Trials uni...

Im a fairly new unicyclist after an entry level trials uni. My biggest criteria is affordability, so Im interested to know what the minimum is for useability.

Obviously if I go too cheap I might end up with a uni I break constantly, which costs more in the long run. Im a light person (60kg) so I dont need super strong, but still. Any recomendations would be great :slight_smile:

Thanks

I recently bought a Torker LX and then realized i wanted to do trials and it isn’t strong enough. I thought about the Nimbus trials for a while but decided this is something i’m going to stick with and i’m planning on getting a Kris Holm or a Summit. Both have a splined hub which from what i hear is much stronger than a tapered/non-cottered hub, which the Nimbus has.

Other options include the Onza.

Took there under trials.

Ive looked at the Nimbus before, looks like a good deal all round. My biggest concern is the hub. Just how important is haveing the non-splined hub going to be? also will the cranks stand up to the abuse they might get? Considering Im not too heavy and Im farily new, I think it would probably do the job, but I wouldnt really know…

Arking

What is the difference in design of a trials uni and an rough terrian uni?

Newtouni

it’s the diameter of the wheel.

trials uni = 20" fat tire

rough terrain uni (MUNI)= 24" fat tire

that’s usually the case and not a rule.

-eric

both normally have the same hub crank length but muni’s are normally 24" up wards trials are normally 19"-20"

I’ve got a nimbus trials (sort of, same wheelset and frame), and it’s held up okay so far. Had a few problems because it hadn’t been very well assembled, had to get the hub threads re-done, but as for strength for jumping it seems okay. I’ve done a few 2-3’ drops with no problem, and I’m about 75Kg. A splined hub/cranks will be stronger, but will also add quite a bit to the price.

John

Getting back to the question of splined – vs.- tapered axle/crank, I have been frustrated many a time when cranks begin to wiggle loose and then I can’t seem to ever get them pressed on tight enough again. I know that many of us have near endless hours of riding on cotterless cranks but I have promised myself that I will not buy another set-up, that I intend to do drops and hops on, that is not splined. Another reason to go for the splined is that the cranks, from my experience, are less likely to bend because they are beefier from the get-go. The maintenance on my Profile and KH hubs is so minimal that it is hardly anything more than an occasional touch with an allen wrench. I have had no experience with the Onzas but understand they are quite good.

Another thing that I’ve seen through my own riding development and watching others learn to ride/hop/drop is that the more proficient that you get the more gentle you are on your gear. Some more advanced riders may be able to get away with some less strong gear but I find that when folks are learning they don’t let their bodies absorb the dynamics of the hop or drop but instead drive a bazillion pounds of pressure through their cranks and hub.

I do have one uni with a set of Odyssey cranks that I’m surprised how well they have held up (155mm on a 26” urban-trials set-up). However, when I ride this uni I am very mindful of the limits in regard to drops that this set-up will take (wheel and cranks). I know that many use the Kooka cranks but I think that A) they are of limited availability; B) I think that they only come in 170mm (too long for most trials applications).

I suggest springing for a splined set-up if you are planning on learning to do any significant drops or otherwise dynamic riding. Get the right tool to do the job. I think that the quality cotterless set-ups are great for freestyle, road and even some MUni but when you are talking about the very dynamic nature of trials, do yourself and your checkbook a favor and get it once and then forget it. Spend your time worrying, instead, about your riding and not your gear.

OK, that’s at least six-cents worth of unsolicited advice.

Tommy

I would advise saving up for either the KH20 or the Onza. They’re about the same strength, but the Onza is far superior because it is prettier.

Get this: Here! I have it and it holds up great. Its a great seup and its very cost effective.

Yeah, I had the Nimbus Trials and it held up pretty well- it’s great uni to have if you’re not sure you’ll stick at trials and you can upgrade it really easily!

Darn-it! Wouldn’t you know it! Just after bragging (above) about how well my cotterless crank/hub set-up is performing on my 26" urban assault vehicle the cranks have now come loose during a short, off-road ride. I have cursed myself!
Tommy

Haha! :slight_smile:

When I was new to trials, i bought a Nimbus Trials Uni. It was great, but as i started do larger drops, I bent countless numbers of cranks, and eventually the hub. I kept the uni, as the rest of it was fine (frame, rim etc). I then got a KH hub and crank set, got that put in, and it is great! I then upgraded the saddle (carbon firbre base air saddle) and powdercoated the frame. It is pritty much customised now, but with the same, if not more strength then the KH trials.

I’d say, get the Nimbus Trials if you went to do Trials, but if/when you progess, you will no doubt need a splined hub. Its just a case of buy it now, or later.
if you are pritty sure you will stay with trials, get a KH or Onza. If you just want to try trials, and are not sure if you are going to stay with it, get the Nimbus - you can always upgarde it later.

Joe,

Joe,

Great advice.

It sounds like you have great trials ride now – and most importantly, perfect for you.

One of the great things about unicycling is that, relatively, it is an inexpensive endeavor. So, in the process of learning, the cost of the hub and cranks is relatively small and in the end you have exactly what you want. Too, personally, I enjoy the planning and custom building of my own personal “perfect” unicycle.

Tommy

Tommy, sorry to hear about your ‘26" urban assault vehicle’ :stuck_out_tongue: That sucks! I hate it when stuff breaks. I’m used to it now, its just that I dont always have the money to get a replacement bit!

I gotta say, my Trials is my fav ride. Saying that, I also love my Muni.

I think customised/personalised rides are the way forward! :slight_smile:

Joe,

Joe,

I didn’t realize that this was YOUR trials ride! Gosh, I love it! The green is the bomb-digity (really good). When I first saw your post of your trials I had a bad case of uni-lust.

I hope that the cranks on my 26"er doesn’t make a new habit of coming loose. The Odyssey cranks already press on too far. The hub-axle sticks out past the crank and if the crank loosens and I have to continue to press it on even more this will create real, terminal problems. We’ll she how she holds up this afternoon.

I’ve discovered that my “favorite” uni is the one that I’m either currently riding, just rode, or about to ride. Choosing a favorite for me is like choosing a favorite of my children. They sometimes tick me off but I love them all.

Tommy

Glad you like it Tommy. I don’t like ‘uni-lust’, but I just can’t help it with my Trials! LOL

I have a Suzue on my Muni, which has last me a good 2 years, and has seen countless (like 10) pairs of cranks. The poor girl is starting to loose her threads though. She used to make a really bad creaking noise, but that has seemed to stop - for now anyways. The cranks on her, currently, are REALLY right. I don’t think I would be able to get them off without using machinery of some kind! The crank is still not tight though. It moves a tiny little bit up and down (so if you apply pressure down on the crank (going forwards) and then apply pressure upwards on the crank (going backwards) it moves. This is what is killing the hub. I think it is almost time for a new hub and crank set. She has done herself proud, and I would defiantly consider getting another cotterless hub, rather than a splined for my MUni. The unicycle.com hubs seem good.

Joe,

Yes, I agree that the Unicycle.Com hub looks great - as does the “Lightfoot” hub from Scott Bridgeman (Muniac.Com). However, what to do about the crank? I have yet to find a tapered, quality crank that will hold-up. I’d be willing to give the “Lightfoot” a try but the Kooka crank only come in 170 - IF you can find it at all. There are many good hub opinions but when you think of it systemically you have to enjoy the challenges of working on your uni.

Tommy

Oh man, that is one pretty uni!! I want to get mine powdercoated… But I don’t know where to go to do it.
Where do you go to do it?