New Oregon Video with some trials and other cool stuff that highlights the Oregon. I liked the song but had NO IDEA what a coincidence it was until after I uploaded it! Listen at 2:18 and see if you can catch it! Amazing! Anyway, this awesome new Oregon MUni is proving to be quite versatile!
Terry, why don’t you post your videos in the video section.
That way people who want to watch videos can find it and those who don’t aren’t bothered.
No bother at all. RSU is pretty much the only uni forum I still post in and read anymore. Most of my activity has moved to FB. 
Thanks Bear! (Bernard). I was going to take the Oregon out for some MUni this morning, but it’s raining pretty good here. On the other hand, it might be fun to test the Larry tire in these conditions, and the trail I have in mind is clay-free, although it will still be quite muddy.
I have a feeling that the Oregon will perform very well in the rain and mud…but there’s only one way to find out! 
Any other Larry/Oregon owners have riding experience in conditions like this? I thought I read somewhere that the Larry is not a good “mud” tire. Not sure whether that would be because of the tread design or the tire’s width.
Sorry I was grumpy last night.
Tried the Larry in a bit of mud when I was riding with Nurse Ben in Tennessee and found I lacked fore-aft traction in slippery clay mud, it also packed up a bit. I didn’t have it slide out sideways though. A traditional knobby would have faired better but it was still fun, and it gave great confidence railing switchbacks with a bit of speed.
The Larry works great in muddy conditions, in fact that’s where I’m headed in about an hour!
Seriously, there is no such thing as a tire that works in mud. Mud being what it is, slippery and sticky, heavilly treaded tires simply gobble it up and get clogged, becoming mud induced slicks. The Larry cleans out nicely and when run at low pressures it will maintain superb grip in mud or snow.
We had monson like rains this morning, more than an inch/hour, now it’s so quiet and calm. Very unseasonabley warm weather, was actually getting ready to go skiing at 5:30am this morning when the rains moved in, so I checked the radar and it was a huge band of thunderstorms and they were moving toward the Smokies, which meant rain at the ski hill 
But hey, it’s Oregon season!!
Yesterday I changed out the frame for the new style that Terry’s Oregon is sporting. The changes in the frame and braking set up include the use of a bearing cap caliper mount which works great, also it looks like the “breather” holes were moved to reduce frame breaking issues (one frame broke in Europe), otherwise the dimensions, layout, and color scheme are unchanged 
Here’s my “revamped” Oregon, sporting Koxx 160mm low Q cranks, Nuke Proof nylon pedals with steel pins, a Shimano M series brake, a Thompson seat post, and can you dig that grab handle!! I’m about to make a bunch of grab handle mounts, send me a PM to get on the list, closing day is Monday morning ETS
No worries, and thanks of your mud-riding review!
Awesome setup there Ben! Loving the stem cap and the pedals too! Where did you find them?
The cap is a smiley face, I think UDC has them. I like smileys
The Nuke Proof Pedals (Electrons) are a Taiwan mfg pedal, labeled as Nuke Proof, which is a subsidiary of Chain Reaction Cycles (UK based):
You can order them with standard shipping, I paid $45-50 for each pair, yellow is sweet, but the blacks are pretty svelte too 
I have quite a few rides on my black set, mud, snow, dry, they have shown no problems, no pin wiggle or bearing issues. The pedals have an amazing TWO YEAR warranty 
In terms of cranks, I ran QuAx CroMo tubulars 170mm until recently, but decided to drop down to improve spin and to minimize side to side “sway” when cranking hard; I also moved to shorter cranks (150’s on 26/29) on my other unis, so 170mm felt really long.
The Koxx K1 160’s were an alternative to Ventures II 150’s which I considerd, but I feel like the Larry needs a little more leverage than my 29er. The Koxx street aluminum are low Q like the Ventures.
I’ve a quick question regarding the Oregon, UDC in the UK have a different picture to the US site.
www.unicycle.com/catalog/product/gallery/id/2179/image/5799/ -US
sorry about the links but I’m on my mobile. Does the brake mount make any difference? Or is more than obvious different with the frames?
