The Schlumpf hat club

Hey, I joined the Schlumpf hat club too! I spent about 30 minutes riding my KH29G (any better ideas for shorthand?) tonight. Shifting was surprisingly easy. I guess all my trials and freestyle practice is paying off. I’ll take it on a “real” ride soon.

schlumpf.jpg

One of us, one of us!

What are the details on your new KH29Guni set up?

I should mention too that modifying the bearing cups on my older KH29 frame was pretty straight forward. I used a dremel with a grinding bit on the frame side, and I cheated on the cup side by swapping them with the newer style ones from my KH20.

Also, I built my first wheel! :slight_smile: 280 mm straight 14 guage spokes, just like everyone else. Tuned to G#.

Mostly stock KH stuff. WTB Exiwolf 2.3" tire. I have a new Schwalbe Big Apple I haven’t tried too. Magura brake. A shiny new orange KH freeride saddle.

Nice.

I need to find a way of fitting a brake on my guni with my gb4 bars. I am thinking it will only work with a shim in the frame to fit a 25.4mm seat post so I can use a bar end to put the brake lever in the proper position. The miyata rail adapter doesnt work, nor will a KH adapter b/c the position intereferes with the gb4 bars.

My guni is about 17 pounds due to the heavy components I am using, muni hub, moment cranks, snafus, gb4, rail adapter.

The Big Apple is nice, it has been great on the road/bike trails, and XC trails (if the ground is mostly dry).

Make sure you dont use the 6mm hex tool that Florian ships with the hub, I found there was too much play when tightening the bolts with that tool and it led to almost rounding out the custom bolts. I used a torque wrench to torque the bolts to 25 foot pounds and the hex adapter bit I used fit much better in the bolts and the cranks seem to be staying on a lot better.

Interesting. I didn’t notice any play with the allen tool when I assembled it. I’ll have to get an allen bit–I think I have a torque wrench collecting dust somewhere.

Yeah, I tried several hex tools and they all had slight play except the high quality steel hex adapter bit I bought. My right crank was coming loose a lot, so I was tightening the bolt a lot and the hex wrench started making some grooves in the bolts. I was uneasy with it so I ordered some spares from Florian.

I’ve been keeping a bit quiet about this while testing it out, but if you like the big apple, I recommend the Marathon Supreme. 300g lighter, 2" wide.

Also, Schwalbe inner tube 19a, a lightweight wide 29er inner tube, weighs 140g, compared to 250 for the standard 29er tubes.

The two of those make a big difference to the wheel weight even with the heavy KH rim (reduces the rim + tyre + tube weight by 20%). Very noticeable.

Joe

I will also save half a pound by switching from the KH moments to Qu-Ax ISIS, which I am sure will be very noticeable as well. I wonder if having cranks with no q-factor is bad though when using a schlumpf…might have more of a chance of accidentally hitting a button…

That is a pretty big weight difference.

They are cheap, too. Only 24 bucks. If you break them no big deal.

Cool! I can’t wait to get mine :), but I’m still in vietnam.

It’ll probably take me a while to get it built.
corbin

I went on a short “real” ride during lunch today. Probably 10-12 miles and 700-800 feet climbing. Here are some thoughts:

  1. The geared up mode is a bit scary, especially on steep downhills.

  2. Shifting isn’t as easy with the pedals in the 127 mm crank hole position. I think my shoe heels line up nicely in 152 mode, but not so much with shorter cranks. So, I’m trying to think of a good way to attach a rigid plate on the side of my shoe to make shifting easier.

  3. The ride does feel more bike-ish–higher speeds and lower cadences. I can really mash down on the pedals on slight uphills like I could with a bike.

  4. 1:1 gear feels just plain goofy after being geared up.

  5. I don’t think I’d like a geared 36er around here because just plain flat roads are practically nonexistent.

Schlumpf sells something along these lines for his bike systems, I seem to remember him mentioning that it would be possible to fit one to his unicycle hubs. Might be worth looking in to rather than starting from scratch.

I think it’s the Schlumpf Easy-shifters that you’re thinking of that give that extra bit of leverage. However, they’re only for the 165mm or 170mm (something like that anyway) length cranks.

I had 150s on my Schlumpf until recently and didn’t think that changing to 125s was going to work well, however it didn’t take that long to get used to. After a few goes, even with size 9 shoes, it works well.

STM

My shoes say UK size 9.5, so maybe I just need to practice. Where do you position your foot on the pedal? I’m usually on the balls of my feet when I’m on the road or climbing–maybe shifting my feet forward a bit would help.

I got a shipping notice from UDC in my email box today. I think it’s my new hat. (built into a 36 inch Stealth Pro rim). Now I just need a frame!

That’s going to be pretty darn fast. Don’t forget to report your experiences with it once you get it. :slight_smile:

Just use your ankles/side of shoe. I simply roll my ankle/side of foot inwards and it is very easy to shift. This method is actually harder with the 150s, so I find it easier to shift with 125s.

what is your plan for a frame?

corbin