I like how the nimbus frame looks, how it angles out and down and then the side pieces go over it a little.
Mmm less expensive Ti frame… Yummy… I’ve got some frame ideas in my head I’ll sketch some out too, Not sure how “structurally sound” my frame ideas would be but I’ll sketch some up.
That’s a good idea it would look different and be stronger:D
Some miscellaneous thoughts on the subject:
- In addition to welding, you need a way to make or attach bearing mounts, seat posts, etc. IE, machining capabilities, and/or some really accurage jigs or other arrangements for getting geometry just so-so.
- A lot of aluminum can be welded, but the welded portions will be much weaker near the weld as the effects of heat treating are lost in those areas. Solution is to heat-treat the whole thing after welding.
- In some cases, you can obtain raw metal in odd sizes and small quanitites, but the unit cost may be much higher than what a manufacturer would pay for it. For example, you can buy heat-treated finished wrenches cheaper than you can buy the tool steel to make them out of. So that may make it difficult to compete on cost.
I love the schwinn style frames, but the don’t make one that will fit an ISIS hub. I buy one if it existed.
Where in Texas? I live in Allen, by Dallas.
It seems that Miyata is no longer making Ti frames now either, so this is definitely a good thing. I would be interested in both a freestyle frame and a 36er frame.
For the freestyle I would want it to be quite similar to the signature but with a bit more tire clearance.
For the 36er frame, I just want a light and rigid design, actually now that I think about it, I want to wait until Ken has designed a proper V frame for the 36er because I agree with him that a V is a much better design for cokers.
O and definitely the first priority would be to get some bearing caps made and tested.
If I am going to be spending a lot of money on a frame though, I’m going to want something that is well tested, Sponge did everything right as far as I’m concerned, fully tested everything, great choice of manufacturer and good warranty.
These are the things that will really get me to go out and buy a frame, not just fancy metals and pretty designs.
Thanks for the all the input and yes, I understand that testing will be a HUGE part of the process. Right now I’m trying to get an idea of how many people would actually be interested in buying these products. However, it seem’s as though that there is alot of interest so far, and that’s a start.
Is anyone at all interested in the seatpost’s I mentioned? Dual-gusseted seatpost’s sold here in America! I imagine we’d make it in 2 sizes, 27.2 and 25.4.
Keep the ideas coming and any more advice/input/help would be appreciated
I would make it shaped more like a kh frame and less like a triton frame.
dual gusseted seat posts would be awesome for sure!
built in seat post clamp…like the really light bmx frames…heres one of the lightest frames available for dirt jumping in bmx
edit: i do know that unis would need stranger seat tubes…btu a built in clamp should still work
Is there a particular benifit using this desing or is it just easier for flatland? Keep in mind were not limited to just 1 frame design
I’ll look into that. Do you have a more detailed picture of what your talking about?
It’s easier for flatland.
I also have another idea. I notice that the triton frame is really thick. This means that there is unnecessary weight. The frame should be strong in the places where it needs it (like the crown, neck and all the welds), and very light in the places where it doesn’t need it (like the sides, I mean, who honestly brakes those?)
Just take advantage of the strength of the metal and instead of simply making it 10 times stronger than an alu frame, make it twice as strong and twice as light.
Edit: some ti ISIS cranks would be nice. Make it about as strong as Moments, but way lighter. Make sure it is available in 125 too… And is flatland friendly.
I take it your talking about titanium?
I’m glad you guys are giving your input on this, just let me know if you would prefer an aluminum or ti frame, maybe even both? I know for a fact though that the market for pretty much all metals is skyrocketing right now. So depending on the deal he get’s, the ti frame may or may not cost alot.
This is all mearly speculation though, as I do not have a design so I can’t calculate cost for materials and any other unforseen costs of production. Any ideas on bearing holders? I know everyone prefers machined but that may or may not be an option, unless you wish we pass the costs on to you.
I really doubt we’ll be looking into machining our own cranks. I mean I know of another guy who has the equipment to do that stuff but it’s really not worth it to me to pursue that, sorry.
Were going to be stricly seatposts and hopefully frames:)
titanium all the way. The KH frame is pretty much the best an alu frame can be. (Well, the weld could be stronger I guess, but hes good at replacing that. Shapewise and lightwise it is perfect.).
Yeah but what about price wise? You really like paying that much for an aluminum frame?
That is a shame. For Tech Street, the most important part of the Uni to be light is in the wheel, and cranks are probably the part that needs most improvement in lightness. A hub would be nice too. I’m not sure I would spend money on a ti frame, but if I could get light and strong ti cranks (with good shape and size), I would definitely get them.