the weight of tubeless

Thinking about the tubeless (UST) conversion kit from They say you have to add new sealant liquid at intervals between 2 and 7 months long. Why do you have to add new sealant? Does it become doughy after a while and start sticking to the inside of the tyre? If you add sealant and it don’t get out from there, will that not make the wheel more and more heavy?

I haven’t found an answer to this on the web site and I thought someone here (besides Ken who probably is too busy to answer) might know.

I am currently working on this project to go tubeless. I will says it is not easy on my Coker! I got the sealant and the 36" strip but the tire will not inflate due to the air leaking to fast. The people at notube told me to try air compressor that can put more volume of air at once and not a gas station pump. My local bike shop who put notubes on other bikes, said they can do this for $5 charge.

As far as reason for putting sealant every 7-8 months, that is not what I was told. Unless you get many punctures losing alot of sealants, you don’t need to refill the sealant. Hope that answers your questions.

Wouldn’t the gas station pump be as effective as the one at the bike shop as long as there is an air compressor? A hand pump does not work according to what I have read. The tyre needs a forceful burst of air to fit correctly on the rim. That’s the reason you will have to carry a CO2 cartridge pump when going out for a ride with a tubeless wheel.

I have read in several places that sealant has to be added periodically, but i don’t know why. If you don’t have a leak one would expect the goo to stay inside the tyre. Therefore I was speculating whether it perhaps gets harder while ageing.

However, according to this site

the sealant will affect the lifetime of the tyre (if one has converted a normal tyre).

The web site says a Nokian (Gaz) has a “weaker bead” and is therefore not suitable for a tubless convesion. Can this be correct? Any hope of runing a Muni tire sans tube??

The tire recommendation page at is not clear about which Nokian tires are claimed to be bad. Nokian’s standard XC tires are different than the Gazzaloddi in construction. I wouldn’t necessarily read that to include the Gazzaloddi. Considering how much leverage the Gazz can take when trying to pry that tire onto a stubborn rim I think the bead is quite strong. Prying with metal tire levers hasn’t damaged the bead on any of my Gazz’s.

Side loads from pecking up a hill or doing a large side hop could possibly cause the sidewall to “burp” and let out a little burst of air. I have a hard time seeing tubeless working for aggressive muni, but I’ve never tried it and don’t know anyone who has so what do I know? I just have a lot of doubts that it would work for aggressive muni.

Ding ding ding. We have a winner!
The above information is correct.

I had a lot of burps on a bike, and found that I had to ride differently to prevent it.
There are MANY flat preventing solutions.

0.If you are getting flats, there are better solutions for M-uni.

  1. Converting to notubes is relatively expensive.
  2. If you’re looking to save weight, look elsewhere.

I recommend notubes for mountain bikes, and have it installed on my bike.
However, the thin tires require less liquid and I experienced waaay more flats on a bike than a uni.

I should add that increasing the air pressure prevents some of the burping, but we typically run very low pressure.

Re: the weight of tubeless

I’ve just burned through my first Coker Tubeless.
-The tyre has lasted slightly less than one year. I think I did the conversion in Sept or October last year.
-I’ve not had a single puncture

  • It’s done about 2000km. 1 x24hr, 1x 160km road ride, 1x 106km mountainbike race, and about half way across the Swiss Alps.
    -I’ve not had to add any extra sealant. When I changed my tyre, there was still about 2 scoops of sealant in there. I think my bike mechanic put three scoops in there when he fitted the tyre. He said he could have put less because it sealed up with much less sealant.
    -I’ve only had to pump up the tyre every few months. It doens’t lose air much.
  • It rides so nice- like you’re riding on air instead of rubber. The tyre is so much more supple. You can also put the pressure right down for off road traction.
    -It rocks!

I’m back to the tube system because I didn’t bring extra sealant to Europe and I dont’ have a high pressure compressor to do the initial setting of the tyre.

I’m really noticing going back to the Coker tube. The wheel feels really sluggish and hard to slow down on the downhills. On the uphill, it’s like the difference between riding a car and a tractor (especially up the St Beraud pass we rode the day before- it really sucked). It takes that extra oomph to push it along. On the flat it’s not so noticeable.

Hope that helps,

Tubeless Convert

The only problems with the Gazzalodi I’ve had were with the 24". Tiny bubbles formed on the sidewall, eventually popping. The Stans fluid would seal them but wouldn’t hold it very long. I have had no problems with the 26" (not even burping). Converting a Gazzalodi is a crapshoot, you could have problems. As for the uni/bike comparison, I would disregard. I went back to tubes on my bikes because of burping, every ride. Rider weight has everything to do with it.

Re: Re: the weight of tubeless

Ah, nothing beats first-hand experiences. Thanks for the quack! :wink:

One question only, does this mean you don’t need a high pressure pump (or compressor) when inflating the tyre?

If you’re having trouble inflating the tire, it’s probably cause the tire is sitting in the center lower area of the rim. If this is the case, try putting some foam tape in the center under the rubber rim strip. This will build it up to touch the beads on the tire. Get everything really soapy before inflating.