The D Brake bearing hanger caliper Mount is now standard (the UDA UDC website). The frame mount didn’t work as planned, so the hanger was an easy fix.
Call your UDC to make sure that they aren’t sending you the old stock frame, just to be on the safe side, though I think that version is all gone.
Ben, do you know what UDC didn’t like about the welded on mount?
I like the welded on mount on my Triton, except for the fact that it uses a 160mm adaptor to use a 180mm disk, which is a minor complication in my opinion. I find the welded on mount more solid and convenient than the bearing adaptors.
I was wondering the same thing. It might have to do with an inherent weakness in the position and weld, and continual hard braking may cause it to crack over time. Also, the current version puts the caliper at about “3 O’clock”, which may be the best positioning for optimum braking, vs nearer the top with the frame mount, so this may also be why they changed it.
I did not have a good experience in mud with my Larry. That being said, I do not ride very fast and that may have been helpful. I would love to go test it in today’s muddy conditions but I am recovering from some injuries and probably will not be able to ride for several weeks.
Keep your videos here, Terry. I don’t go to the other forums too often.
I haven’t encountered much mud yet, but have a feeling it might have a tad less traction in the slippery stuff then, say, a duro, owing to the long, “dagger” shaped knobs. But riding it through streams has not been a problem and I agree that the faster you go, the better!
And regarding my last post about the welded brake mount on the first gen Oregon, there also might have been a “flex” issue causing some brake rubbing, and could have been why they switched to the bearing cap adapter mount.
I didn’t care for Larry in the mud. I had much better luck with a Duro 3.0, a Kenda Telonix 2.6, or a Maxxis Mobster 2.7. Most trails around here have a bit of camber to them. Taller knobs seem to bite better.
I’ve been reading some mtb forums about the best type tires for mud, and it seems the narrower and taller the tire, the better. If true, that would definitely be to the Oregon’s Disadvantage with its polar opposite tire width!
Here’s one quote:
[I]All in all narrower tires are best for mud as they prevent build-up around the frame, brakes, and fork. There are also some mud-specific tires out there that are designed to shed mud. We have had good luck with the Specialized Extreme Control and Extreme Master. Indeed they also have a new mud tire intelligently called just the Extreme S-Works that was supposedly designed for Bart Brentjens. I haven`t tried this one yet.
All of the Specialized mud tires are 26x1.7. Before we had the Specialized Extremes, we had good luck ruynning Continental and Ritchey tires that were available in 26x1.5 or 1.7 sizes. Luckily they weren`t mud-specific tread patterns, but the narrow size chemically hepled cut into the mud and keep the frame clear. [/I]
I don’t ride much in the mud anymore, but I used to get stuck mud riding pretty often back when I was racing MTB’s, and it all depended on the conditions.
Narrower tires can cut through goopy stuff to a firm bottom - if there is one. And if it’s sticky mud, you do get extra clearance that can keep your frame from packing up. I switched to narrow mud tires after I got passed a few times by people on skinny tires, still riding, while I carried my wheels-locked-up-in-mud bike.
Wider tires don’t sink in as much, which can be great if there is no bottom, or if the surface isn’t too soft. But if it’s just a thin layer of goop, you’ll go slip-sliding along. I ended up only using wide tires on snow.
I have no specific knowledge on this subject but I’ll throw out the obvious reason; the bearing-mount version works with existing frames! That seems, to me, to be reason enough to abandon a version that requires a specially equipped frame. If I had a custom bearing holder mount made, I could even run a disk on my old Wilder!
The original version had some alignment issues and required spacers, also the metal tab for the mount was steel, so the alumium tab added to the bearing cap is probably lighter.
Flex issues? Nah, neither mount has flex issues.
As John said, the mount also allows it to be used on all frame, so a neat trick.
For the tech minded folks, the mount is very easy to use, the hanger side of the bearing cap is tightened until flush with the frame side bearing holder, then the other side of the bearing cap is used to snug up the cap. Pretty sweet trick
I rode last night in the mud, it was a slog and slip n’ slide fest, three hours in the woods, wild stuff, traction was better on the uni than off. I could see having a different tire, one without such a solid centerline, so I’m looking at getting somethng more treaded, review to follow
