torker dx 2010-12

So I’ve been looking at this uni some and was wondering what info you guys could give me on it, preferably someone who has this model. I know that this is the new version of the Dx and that in-between 2010-2011 they went from 48-36 spokes. Could someone give me advantages and disadvantages? How long are the cranks? Can a 3.0" wide tire fit in the frame? If ne one owns one chime in please, pics would be nice as well. And I tryed using the search button but there isn’t really ne thing on this newer model,and if you haven’t seen the 2012 model you should check it out its pretty sick looking.

Sounds like you are talking about the Muni

Here’s the trials

They both still have 48 spokes. It still fits a 3" tire (the older model fit all 3"ers but the Gazolodi, I think the new one does if you can find a Gaz)

I’d prob spend a bit more and get the nimbus and upgrade to double hole cranks (gives you a larger selection too; 24, 26, 29).

Nimbus Muni:
-lighter (even if you upgrade to KH cranks)
-wider rim
-better saddle
-different crank sizes available at purchase
-stock cranks aren’t super strong, so it’d be good to limit drops to ~3ft.
-a bit more money: $310, $331 w/ KH cranks, $364 w/ double holes
-can upgrade cranks right away for less extra $

24" DX
-stock cranks are strong (152 mm)
-odball size bearings, so harder to replace (I hear ~ every 3 yrs if you ride a lot. I’ve never had any issues w/ my ‘06 DX, but I don’t ride hard or a lot of miles)
-theorically stronger wheel (I’ve never heard any problems w/ the Nimbus’ 36 spokes)
-a little cheaper - $305
-more $ to upgrade cranks right away

I bought the 2011 DX 24" (the woodgrain) in hopes of getting something relatively heavy but indestructible; it was a lot cheaper from an ebay seller than the Nimbus on UDC. It didn’t work out so well, though; I should post a review, but here are the highlights (or lowlights, rather):

  • either the crank bolts, or the hub threading for the bolts, was off spec; the bolts stripped at a really low torque (in 15+ years of bike mechanic’ing I’ve never stripped a crank bolt until now). I was able to get the cranks on using a longer pair of bolts I had lying around, but they worked their way loose, which ended up damaging the ISIS splines. The longer bolts looked half-stripped.

  • the wheel build was crappy; first time I went offroad a whole bunch of spokes went completely slack. I had to rebuild the wheel myself.

  • something was off-spec in the seat tube/seatpost/clamp; the ends of the clamp ran into each other before it was tight enough to hold the post in place. I had to use the dreaded beer can shim around the seat tube.

Maybe all this stuff was random bad luck, but at the very least the quality control is pretty bad at Torker.

I ended up rebuilding the wheel with a Nimbus hub and cranks, and it’s been fine, but next time I would just buy a Nimbus.