer amount of time.

corbin

Are you saying that Corbin is Jason? :thinking:

Anyway, once you get it in true again, make sure you have enough pressure in your tire to prevent the rim from hitting the ground and use your body as much as you can to absorb the shock. Rough landings can be hard on your ankles too if you’re not careful. Good luck!

Ah you tricked me… it wasn’t very apparent then :stuck_out_tongue:

I just post most PMs in whatever the thread is that I got it from. So bring it to the table and let us all see. =p

There are two general kinds of wheel build you get with a new bike or unicycle. Machine-built or human-built. With human-built, it could run the spectrum but generally has a better chance of having been pre-tensioned and done nice and tight. With machine-built wheels, at least in the 80s and 90s there was a tendency for the wheel to be true, very consistently built, but usually not very tight. That’s why bike shops usually give you a free check-up after 30 days, because new wheels, brake adjustments etc. can get out of whack after a bit of use.

The other aspect I didn’t notice being discussed here is riding (landing, crashing) that may have created the problem. A 1.2 meter drop, done a little bit crooked, can destroy a wheel if done badly enough. So it could be a less-than-perfect wheel build (at least the spokes were tight, he said) or it could be one or more bad/hard landings, or it could be both.