Trials and Street Rider? Need a grabby and grindy plate?

For the past 6 or so months I have been doing trials with my grind plate made out of plastic cutting board. I sort of got used to it when doing pedal and crank grabs, but it has always been a little bit annoying (of course I need it though for grinds). Today I got the idea of cutting small ridges, lengthwise on the plate to see if it was any more grippy. Success! Because the ridges go lengthwise, grinding is not any more difficult, and it turned out to be a good amount grippier. Here are the steps to making the actual plate, and then for the ridges. The plate described below fits pedals that have open holes on the sides like these. They should also have open holes on the top.

  1. Buy a plastic cutting board or steal your mom’s;)

  2. Cut a rectangle about the size of your pedal out of it. I used a hacksaw, but there are probably some better tools for the job. Use whatever is handy, but be careful because this plastic is tough. Don’t let the tool slip on the plastic (it’s very easy to do this). After you cut the rectangle, cut two beams that will go along the width of your pedal. They should be able to fit through the holes on the sides. (See picture 005)

  3. Find some bolts and nuts. Make sure they are not too long, otherwise the bolts will make your pedals less grippy because they will get in the way of the pins. Put the rectangle of plastic board on the bottom of your pedal, and the beams along the inside like in this picture. Then put the bolts you chose along the side of the pedal to make sure it will reach though the plate and beam, with some room to spare so you can fit the nut on the end. (See picture 004)

  4. Take a drill and find a bit ( the part that you stick in the end of the drill, the part that goes around and around) that is the same diameter of your bolts. Keep your beams and plate on the pedal, and clamp everything down (or just hold it down if you don’t have clamps) and drill holes for four bolts, two on each beam like in this picture. (See picture 003)

  5. Now take a new bit. This one should be the size of the head of your bolt. with this, drill on top of the previous holes, on the bottom of the grind plate only (the part that will be hitting the rails and ledges). Drill as deep as you have to until when you put the bolt in all the way, the bolt head is level with the bottom of the grind plate. The bolt head should not be visible if you are looking at the grind plate from the side. (See picture 003)

  6. Congrats! This is as far as you street riders will have to go in order to have a functional grind plate that will slide well. Just tighten the nuts down (not too tight, or you can use a bit of loctite if you really want it snug in there). For us trials riders who still want to grind, take one more step for a more grippy grind plate.

  7. Take just the the part of the grind plate that will slide (the plate) and take your hacksaw out. Start sawing (in the middle) into it lengthwise (in the direction that you will be sliding) and cut about 3mm through it. Then move the blade over just a tiny bit (as little as possible) and cut again, about 3mm. Repeat until you have done this to the whole bottom side of the plate. Take a flathead screw driver now, and fit the thin part into one of the cuts. Push down and move it through the line a few times. Do this for each cut. (See picture 006)

  8. You’re done! Here is a picture of the final result (See picture 002 and picture 001)

PM me with any questions or just post them here. I’m happy to answer them.

grindplatenew 003.jpg

grindplatenew 005.jpg

grindplatenew 004.jpg

grindplatenew 001.jpg

grindplatenew 006.jpg

grindplatenew 002.jpg

Good write up, though I think the plastic is a little too fat.

I agree, but it was all I could find. If it was thinner it would be way lighter, but I don’t really care about weight.

The only problem i see with having a heavy plate like that is lopsided riding. Skinnies and even just casual riding would be a pain to keep yourself straight.

What do you think is the best width for a grind plate?

To the first part- The plate is not nearly heavy enough to through you off at all. The plastic stuff is actually a lot lighter than it looks anyway.

I would say the best width is almost as wide as the pedal. Maybe about 1/4" from the edge of the plate to the edge of the pedal on each side.

why cant you grind without the grind plate?

hoffman pedals can slide rails perfectly.

And break more easily.

Also, you’re not always gonna be grinding rails.

i was wondering if it world be better to conter sink the screws so they are no of the grinding surface? drill a whole to drop in the screws

Thats what I was talking about in step 5.

I’m gona remember this one for my fast dieing pedals

i use the same sort of idea for slide gloves for longboarding (skateboarding)

I attach cutting board cutouts to the palms of heavy duty work gloves.

cutting board works real well and would slide nice on wood or concrete

I have my chopping board, work begins tomorrow!

Cheers mate good write up.

Love how you think man :wink:

What material is your cutting board?

plastic… mine works great, did it ages ago. it also stops your pedal breaking pieces off whatever your jumping on as well.

most of the time :wink:

Wow, I must have been tired.

dude, that is the coolest place ever, luckily, i live next to a huge park with a similar course

Grind a lot on rough cement and it should thin it out a bit.

Because it sucks to take the pins out of one side. When you land unispins and stuff you’ll end up on the grinding side, and you have to flip it back over. If you have a grindplate on it, the weight at least flips it over so the side with pins is always perfectly postioned pointing up.

Plus, some people don’t want to mess up their nice pedal.

Up untill recently, I rode trials with a heavy Gusset pedal/metal grind plate on one side for about a year and a half. It never bothered me at all…