1, Shows the original housing for the internal rotating block and the new narrowed rotational block moved forward into its new position.
2&3, Show the new toothed saddle to post grip, the new reduced rotational block and the hex saddle securing bolt.
4, The toothed saddle to post grip before I thinned it with a hacksaw. I took this from a spare saddle bar which I had previously bought for my 36" Night Rider uni.
5,The saddle with the new rotational block housing carved out.
6,The bolt and rotational block being put into new housing groove.
7,The old toothed grip to the right and the new toothed grip on the left of the photo.
8, The new forward toothed grip mechanism securing the seat to the toothed seat post
Wherever you put the saddle, the only way to ride the uni is with your centre of mass in the correct position over the wheel. Therefore, if you move the saddle back relative to the frame, you need to tilt the frame forward to get your centre of mass into the right position. There is no change except for the tiny difference made by the weight of the frame being in a different place.
However, if you put bars on in such a way that your torso is tilted forwards, your centre of mass moves forwards and therefore your saddle ends up further back than would otherwise be the case.
This has two potential advantages:
Your legs and core muscles are nearer to the ideal pedalling position, as per a conventional road bike.
You are more aerodynamic.
So, if you change the position of the saddle alone there are no real difference.
However, if you add long bars you move the effective position of the saddle backwards. Of course, you then need to adjust the tilt of the saddle (nose down a bit) to compensate for the new position.
From a strength point of view, I’d rather have the saddle fitted to a normal seat post in the normal way, and use a long handle bar extension.
However, from a pleasure point of view, the more my uni resembles a bike, the less I enjoy it. I like sitting more or less upright on a uni. Personal preference.
The new adjusted set up is not as strong as the Zero in its original state so I might reinforce it as suggested by UniDreamerFR.
Notice that I left the original toothed (saddle to post) grip, in place. I didn’t want to compromise the saddle structure, too much by removing it.
People keep telling me that the lateral saddle position is not relevant but the uni feels more stable with the saddle moved back. I would like to see other riders experiment with this idea. I’m going to get an aluminium beam made which will afford an even longer reach.
Having the saddle mounted in it’s traditional position on the post would require a longer T-bar than the current KH t-bar to achieve such a long reach.
I agree with you that the upright posture is more fun, but only on shorter journeys in my opinion.
The bike position has it’s advantages but it is a bit too “down to business” in some ways.
I had been thinking about the range of possible seatpost positions - instead of the post under the seat, with the handlebars sticking out in front, you could have the post connected to the handlebars, with the seat on a long extension backwards. It would be like the old softride bikes. Maximum seat flex!
I think it could work, though I’m not sure what would happen when you stood up… maybe you would need some front-of-the-saddle handle to hold when standing.
You have the T bar mounted to the saddle in the standard place, so the distance between the saddle and the bars is exactly the same however the seatpost attaches to the saddle.
Ah! Aracer. If only you would read more slowly.
I am referring to a beam unicycle which would afford an even longer reach than the KH t-bar set up
@ Mr impossible
I see something resembling a flexi beam. Now there’s an idea.
A Flexibeam Uni.
I hope this gets Roger thinking.
The beam could have a saddle that slides back/forward to allow the optimum leg angle referred to by Mikefule
Interesting take on the T style unicycle. Unicyclists are geeks and I love it. Similar things have been suggested before.
Thanks for the encouragement.
That’s a fantastic thread by Ken. With his experience he knows what he is talking about.
I have experimented with a T frame set up which was great (see the ‘Unibokk long rider’ thread) . It is listed at the bottom of this page. But the beam I used was made from wood and didn’t last.
The Night rider frame is ideal for a T frame/beam because it’s legs are skinny and taper in nicely at the crown so there’s no leg rub. Having said that I had no leg rub problems with the Nimbus 29" frame either. So it’s all good
The V frame is interesting but the T frame is far better looking in my opinion.